Not his; that's the Ferrari design.

RwP

 

Same place, same method, different guy.

 

Back end of the key cylinder came apart. Sounds like it messed up the ignition switch too. Both parts need to be replaced. He needs to chase down the key cylinder and he can use the Borg Warner ignition switch I had in my stash. Any luck and I’ll get it back by the end of the day.

 

They got the new parts in and she fired right up but somehow it/they fried the battery. No idea how that happened. BTW, it fired right up after trying a different battery that was good. Maybe one of you brilliant electronic guys can surmise how my battery got roached. I guess I'm not too upset about it because the battery turns 3 years old next month and it's only a silver and not a gold (they didn't have gold in stock when I bought it so I settled for the silver). So 3 years is about what I can reasonably expect especially since it got drained down pretty good more than a few times over its life. Gonna head to WallyWorld and get their EverStart Maxx. I've heard for awhile now that Wally World's batteries are at least as good as any other battery for about $40 less. Got one in the wife's car. No problems so far.


I like this guy. I've watched a number of his reviews.

 

Most batteries are made by Deka if they're US made.

Duracell AGMs are; which is why I have a Duracell I bought at Sam's Club in the Dakota.

WallyWorld's are also good batteries, from what I understand; I just liked the Duracell name

Would have LOVED an Energizer ... "It keeps going, and going, and going, and ..."

Don't know about the old one unless it just died.

Sorry to hear about the switch; glad it was easily fixed.

RwP

 

Most of the batteries the guy tested in that review I posted were made by Johnson Controls. A giant battery producer and a kind of Irish-American company. Turns out Johnson Controls sold their battery business to a Canadian company a couple years ago. So are they the same quality battery since the Canucks bought them?

I’m gonna find out in the next few years.

 

I’m just guessing but that battery got fried when he disassembled that ignition. That begs the question…why didn’t he disconnect the battery before taking that ignition apart?

Now, I try to be fair. One, he probably wasn’t expecting that key cylinder to be in pieces. Two, neither would I. Three, I would not have disconnected the battery either. Especially if you want to take readings.

Based on this, I cannot fault him for frying the battery. Of course, I’m just speculating here.

 

Ralph, I lost a little tranny fluid changing out my NSS. I had a little Castrol Transmax ATF+4 and got the level up to the very bottom of the "SAFE" zone. I need to get another bottle.

Just curious...what's a good tranny fluid for my 46RH/A518 in your opinion? Seems the numbers and types have drastically changed since 1993. Kinda like brake fluid, refrigerant, and anti freeze. So just want to make sure I'm compatible.

 

Any legit ATF+4.

Even WallyWorld SuperTech is good'nuff.

I just buy genuine Mopar for the same off Prime and eBay.

But truly, just find a brand you like for ATF+4.

RwP

 

Got my truck back yesterday morning. I have two keys now. One for the ignition, one for the doors. I thought ignition key cylinders could be re-coded to accept my old key. Guess not.

It would be nice to have one key work on all keyways but I have to admit there are many worse things in life.

And on another note, the wife’s Jeep is still in the hospital so my Dakota projects remain on hold.

Working on cars is like visiting the dentist for the first time in 10 years. Instead of 7 cavities, 3 crowns, 2 root canals, and an implant, it’s 4 struts, 4 brakes, 4 wheel bearings, 2 tie rods, 2 control arms, a spindle, an axle, and a partridge in a pear tree.