1st Gen Dakota Tech 1987 - 1996 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 1st Gen Dakota.

Crank no start again.

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Old Jan 27, 2021 | 11:00 PM
  #11  
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Look up the part number (hint: RockAuto's listings usually HAVE the original part number!) and then Google for it?

Walk to the dealership (or drive down there) and lay down your money?

Not hard at all, really.

RwP
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 02:02 AM
  #12  
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Dealership near me had it for me in 5 business days.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2021 | 08:05 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Shaderabbit
Dealership near me had it for me in 5 business days.
500 for ecm at dealership. Thrue a cps at it. Nothing shop says ecm cause check engine light doesn't come on when cranking. Thoughts?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2021 | 08:24 PM
  #14  
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Try a used one. You can buy a lot of used ones for $500. They're plug and play as long as you get a similar model (transmission/engine size) /year, no programming needed.
 

Last edited by Shaderabbit; Feb 3, 2021 at 08:29 PM.
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Old Feb 3, 2021 | 09:30 PM
  #15  
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Shop is guessing.

But.

If you wish to try the ECU without at least checking ALL the 12V feeds and the sensor feeds to it ...

Well, what year? Which motor, which transmission, federal or california or high attitude?

But.

RockAuto shows, for instance, a 1993 5.2 with the 4 speed automatic for $172 with $100 core.

Also, if you have the part number tag still on your ECU (most have fallen off by now, so don't expect that!), you can Google for that part number.

Nothing else, hit up car-part.com and look for it there. For my 1988 as an example, I see them sorted by price from $200 down to $45 before they're "Call for quote".

(Sort by distance first, so it's close to you so you can drive over and pick it up.)

But.

I'd be checking 12V into the ECU, check continuity of the wiring to the connector, and it could even be the contacts sprung on the connector causing problems. One guy here ended up replacing his 60 pin connector and fixed his intermittent to hard no-start no-run errors.

RwP
 
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Old Feb 3, 2021 | 09:34 PM
  #16  
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OK. I dug back in past posts to find it's a 1991 (hint: You want help? INCLUDE THIS INFORMATION EVERY POST. It smacks of laziness to ignore giving enough info that others can help you - We have NO ****ing idea what you have from now until tomorrow without working on it!)

RockAuto shows in stock one for California emissions , $171 with a $60 core.

car-part.com only shows eight, but the pre-priced two are $100 and $150.

IF you are going to buy one, I'd start there.

RwP
 
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Old Feb 8, 2021 | 01:22 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by RalphP
OK. I dug back in past posts to find it's a 1991 (hint: You want help? INCLUDE THIS INFORMATION EVERY POST. It smacks of laziness to ignore giving enough info that others can help you - We have NO ****ing idea what you have from now until tomorrow without working on it!)

RockAuto shows in stock one for California emissions , $171 with a $60 core.

car-part.com only shows eight, but the pre-priced two are $100 and $150.

IF you are going to buy one, I'd start there.

RwP
thank you. i had my unmolested factory donor truck, interior harnes in a bin at the shop. came back after the weekend and it was submerged. i planned on diomond filing and cleaning, but worried the wires have been soaked through.
i also found on rock autp an ignition relay. of which happens to be part of my broken fuse holder in the cab, as well as an ignition ballast? any idea where this ballast cpould be?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2021 | 06:14 PM
  #18  
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We have no ballast resistors on our trucks; that was for older ignition systems.

Unless it's something else; do you have a link to the part?

RwP
 
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