98 dakota ac problem
I can feel cold air coming out of the vents but the blower only works when it feels like it. I can really feel cold air come out of the vents when I'm on the the freeway. Sometimes I would be able to get the blower to come on by going down the freeway but that is not working now. Any idea's on where to start looking? My mechanics are disagreeing on whether it is the blower or switches and they just want to start replacing things. That can get expensive very fast. Thanks in advance for your help.
You own a Gen II, but posted in the Gen I forum. No biggie.
Does it matter what blower speed you have selected (high, medium, low, etc)? It might also be a problem related to a vacuum leak (are you sure it does not switch vents to the top [defrost] vents?).
What you could do is either you, or have them, do a setup to there they setup a voltmeter on
(1) the wires that are GOING TO the blower resistor block (When you select a blower fan speed, the electricty goes here from the fan speed selector switch, and the block has resistors in it that allow only a certain amount of power to go to the blower, thus differant fan speed). On the Gen II (1997-2004 Dakotas) I believe the blower motor resistor block is located by the HVAC unit inside the passenger compartment, and can be accessed from the passenger foot well area.
(2) the wires that are GOING TO the blower from the resistor block.
Obvisouly, if (1) always has power going to it, but (2) does not, the reasons is a faulty blower motor resistor block (which, I guess costs only like $10).
If (1) and (2) have power, and the fan does not work, either the wiring going to the fan (from the resistor block), or the fan itself, is bad,
If neither (1) nor (2) have power, the problem is probably just a faulty fan speed selector switch (but make sure to test other wiring before getting a new one)
Go HERE. Post #2. You can download a copy of a service manual for a 2001 Dakota.
If (1) and (2) both don't have power, it could also be that somewhere along the line, wires are not making proper connections. Using a wiring diagram (such as the one found in the service manual) you can find wires, and test continuity between the two ends.
It's wouldn't think it would be that hard to understand.
Does it matter what blower speed you have selected (high, medium, low, etc)? It might also be a problem related to a vacuum leak (are you sure it does not switch vents to the top [defrost] vents?).
What you could do is either you, or have them, do a setup to there they setup a voltmeter on
(1) the wires that are GOING TO the blower resistor block (When you select a blower fan speed, the electricty goes here from the fan speed selector switch, and the block has resistors in it that allow only a certain amount of power to go to the blower, thus differant fan speed). On the Gen II (1997-2004 Dakotas) I believe the blower motor resistor block is located by the HVAC unit inside the passenger compartment, and can be accessed from the passenger foot well area.
(2) the wires that are GOING TO the blower from the resistor block.
Obvisouly, if (1) always has power going to it, but (2) does not, the reasons is a faulty blower motor resistor block (which, I guess costs only like $10).
If (1) and (2) have power, and the fan does not work, either the wiring going to the fan (from the resistor block), or the fan itself, is bad,
If neither (1) nor (2) have power, the problem is probably just a faulty fan speed selector switch (but make sure to test other wiring before getting a new one)
Go HERE. Post #2. You can download a copy of a service manual for a 2001 Dakota.
If (1) and (2) both don't have power, it could also be that somewhere along the line, wires are not making proper connections. Using a wiring diagram (such as the one found in the service manual) you can find wires, and test continuity between the two ends.
It's wouldn't think it would be that hard to understand.
I had the same problem. I JUST fixed it. If you wiggle the connector to your blower motor resistor it should come back on. My connector got dry rotted and cracked so one single blade connection was crappy. That would shut it completely down! A repair kit from dodge was 60 freakin bucks so I just cut my connector off and replace all 5 connectors with new female style blades and it works great!



