If you have the ability and room, I'd pull the engine and replace all the expansion plugs (Actual names.) You might even flush the rust and sand out of the block. I've used the rubber plugs before but I consider them to be a field expedient, just something to get equipment back on the road.

 

I have a preference for Permatex Ultra Copper that is rated up 700*. It's my go to for any engine sealing. What ever you use make sure the hole in the block is clean, Sand any rust/debris before installing.

 

Permatex Ultra Copper. Check
Perfectly clean surfaces. Check

Not sure when I'll get to this job. I may just have my mechanic do it when I bring it in for the AC work. Working with a lift makes things sooo much easier. Especially when you're an old man.

 

Yeah, I've heard this about expansion plugs. Convenient, but not durable.

 

The factory didn't care how long the steel ones lasted, As long as it was past the warranty period. If you build a motor or do a swap that's the time to put in brass plugs. They will outlast the motor.

 

I'm curious. Is it easier to pull the engine (5.2L) in my '93 Dakota than I think? What all has to be done?

Detach all the throttle linkages
Detach all the vacuum lines
Detach the motor mounts
Detach spark plug wires
Detach exhaust manifolds
Detach air inlet tube
Detach wiring to injectors, sensors, and alternator
Detach tranny
Detach coolant tubes
Detach serpentine belt
Lift out engine (where are the lift points?)

What am I missing? How many hours are we talking? I mean, this is a 1993 truck. It isn't a new truck with gobs of crap on it.

 

That's mostly it. For lift points, I've got plates to bolt in place of the carburetor/TBI assembly but it always seems a bit dainty on aluminum intakes. What I prefer to do is get some longer intake bolts where they go into the head. Make sure they are grade 8, and use them to bolt a chain to the top on the engine. I use a piece of chain on each side and combine them with a shackle to lift the engine.

A few caveats though. When you unbolt the torque converter from the engine, mark one of the bolt holes with spray paint. Make sure the paint is also on the converter. This will make reassembly easier as the bolts are NOT in an even pattern so it will ONLY go together one way. When you pull it, remove the torque converter if it's an automatic and replace the front transmission seal. I've had them leak later and it's several hours of aggravation for a $20-30 part. When you put the converter back in, be sure to rotate it until it clicks in three times. With it all the way in, there will be a gap between it and the flex plate. Otherwise, you will destroy the front pump if you force it in with the bolts.

 

I don't have the space or equipment to do it here. I'm just curious as to the size of the job (and wondering what a shop might charge). I was going to follow up with another question that you began to answer. If the engine were pulled for one reason or another, what else would be wise to do while the engine was pulled? You mentioned the tranny seal, anything else? Is the tranny seal the same as the rear main seal?

 

The front seal on the transmission is near but NOT the rear seal on the engine. Inspect the rear seal but if it's dry, leave it be. When I swap an engine, I replace the front transmission seal and if I'm putting another, used, used engine into a vehicle, I replace all the expansion plugs and flush the block out, replace the timing chain because it's easiest when the engine is out. Remove the oil pan and clean it as well as put a new oil pump in. I go with qa high volume, NOT a high pressure as it can blow the seals out inside the engine. High volume compensates for worn seals. I'll generally clean the block and paint it a bit along with new intake and valve cover seals. One thing I've only done a couple of times was replace the brass insert where the distributor goes through the intake valley down to the cam shaft. The last engine I swapped in had around 95K on it and it ran like a new one afterward. I think I put another 150K on it before the truck broke in half.

 

I found out today that I probably have a leaking freeze plug. A few months ago the orginal water pump was giving out so I had my favorite local shop replace that and a couple other small pieces. My truck started getting near hot and my radiator took about half gallon of coolant. Started to notice small puddles under , mid engine near trans.
He is going to give me an paper estimate, but mention it could be $1800 , hopefully for all of them I guess ?
The motor is good/strong and trans.works fine, as does the 4x4 and I need it to be reliable as I'm giving it to my grandaughter. At least there will still be a truck available in the family .
Probaly have that front trans seal replaced at the time then ?