94 Dakota, 5.2 mag, 4x4 SLT, extra 1/4 cab. 250,000 mi.

I’m 1 of those people that needs to accumulate parts over time. And I'm a slow writer or slo at something. All the miss takes are mine, measurements are approximate,

I have a salvage yard intake with ebay plenum plate, Engine Quest heads, ARP head bolts, ARP intake & stainless exhaust bolts/studs, ARP stainless down pipe bolts, timing chain(need to get a cover from salvage yard in case of any cavitation or electrolysis), H2o pump, serpentine belt and idler/tensioner. Fel-pro gaskets.

Still need cam lifters, HS bolt dwn 1.7 rockers, a more amp alternator, need to fab auxiliary batterytray/mt, change mounting of trans auxiliary heat exchanger-23w X 17h X 1.5 inches-Too far from front of radiator, I moved the grill and a/c thingy out 2in, (one of the F-350 Superduty Diesel types, Dorman # 918-216 from Amazon), pwr steer cooler and maybe when I win the lottery, a Wizard Cooling alum radiator with Spal brushless fans. And lets not forget a heater core. It hasn’t got down to below freezing yet, the mosquitoes are going like gang busters.

Okay, now the nitty gritty, I’ll try some pics. I installed a catch can in the PCV line (NOT smog legal in California. Won’t pass the Visual test). EERRGG, gagging, choke, Smog test tomorrow. And moved the wire loom/bundle squeeshed behind a/c pump and now engine temperature gage works for the 1st time in 5 yrs. Moved passenger side wire bundle to top of valve cover. When I was securing the wire bundle to the firewall, I purposely broke the BRITTLE spuw-gety line from evap purge valve solenoid that eventually ends up on passenger side fender at evap can. And then while inspecting my handy work, I broke the line to the egr solenoid. A couple of months ago I sourced some approximately 0.125 or 1/8 in or 3.2mm OD hard line and some OD 4 or 4.7 mm vacuum hose and some ¼in or 6.6mm hard line from Amazon. It has saved the day a couple of times. The stock hard line is approx. 3.7mm, so when replacing it with the smaller line in the rubber couplers, I used a couple of small wire ties as clamps. The vacuum line to the evap purge solenoid starts from the bottom of the intake manifold on drivers side, which is a ¼ in. I picked up from the ‘amazing place’ a 1/4in to 1/8in brass barbed reducer. That vacuum line goes from 1/4in vacuum barb on the intake, to 1/4in hose to reducer to 1/8in spegetty line.

Could I move the purge solenoid to the firewall and install a 1/8in pipe-to-barb fitting on the passenger side of the keg? Maybe? It would clean up the rear of the keg. I'm asking if anyone knows. Are the vacuum barbs in the intake a press fit? Then I could twist the fittings out from the drivers side and thread the holes for pipe plugs. Then the only vacuum fitting on drivers side would be for the brake booster.
I'm figuring things out as I go. I'll try the Pics ---





Fuel filter is to find out if the can is separating the oil out. Probably didn't need the hose clamps, the barbs are really tite

UnSqueeshed wire bundle.

Yellow rats nest, should mark vacuum lines, except for the fuel crossover at rear of keg. And the wire bundle on top of passenger side valve cover.

Showing in fore ground, 1/4in X 1/8in barbed adapter and vacuum hose to hard line. Yellow on purge solenoid, to hard vacuum lines moved to firewall. Maybe I can fab a shelf either under the convolted wire bundle or above it, to hold the EGR and the purge solenoid.

Really limber vacuum hard line. The knot is about 1in in diameter.
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