95 Dakota 2WD - Remove Upper Control Arm
Hello,
By upper control arm bushings are rotten and I need to replace them to pass inspection.
What's the procedure to remove the upper control arm? I looked in the service manual and they ask for a special tool for the spring. Anyone done this before without the tool?
Thanks
By upper control arm bushings are rotten and I need to replace them to pass inspection.
What's the procedure to remove the upper control arm? I looked in the service manual and they ask for a special tool for the spring. Anyone done this before without the tool?
Thanks
The "special tool" is a spring compressor.
A generic compressor can be used by removing the shock and going up inside the shock mount instead. It can't be a Macpherson Strut compressor, though; this spring is a LOT stouter than those are ready to handle!
RwP
A generic compressor can be used by removing the shock and going up inside the shock mount instead. It can't be a Macpherson Strut compressor, though; this spring is a LOT stouter than those are ready to handle!
RwP
Yeah when I did it the rear springs were VERY strong. I used a spring compressor checked out from the auto parts store, and the spring just about busted it to pieces. And the one I borrowed was a good strong one, not the lighter kind. I only did one side because it was so seriously strong a spring. Mine is a longbed, but I doubt the springs are any different but who knows. I would not do another unless I had the seriously nice spring compressors meant for trucks. I saw them for sale around $100, but only replaced those bushings in one side at the rear. On the front it is a much different story of course. 1992 V8 Longbed
I may have missed something, but didn't OP say UPPER control arm bushings?
You don't need any tool for the spring, other than a floor jack. The shock and sway bar end links are both connected to the Lower Control Arm and will keep it in place enough to prevent the coil spring from going anywhere. If both of those are disconnected for some reason (I'd leave them both connected to be safe though) and you remove the upper control arm, you're going to be in trouble. Air chisel and cut-off wheel are a must for removing the bushings from the upper control arm itself, once its off the truck.
I usually jack the lower arm up a bit though to take pressure off of the nut on the upper ball joint when removing, and to to make the stud goes in far enough so you can start the nut when you're re-installing the arm, after putting bushings in. Newest Dakota I have is a 94, but I'm pretty sure front suspension setup is the same through 96.
You don't need any tool for the spring, other than a floor jack. The shock and sway bar end links are both connected to the Lower Control Arm and will keep it in place enough to prevent the coil spring from going anywhere. If both of those are disconnected for some reason (I'd leave them both connected to be safe though) and you remove the upper control arm, you're going to be in trouble. Air chisel and cut-off wheel are a must for removing the bushings from the upper control arm itself, once its off the truck.
I usually jack the lower arm up a bit though to take pressure off of the nut on the upper ball joint when removing, and to to make the stud goes in far enough so you can start the nut when you're re-installing the arm, after putting bushings in. Newest Dakota I have is a 94, but I'm pretty sure front suspension setup is the same through 96.
Yeah when I did it the rear springs were VERY strong. I used a spring compressor checked out from the auto parts store, and the spring just about busted it to pieces. And the one I borrowed was a good strong one, not the lighter kind. I only did one side because it was so seriously strong a spring. Mine is a longbed, but I doubt the springs are any different but who knows. I would not do another unless I had the seriously nice spring compressors meant for trucks. I saw them for sale around $100, but only replaced those bushings in one side at the rear. On the front it is a much different story of course. 1992 V8 Longbed
How did you get a spring compressor for the LEAF springs?
RwP
I may have missed something, but didn't OP say UPPER control arm bushings?
You don't need any tool for the spring, other than a floor jack. The shock and sway bar end links are both connected to the Lower Control Arm and will keep it in place enough to prevent the coil spring from going anywhere. If both of those are disconnected for some reason (I'd leave them both connected to be safe though) and you remove the upper control arm, you're going to be in trouble. Air chisel and cut-off wheel are a must for removing the bushings from the upper control arm itself, once its off the truck.
I usually jack the lower arm up a bit though to take pressure off of the nut on the upper ball joint when removing, and to to make the stud goes in far enough so you can start the nut when you're re-installing the arm, after putting bushings in. Newest Dakota I have is a 94, but I'm pretty sure front suspension setup is the same through 96.
You don't need any tool for the spring, other than a floor jack. The shock and sway bar end links are both connected to the Lower Control Arm and will keep it in place enough to prevent the coil spring from going anywhere. If both of those are disconnected for some reason (I'd leave them both connected to be safe though) and you remove the upper control arm, you're going to be in trouble. Air chisel and cut-off wheel are a must for removing the bushings from the upper control arm itself, once its off the truck.
I usually jack the lower arm up a bit though to take pressure off of the nut on the upper ball joint when removing, and to to make the stud goes in far enough so you can start the nut when you're re-installing the arm, after putting bushings in. Newest Dakota I have is a 94, but I'm pretty sure front suspension setup is the same through 96.
I was thinking of a bushing press kit to press it out. Any issues with this?
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You're understanding it correctly. Although if you're doing bushings, and are doing the lower also ...
I don't know about the bearing press kit - I burned out mine since I was going poly. Since then I've found out about the drill bit trick ( here's an example YouTube video:
)
I'd do that, then if doing rubber back in, chisel out the housing (use a chisel to collapse it partway so it basically falls out).
If you can work the bushing press kit around the control arm shaft, go for it. I wasn't able to figure out how to do that, so I used a sledge and the nuts on the control arm shaft.
RwP
I don't know about the bearing press kit - I burned out mine since I was going poly. Since then I've found out about the drill bit trick ( here's an example YouTube video:
I'd do that, then if doing rubber back in, chisel out the housing (use a chisel to collapse it partway so it basically falls out).
If you can work the bushing press kit around the control arm shaft, go for it. I wasn't able to figure out how to do that, so I used a sledge and the nuts on the control arm shaft.
RwP


