Where to find new transmission cooler lines
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Joined: Mar 2022
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Where to find new transmission cooler lines
I have a 92 Dakota 5.2 automatic 4x4 an I need to replace my transmission cooling lines. I'm struggling to find a source online. If anyone had any suggestions that would be helpful. If I can't find new lines I'm considering bending my own or replacing with AN lines
Amateur
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 42
Likes: 2
From: Pensacola Florida
I got mine at RockAuto.com, if they don't have what you need running your own is a good option if you got the know how.
If it's just a small section you could always just flair/nut and rubber hose it.
If it's just a small section you could always just flair/nut and rubber hose it.
Rookie
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 57
Likes: 3
From: Red Bluff, California, USA
Don't mean to bend your ear too much.
AN-6 means Army/Navy- Measurement in 1/16ths, so #6 would be 3/8ths? Which is the same as the JIC interchange, usually for hydraulic fittings.
I purchase my hardlines from McMaster-Carr in 6ft sections. They have taper pipe, straight pipe, JIC 37 ° fittings, the nuts, the flare backup, O-Ring, Clockable fittings, to Komatsu 30 ° fittings, to just about whatever you want. I think European is 60 °? And many others. If you have a Parker Hydraulic store, a heavy equipment shop, a hydraulic repair shop, Etc... around you, that would be a place to check. Salvage yard?
I use a Rol-Air flaring tool from Imperial (Used to be Imperial-Eastman) thru Zoro, or any other supply house. The flaring tool uses a roller to make the flares, it so easy to flare .049 1/2 tube, I keep thinking I'm doing it wrong. My rol-air tool was about 400.00, kinda steep for only one job. Imperial makes some other types of flaring tools. I picked up a nice used 45 ° flaring tool set from eBay, with the expander thing too. I haven't tried it out yet; it's supposed to be an eccentric-type flaring tool, which is better than the old 45deg flare tool that pushes a flare into place.
One of the problems with the Bundy tube (Auto Parts Store Brake Lines) is that it will split. I've used a lot of it, it works well for the bead-type compression fittings. You can flare it, I've done it. It flares a lot easier when you have a roller flaring tool.
Some people think the bead-type compression fittings can't hold the pressure. I've worked on AW graders (Austin Westin, I think they were a precursor to Champions), A hole lot of similarities. And they used them a lot. They also used taper pipe, and straight pipe AND lets not forget Compression fittings. The hydraulic system on the AW was a 1/2in belt drive, 9 gpm, 700 psi, with a 3 gal hydraulic tank. I changed out the hydraulic pump to a crank-driven, 35gpm, 2500psi system, with a 20-gal tank. The owner didn't want to put in a heat exchanger. So after a 10 hr. day, in 110 degF heat , it got a little anemic. Don't forget EVERY threaded fitting is a Compression fitting.
I start out with a piece of 1/16th or 1/8in bare welding rod and figure out where I want the bends and unions. I have to straighten the rod with a pair of pliers or I'll have used 20 pcs part way through.
AN-6 means Army/Navy- Measurement in 1/16ths, so #6 would be 3/8ths? Which is the same as the JIC interchange, usually for hydraulic fittings.
I purchase my hardlines from McMaster-Carr in 6ft sections. They have taper pipe, straight pipe, JIC 37 ° fittings, the nuts, the flare backup, O-Ring, Clockable fittings, to Komatsu 30 ° fittings, to just about whatever you want. I think European is 60 °? And many others. If you have a Parker Hydraulic store, a heavy equipment shop, a hydraulic repair shop, Etc... around you, that would be a place to check. Salvage yard?
I use a Rol-Air flaring tool from Imperial (Used to be Imperial-Eastman) thru Zoro, or any other supply house. The flaring tool uses a roller to make the flares, it so easy to flare .049 1/2 tube, I keep thinking I'm doing it wrong. My rol-air tool was about 400.00, kinda steep for only one job. Imperial makes some other types of flaring tools. I picked up a nice used 45 ° flaring tool set from eBay, with the expander thing too. I haven't tried it out yet; it's supposed to be an eccentric-type flaring tool, which is better than the old 45deg flare tool that pushes a flare into place.
One of the problems with the Bundy tube (Auto Parts Store Brake Lines) is that it will split. I've used a lot of it, it works well for the bead-type compression fittings. You can flare it, I've done it. It flares a lot easier when you have a roller flaring tool.
Some people think the bead-type compression fittings can't hold the pressure. I've worked on AW graders (Austin Westin, I think they were a precursor to Champions), A hole lot of similarities. And they used them a lot. They also used taper pipe, and straight pipe AND lets not forget Compression fittings. The hydraulic system on the AW was a 1/2in belt drive, 9 gpm, 700 psi, with a 3 gal hydraulic tank. I changed out the hydraulic pump to a crank-driven, 35gpm, 2500psi system, with a 20-gal tank. The owner didn't want to put in a heat exchanger. So after a 10 hr. day, in 110 degF heat , it got a little anemic. Don't forget EVERY threaded fitting is a Compression fitting.
I start out with a piece of 1/16th or 1/8in bare welding rod and figure out where I want the bends and unions. I have to straighten the rod with a pair of pliers or I'll have used 20 pcs part way through.