All.
This vehicle ran good before being barn stored when it broke a brake line. It sat for a number of years (~3) till I got around to replacing the lines. As you can imagine this is not my main vehicle or main truck.

The vehicle after a gas drain and a refill (Vacuum pump process - filler neck removed) with new does not want to start. I have fuel pump activity at the flip of the key. There is pressure in the lines and throttle body is getting gas (confirmed).

What I am not getting is spark. (confirmed)

The coil is new. The old and the new both generate spark when tested outside of the vehicle. Left the new coil in place.

I did a ignition tune up, after it did not start, as during the troubleshooting the distributor rotor and cap was found to be a absolute mess. - rotor metal was separating from the plastic rotor body.

I have the Dodge factory manual for this vehicle...somewhere I also have a old Haynes for it as well.

I am getting 8V at the distributor from the SMEC. I have a AC Wave form from the distributor. (pickup coil). Not sure what to expect AC Voltage wise from the pickup? (Anyone know?)

I have 12 volts coming to the SMEC.

I am not sure what the ignition drive value coming from the SMEC should put out. (I am not seeing 12V seems much lower (wire pulled from the coil during measurement - is usually like 2-4 volt range - commonly 2.5 Volts).
Is this expected to fluctuate? I always thought it was a stable higher value (12v?) but its been a number of years since I troubleshot a ignition system.

I had my daughter try to start it after reseating the ASD Relay and both the SMEC and ECM connector. I did this after a WD-40 electrical contact cleaner and a toothbrush cleaning of the pins. It started and would run for a few moments and then it would die out. I was not able to give it the pedal at all - just stumbles and dies.

After bit of attempts to keep it running it went out (no start again) and the ASD Relay and the Carb Choke mechanism at that time started clicking repeatedly until I turned the key off. The contacts were clean except for maybe 2-3 pins which has light oxidation.

I am thinking of replacing the ASD Relay as it appears to be original and the metal body (back of it not the plastic box) has some serious corrosion which I tried to clean up with a wire wheel but the serious pitting remains, (the truck is not rusty), and it appears the ASD Relay is not a expensive item.

Any Ideas, thoughts on the ASD Relay, or what to look further into?

Thanks everyone,
Chris

 

Relays are cheap

 

Agreed.

Looks like that and another projects Pedal Switch is going to cost me $16 from RockAuto and hey I get a cool magnet to put on my tool chest. LOL!

Thanks
Chris

 

You ought to be able to get a relay from any auto parts store.

 

Nice Collection!

Unfortunately my local Napa nor my Autozone has it in stock. Advance has it for twice the amount.

Can get it next day at the stores (Autozone - inter-store Transfer) for about two-3 times the price.

Not to mention I also live out in the sticks and it will be a min of 3 gallons of gas to get it. Just easier to do the online thing.

Thanks,
Chris

 

Makes sense

 

All,
The ASD Relay replacement did not correct the issue.

I am wondering if the cleaning and reseating, then it started and ran for a bit, is telling me the issue is with the connection to the SMEC/ECC/Computer or possibly the computer itself.

I can try the cleaning process/reseating the connectors again and see if the engine will just start again.

If it does than I probably should focus in that area.more?

I believe I read that the SMEC Connector (14 pin) is in charge of the fuel supply and ignition. The 60 pin is more for monitoring of powertrain functions.

I believe I also read that the SMEC Side has a industrial MOSFET that is known to be a problem over time maybe that is the problem..

Not exactly sure where to go next.

Frustrated
Chris

 

All,
Found the Haynes Manual.

Both the Haynes(Troubleshooting) and Factory Service Manual (Some Searching) walk you thru some steps and suggest the Pickup Coil.

Going to replace the Pickup Coil, less than $20 from Amazon, maybe the AC Signal I am getting is not good/strong enough?

If I replace the pickup coil, we can then at least knock that one off from the list of possible issues.

After that if no run, it would point to the wiring or Computer...cause everything else would be new.

Thanks,
Chris.

 

"Fix what you can. What's left is what's wrong".

---The late, RalphP, Former thread member.