They checked the refrigerant pressure (and, upon recieving the truck back and bringing it home, verified) and said it was OK. After the accident and all, even with the A/C turned "off" I could hear the clutch trying to engage sometimes (I'm assuming something up there is out-of-wack). I simply disconnected the connecter to the clutch, and it made the sound a few more times, and stopped. I also remembered they did not (at least appear to) do a front end alignment, which, I would think would be standard procedure on a front-end accident. So there are 2 things for me to bring up.

I've helped my friends replace head-units. The things that get me are amp's and some of the ratings and such. Oh well, I haven't actually touched and amp or helped put on in, and, I only learn good hands-on.

 

I cant believe they didnt even check the alignment. I think in your case I would of got another shops opinion. I'm not gonna say it but it would appear to me they were trying to keep some money on this one. I would at least be skeptical about it.

If I were in your shoes I would find it really odd that the a/c quit working roughly the same time as the accident. I would definitly push that issue.

Welp I must be off to work now.

Hope you can get this one straightened out.

 

have you tried a compression test ?

 

Whatcha talkin about exactly?

 

Yeah, a compression test was done. The truck has been running fine for quite some time now though.

 

My 92 D150 3.9L is doing much the same thing, however it does still run and is drivable. It backfires under load. This is with new plugs, cap, rotor, wires, timing chain and sprockets. It seems to me that the throttle sensor was the breakthrough for your problem. You then discovered a bad cap, but would you agree that the throttle sensor was the keystone to correcting your truck? I think I will try that next. I have also thought of replacing the crankshaft sensor because the timing mark jumps at idle speeds. I hate to think that I might be on the verge of taking the same trip you have been on just trying to get this thing fixed. Your posts may save me a lot of frustration. I certainly hope so!

 

Is the check engine light on or does it come on at all during any of this? Did you try the rolling the key trick to get codes out of the computer? I would check for vacuum leaks and look into your egr system. The egr valve may be stuck open. The computer controls the timing and uses inputs from various sensor to set it. It will appear to fluctuate a bit when idling. As long as you set the timing marks on the chain when you put it on correctly, and you didnt remove or turn the distributor...I would't worry about the timing.

I think part of my problem was the throttle sensor, but I know that it wasnt the whole problem. The main problem was a defective dist. cap that was recently replaced. Also my timing chain was way stretched out. I would read up on how to check sensors, perform tests on them and then replcae them as needed. My tps did have a dead spot in it. A dead spot in the tps would result in a dead spot in the throttle so it looses power at a certain position. I also had a bad connector in my harness that wasn't helping things either. I eventually replaced every sensor as well as the computer and learned alot during this whole ordeal. Of course my truck has over 200,000 miles on it so not everything was working as it should, but I strongly feel that if I would of just re-replaced the cap it would of ran.

One thing that really did help me out alot was referencing this page....www.allpar.com

There is alot of useful info for the do it yourselfer like you or I. Trouble codes, how to obtain them, and alot of if this is happening try that.

I hope this helps,
Eric

P.s.......the truck is still running beautifully. I haven't done a single thing to it since this except put about 4,500 miles on it and change the oil.

 

did you get the pcm for the new engine?it may not be compatible in some way with the old pcm...I hate electrical crap!

 

Ummm yeah. The truck has been running great.......... For awhile now.

 

Nutshell history: Bought truck 1 year ago w/100k miles. Ran great. Six months later muffler leak had gotten much worse and it began rough running. Replaced muffler, tailpipe and catalytic converter. Replaced sparkplugs, wires, cap & rotor. Noticed timing fluctuations. Error codes were #22 & #45. Replacedtemperature sensor(parts books give wrong p.n.-use the one listed for the 318), at a complete lost as to what to do about #45 - truck has 3 spd trans, error #45 is overdrive solenoid.
Compression check shows 140-160 psi on all six cylinders. Timing chain had massive amount of slack. Replaced it. Checked new spark plugs and they were fouled and wet with gas. Found vacuum leak on pass. side of intake and fixed it. Ran great for about ten minutes, then started backfiring. Read that fuel injector o-rings could be cause. Replaced them. Ran good for a short while. Now it is back to running rough and backfiring again. Seems that everything I do improves it for a little while, or at least until the next time it reaches operating temperature. Sat, when I posted, I called all five of the auto parts stores in town (think green acres here) and came up emptyhanded for the throttle position sensor, so I will try again Monday. I am somewhat curious as to why the oxygen sensor isn't going crazy with all of the raw gas on the spark plugs. The motor is doing what I would call fluttering when you give it the gas, like it is faulting in some way on all six cylinders, much too fast to be a miss on one cylinder. This is in addition to the backfiring when under load.