can you tell gear ratio by vin number 1996 dodge dakota v8 4x4 5 speed

 

Get your build sheet from Dodge; it should show the factory rear gear ratio.

Or climb under there and check the tag(s).

There SHOULD be a label on one of the tubes; but that may be at best mud and dust covered, and may have come off.

There should also be a metal tag under one of the cover bolts.

Last but not least, take the height of the tire; multiply by pi; divide that into how long a mile is in the same units (i.e., in feet or inches). That's how many revolutions the tire will make in a mile. Now, at 60MPH with OD off, see what your engine RPM is.

The ratio between the two will be your gear ratio (since 3rd is 1:1); there will be some discrepancy due to rounding errors, but if it figures out to be a 3.59 and the factory is a 3.55, well ... there you are!

RwP

 

no tag is missing a few it bangs bad build sheet from Dodge ?

 

Huh?

There words missing.

The GIST of it is that you're asking about the build sheet?

Go here: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...lookup-322123/

Follow the instructions (which includes a link to the Dodge site, with instructions).

When you get your build sheet, see which gear set it claims you have.

RwP

 

thanks gear ratio 3.21 look like it is hard to find a used rear end

 

Is your truck 2WD or 4WD? If 2WD, you can always swap in a different ratio easily; just be sure to grab the drive gear in the transmission (if it has one!) to keep the speedometer accurate. (The drive gear in the rear end should run off the axles not the driveshaft; this means you can keep that gear with the new rear end.)

If 4WD, since the front has to match also, it's a bit more difficult.

OTOH, check what local drive train shops charge; a local shop will charge me $800 to install a TracLoc and rebuild the rear end complete (not counting brakes; that's my job!) or $400 if they don't go TracLoc. (Since the TracLoc is about $390 or so from Summit, that's not a bad deal IMO.) That would include all new bearings and seals, BTW.

And if 2WD, consider shifting the rear ratio a bit. Maybe stiffer if you do mostly in town driving (3.55 or so; whatever is accurate in the 3.5 range for a 8.25), or a bit longer legged if you're mostly highway driving (my truck has a 2.94, but it's also a 3 speed, no overdrive. Le sigh.)

RwP

 

should also be a sticker on the under side of the hood with paint code, trans model, axle ratio etc