Has anyone tried one of these? It seems they would be even better for performance...

Hypertech 1012 PowerStat 160 deg Thermostat

 

and shorter engine life. and more moisture in the crankcase.

 

You might as well just run with no thermostat at all.

Getting the engine up to operating temp is necessary for emissions controls, but also the engine just runs better. I know you're probably too young to remember them, but engines used to have carburetors, and carbs had choke mechanisms. Basically made the engine run richer until it reached operating temp. Because cold engines don't run worth crap.

But the other thing is that (and this really applies to you guys way up there in the sub-arctic) at 160 degrees, you'll have virt-ually no heat to keep you warm and keep the windows clear of ice in winter.

Keep your 192 degree thermostat. Save your money.

 

Im well aware of how older engines work, I was considering how this would affect summer performance. Where I live hits low to high 30s all summer (Up to high 90s for you southern folk)

 

beleave it or not SOMETIMES the factory DOES know what they are doing.

 

So you don't actually live in Edmonton? Excuse me, if my tone is a bit mocking, I live in a hot climate--temps that can on a daily basis be in the 100 plus range for 40 days in a row, and go as high as 117. And I live in a fairly sprawling city with no freeways and lots of traffic lights, so it's stop and go.

What thermostat do I use? I have a Stant 192 degree. My truck was running a bit hot this summer, so I replaced my old towing pack radiator, which was a two row, but clogged. Amazing how much lighter the new two row radiator is, btw. My truck does run a bit hotter in summer than in late fall, winter, and early spring, but nothing that's dangerous to the engine.

If you feel that a new radiator isn't sufficient (I didn't) you can install a large external trannie cooler in front of the radiator, I did.

I would suggest that if your truck is running hot in 90 degree weather, you need a new radiator first. Not lightning in a bottle, snake oil from someone offering a 160 degree thermostat. My original comment that you might as well run with no thermostat still applies.

 

There is no performance gain to be had by running 160* thermostat. If you've heard that I'd like to hear the reasoning behind it or a link to an explanation because that's news to me (I'm a professional auto technician with 18 years experience, not including school, and own my own shop) Your engine may not reach "closed loop" which means you'll be running in "open loop" (warm-up mode) all the time. That means you're going to be running pig rich, get crap gas milage, possibly burn out your catalytic converter by dumping too much fuel down it for prolong periods of time, and a performance loss because the computer is set to run on pre-set parameters during open loop instead of adjusting for conditions. There are different timing and idle curves for closed and open loop. The coldest t-stat I would run is a 180* (which I run) and the only reason I do that is because these heads tend to crack and I'd rather run a little on the cooler side because of that.

 

Don't go 160. IF you are gunna change the thermostat out for a lower temp one, don't go any lower than 180. And as mentioned before, don't expect a performance gain out of it. I have no problems with mine warming up in the winter with the 180. Solid heat too considering the heater core is half clogged. But with a 160 the heat will suck in the winter. And with the 180 in the summer, it runs just above the normal line, maybe a quarter way up at most on hot days (instead of half). The only benefit tho, is knowing your motor is running a little cooler. That's it..