94 dak 3.9
New- plugs, wires, cap, rotor, switch plate, coil, EGR, TPS.
I want to have the tranny serviced but I need to get the thing idling correctly first.
It goes from 1200-1800+ and only drops down in gear.
I can't find much by the search function here. How do I determine if it is a timing chain or other issue?

Thank You

 

OK I feel stupid. I was able to adjust the rpms of the motor at the Throttle body. A star wrench #25. Got it idling down at around 600-700 and it is smooooth. Now I know its the tranny needs servicing as it jumps when I give it gas from a stop and the throttle issue seems to be fixed if still less responsive than I like. I'm used to Jetta and Passat instantaneous motor/wheel response in either direction when I move the gas pedal. I don't know that I'm gonna get used to the delay I sure hope the tranny service helps.

PS I also changed out the PCV valve today. It seemed normal it rattled when I shook it, but it made a huge racket constant open close almost like a loose lifter when running and now its quiet.

 

I have the same problem. With my 92 dakota
where did you make this adjustment

Thank You[/QUOTE]

 

On this video at 54 second the hole in front of his middle knockle as he points at the cable is the place where the adjustig screw is
That shows a plug in the hole which I have heard is the stock setup. Mine alreadey had that knocked out when I bought it. I don't know how to knock it out. You'll have to find that info.


I still have issues with how it runs and I am thinking about cleaning or replacing the IAC and Map sensor. This video shows how to remove the throttle body to clean it which I may also do. Post again when you get results of any kind.
Good Luck

 

Guys, if your idle screw in the throttle body has already been tamperered with, then by all means try and put it back to where it ought to be, but if it hasn't, do not use this screw to solve idle issues! The service manual shouts it out in big bold capital letters that this is pre-set from the factory and ought not be adjusted. Not like tuning a carb.

 

StanDon, I have worked out from other info that the adjusting screw is used at the factory to set the butterfly valve at the fully closed position. I figure the computer is programmed to assume the default position of the valve is closed and whatever input it gets from the sensors assumes that is true no matter what the actual position is.

I'm trying to set my vehicle TB/Tranny to OEM so that I can determine specific problems from there instead of trying to work on changes I am unaware of done by former owners.