SLUGE
Rookie
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 96
Likes: 1
From: Northern Kentucky
RE: SLUGE
*Found a page on this: http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm *
Emailed the guy - asking what I could do to help avoid this - got a reply fast! I'm not sure on the commercial engine cleaners vs. Trans fluid - seems to be wisdom in the trans fluid. But just a FYI - he's got a cheap 'test' kit available too. While I don't think it will be a problem, it doesn't hurt to stay watchful.
Personally, I was thinking about a performance oil pump myself. They are almost required in performance cars that are going to be ran hard, and I can't see where it would be bad for everyday driving. It's a cheap insurance policy, IMO.
Question on this though - he recommends 5W-30 - is that right? Edit: nm - found that answer here myself -- https://dodgeforum.com/m_550523/tm.htm
**************
Oil sludge is preventable, and can even be detected and reversed in the
early stages. Here's how:
First thing would be to change over to a quality motor oil - Valvoline Full
Synthetic 5w30. See more at
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=19
Available at WalMart,Amazon.com and local parts stores in a 6qt case.
Second, would be a "HIGH EFFICIENCY" Mobil 1 brand oil filter, available at
http://www.autobarn.net/mob1higefoil.html
Third, you should test the oil for oxidation and sludge using a small oil
sample from the dipstick, instead of lab samples which require an ounce or
more of oil and shipping to a labratory, you can get similar results for
much less money. There is a product I created due to overwhelming demand
from readers. I spent two years developing and testing this product, and
it works! http://schleeter.com/test/index.htm
I would then recommend taking that test to the next level by using a
magnifying glass to get a close up look at the oil sample. See
http://schleeter.com/images/oil%20te...9%20toyota.jpg for
an example of a blotter test close up.
If testing shows abnormal results (carbon chips or sludge) start using BG
brand "QuickClean" and "MOA" at every oil service and continue until test
results improve. Their "Engine Purge" should only be used by a shop -
really strong stuff. Check out BG brand products on their web site
http://www.bgprod.com/products/engineoil.html
they are available at your local parts store.
Most quick-lube shops or mechanics won't mind if you bring your own oil,
oil filter and additives if it is a brand they don't offer.
Change the PCV valve and hoses whether they need it or not,
every 20,000 miles. Also a clean OE quality (not K&N) air filter will also
help the oil stay clean and the engine running properly.
Good luck and happy trails, write back if you have any more questions.
Norris Schleeter
Emailed the guy - asking what I could do to help avoid this - got a reply fast! I'm not sure on the commercial engine cleaners vs. Trans fluid - seems to be wisdom in the trans fluid. But just a FYI - he's got a cheap 'test' kit available too. While I don't think it will be a problem, it doesn't hurt to stay watchful.
Personally, I was thinking about a performance oil pump myself. They are almost required in performance cars that are going to be ran hard, and I can't see where it would be bad for everyday driving. It's a cheap insurance policy, IMO.
Question on this though - he recommends 5W-30 - is that right? Edit: nm - found that answer here myself -- https://dodgeforum.com/m_550523/tm.htm
**************
Oil sludge is preventable, and can even be detected and reversed in the
early stages. Here's how:
First thing would be to change over to a quality motor oil - Valvoline Full
Synthetic 5w30. See more at
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=19
Available at WalMart,Amazon.com and local parts stores in a 6qt case.
Second, would be a "HIGH EFFICIENCY" Mobil 1 brand oil filter, available at
http://www.autobarn.net/mob1higefoil.html
Third, you should test the oil for oxidation and sludge using a small oil
sample from the dipstick, instead of lab samples which require an ounce or
more of oil and shipping to a labratory, you can get similar results for
much less money. There is a product I created due to overwhelming demand
from readers. I spent two years developing and testing this product, and
it works! http://schleeter.com/test/index.htm
I would then recommend taking that test to the next level by using a
magnifying glass to get a close up look at the oil sample. See
http://schleeter.com/images/oil%20te...9%20toyota.jpg for
an example of a blotter test close up.
If testing shows abnormal results (carbon chips or sludge) start using BG
brand "QuickClean" and "MOA" at every oil service and continue until test
results improve. Their "Engine Purge" should only be used by a shop -
really strong stuff. Check out BG brand products on their web site
http://www.bgprod.com/products/engineoil.html
they are available at your local parts store.
Most quick-lube shops or mechanics won't mind if you bring your own oil,
oil filter and additives if it is a brand they don't offer.
Change the PCV valve and hoses whether they need it or not,
every 20,000 miles. Also a clean OE quality (not K&N) air filter will also
help the oil stay clean and the engine running properly.
Good luck and happy trails, write back if you have any more questions.
Norris Schleeter
