Is there a good synthetic for a 93 5.2
It's got awesome power and I want to preserve it(yeah keep my foot out of it)
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IMO going to Walmart and buying a 5qt. jug of Mobil 1 is the best you can do. FWIW Corvette, BMW, and I think Viper's all used this for factory fills.
But even more important then brand is regular, on time, changes..... |
Ok
I'm try to f in gure this out
Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
(Post 3434105)
IMO going to Walmart and buying a 5qt. jug of Mobil 1 is the best you can do. FWIW Corvette, BMW, and I think Viper's all used this for factory fills.
But even more important then brand is regular, on time, changes..... |
Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
(Post 3434105)
IMO going to Walmart and buying a 5qt. jug of Mobil 1 is the best you can do. FWIW Corvette, BMW, and I think Viper's all used this for factory fills.
But even more important then brand is regular, on time, changes.....
Originally Posted by Luv my 5.2
(Post 3434106)
I'm try to f in gure this out
Cheap oil changed regularly and on time beats a high end synthetic left to bake with a filter that has time-welded itself to the block ... (The good stuff changed regularly and on time is even better, natch!) I'm running Rotella T6 in my 1988 now - I just turned 3,000 on this oil/filter change, used a 5 quart to do the oil/filter change (not the whole thing at first!), topped off with the last of that, then added a quart, and it's at FULL now. So win win for me so far. RwP |
I listen well
Thanks. Make alot of sense
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Change your coolant too if you can't remember when it was last changed.
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Just bought it 2 days ago. The last 5.2 I had was in a 78 model fury. It was a gas drinker this is a Dakota le. More important is the headlights won't come on and I'm bout to run an auxiliary switch. I'm just not sure about the wire quality??
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Originally Posted by Luv my 5.2
(Post 3434172)
Just bought it 2 days ago. The last 5.2 I had was in a 78 model fury. It was a gas drinker this is a Dakota le. More important is the headlights won't come on and I'm bout to run an auxiliary switch. I'm just not sure about the wire quality??
Just ... Don't. A headlight switch will run you not much more than replacing it; and even if you go connector AND switch, you can pick both up for around $13 for the switch and as low as $7 for the connector at RockAuto.COM . (Plus shipping) Or if you or a family member or close friend is a Prime subscriber, check the part numbers from RockAuto on Amazon and get the parts possibly no shipping and 2 day delivery. And fix it right. (Also, be sure to solder the connectors. Crimps won't last with the factory wiring because there's just too much current through there.) As a 1992, I'll lay odds it's got the Aero headlights, using either the 9004 or the 9007 bulb. Clean the headlights well (they should be clear outside, fluted but clear inside). Use a good quality bright bulb (note: Brighter the bulb, shorter the life. Oh, well.) And add a quality relay harness (I usually link to the Putco on Amazon - - but that's more to identify what you're looking for.) But don't just slash and destroy it! Fix it, and fix it right. RwP |
What do you mean relay harness. I'm fix to check for the parts code
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Originally Posted by Luv my 5.2
(Post 3434177)
What do you mean relay harness. I'm fix to check for the parts code
What it does, is use the voltage from the headlight switch to toggle a relay; that relay uses bigger wiring (bigger wire == lower resistance == less voltage drop) over an overall shorter length (shorter length == lower resistance == less voltage drop) and since it pulls so little current through the headlight switch, it avoids the heating and thermal corrosion problems that the factory design has. (That's not unique to Dodges, BTW ... I relayed the front of my 1991 Cougar also, and even did the same to my 2000 Malibu I used to own, all for the same purpose.) RwP |
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