Evaporator/Heater Core - Need a little help
Hey guys, I am replacing the evaporator (and the working heater core and blower motor so I do not have to do this again) in my 2000 Durango. I have everything out except the HVAC unit. I cannot figure out what is preventing it from coming out. I have the 4 bolts (nuts from the studs) through the firewall out, the front mounting bracket in the passenger compartment, heater hoses and disconneted theA/C line atthe valve. When I try to remove the HVAC unit, I can rock it from side to side but something in the middle is keeping it attached to the firewall. Is there a hook or locating pin or something like that behind the center of the unit? Is there something that I am missing? Driving me nuts, almost as nuts as removing the well positioned bolt behind the trans dipstick (thanks DC). I would appreciate anyone's help, comments, or advice. Thanks.
Do you have a haynes manual or chiltons?
This is the reason I paid to have it done, major PITA!! Of course if I were as smart as you, I would of done the evaporator also....
This is the reason I paid to have it done, major PITA!! Of course if I were as smart as you, I would of done the evaporator also....
Probably some rubber molding holding it in place. Keep wiggling (gently) and try to get a better look at it. Maybe bring your wife/girlfriends/sisters/whoevers mirror out with you so you can get a better angle at it?
Thanks guys for the replies, I figured it out. It was getting hung up where the evap runs through the firewall and connects up to the H-valve. I was working on it until about 2 am the night before the post. The next evening I went out there and saw it right away. I have both Haynes (on a scale of 1-10 I give it a 5 for evap/heater core replacement) and the Dodge service manual. It took me about 7-8 hours to remove everything including the HVAC box. I probably spent 1.5 of those hours just to get the last nut off holding the box to the firewall, it is conviently located right behind the trans dipstick tube just above the bell housing. Once I replaced the evap, core, and blower motor, took about 4 hours to put it all back together ( and everything worked the first time. It sure would suck to get it all back together and find out something doesn't work because I missed a connector or something). I would do it again to save the $900, it really wasn't too bad, not that difficult, just very time consuming. Fortunately the wife was out of town for a few days, so Ihad a car to use in the mean time. First time around took a while because it was somewhat trial and error on what needed to be disconnected. Kind of like this: pull the dash back a little bit - oh, there's a connector, pull it back a little more - oh, theres another, etc. Taking a break and a cold beer every now and then helps too! Second time around (hopefully I won't find out) I expect would go several hours quicker, now that I know what needs to come out. Anyone who is thinking of doing andhas any questions, just let me know.
Thanks again guys.
Thanks again guys.
"I probably spent 1.5 of those hours just to get the last nut off holding the box to the firewall, it is conviently located right behind the trans dipstick tube just above the bell housing."
I am removing the dash trim now, but can see that that nut at the firewallwill be my biggest problem.
How did you get to that nut?
I can not see how I will be able to get to it. From under the car maybe?
I am removing the dash trim now, but can see that that nut at the firewallwill be my biggest problem.
How did you get to that nut?
I can not see how I will be able to get to it. From under the car maybe?




