Help! 99 Durango dies out while running
I've been sending this post around because of similar problems. My A/C took a dump on me, but no problems with the lights when the D is surging/dying/feels like starved for fuel. Although this doesn't work as well for the surging, from what I have been told the problem can be related to the PCM as it controls the amount of juice to the spark which could create the sputtering under steady throttle. I will re-post any change when I replace my PCM as soon as I find the cheapest route.
I have had various symptoms on my 99. I would reset my PCM and that works for about a month. The first time D wouldn't stay idle. Second Third and Fourth time D wouldn't start. Also while under steady throttle it would sputter as if fuel starved. I checked on another forum and this is a common problem with the older D's. To reset your PCM disconnect your battery and wait, not sure how long I usually wait about an hour, then reconnect your battery and be ready for the alarm to sound as the first time I tried this I put my head through the hood. Then turn on all of your accessories such as lights, A/C on high, radio, fog lights etc., start your SUV and let idle until it has reached operating temperature, then turn off the SUV and restart.That should reset the PCM. It is not a permanent fix as I have stated, but a PCM is expensive and hard to find. My cheap butt is still shopping around.
I have had various symptoms on my 99. I would reset my PCM and that works for about a month. The first time D wouldn't stay idle. Second Third and Fourth time D wouldn't start. Also while under steady throttle it would sputter as if fuel starved. I checked on another forum and this is a common problem with the older D's. To reset your PCM disconnect your battery and wait, not sure how long I usually wait about an hour, then reconnect your battery and be ready for the alarm to sound as the first time I tried this I put my head through the hood. Then turn on all of your accessories such as lights, A/C on high, radio, fog lights etc., start your SUV and let idle until it has reached operating temperature, then turn off the SUV and restart.That should reset the PCM. It is not a permanent fix as I have stated, but a PCM is expensive and hard to find. My cheap butt is still shopping around.
when you are ready to replace your PCM. make sure to inspect the wiring harness. If that is bad, in any way, you will be looking at a repeat to replace your PCM again soon.
I contacted ECU Direct and of course you check connections, wires, etc., but they had mentioned scanning the ECM which would determine if the problem is PCM or wiring. They also stated that the scan could tell if the PCM is reprogrammable. If the PCM is reprogrammable the cost is $300 plus shipping, if not reprogrammable you can buy areprogrammed one for $395. A new PCM will cost around $600. ECU Direct says the give a lifetime warranty! I have not dealt with them though they do look legit. I have checked other parts places with no luck finding anythingother than Kragen who can order a reprogrammed PCM for $350, but no warranty.
Thanks for more tips Derekmoore!
My Husband cleaned and replaced the jelly for all of the connectors around and in the computer about 3 weeks ago. Did exactly as you said, turn on every possible thing then started her up. She fired up like normal and ran normal till last week Wednesday 9/5. She died outduring my morning errands going up a hill, took about 3 minutes to start back up. When she died out there was still juice going throughmy truck as I was able to turn my hazzards on. Andit didn't have the no bus signal go on till after a minute or so.
She took way longer than usual toreset and start back up.
Then the very next day afterdriving a few miles (8 at the most) I made a stop at Sam's Club. When I was ready to leave she would not start for like 15 minutes. Enough time for me to open the hood and check out most of the connectors, run back and fourth to crank the startermultiple times. She sounded like she wanted to start but could not fire/turn over. Got her started after all of that and she's been running fine ever since. Weird stuff. Oh andof course she runs fine now I am grumbling about her.
Just in case any of you missed this and wanted to add to my list, here's a post that I made in the new members section.
Are there other models having this "no bus" issue too?
The more I read the more frustrated I become[:-]. This "no bus" issue could be from what seems like an unlimited number of possibilities. She runsso perfectly when the "no bus" bug leaves her alone.
This is my somewhat short but ugly list of possible problems
Battery (my optima is about a year old)
Plugs, wires, cap&rotor (new plugs and wires, old cap&rotor.On my next to do list.)
Connectors and battery cable (scrubbed and cleaned terminal and connectors, cable still good)
Connectorsin and into the computer (cleaned and put new jelly)
Fuel filter (in the gas tank?WTH!make a simple job hard. on my to do list also)
Dirty injectors (to do list too)
Crank shaft sensor
Battery sensor
this sensor
that sensor
Im pretty sick with these sensors
And this is just off the top of my head. [:-]Probably like 1/16 of the possibilities of what could be wrong
hehe. But no seriously, wanna add to my list?
My Husband cleaned and replaced the jelly for all of the connectors around and in the computer about 3 weeks ago. Did exactly as you said, turn on every possible thing then started her up. She fired up like normal and ran normal till last week Wednesday 9/5. She died outduring my morning errands going up a hill, took about 3 minutes to start back up. When she died out there was still juice going throughmy truck as I was able to turn my hazzards on. Andit didn't have the no bus signal go on till after a minute or so.
She took way longer than usual toreset and start back up.
Then the very next day afterdriving a few miles (8 at the most) I made a stop at Sam's Club. When I was ready to leave she would not start for like 15 minutes. Enough time for me to open the hood and check out most of the connectors, run back and fourth to crank the startermultiple times. She sounded like she wanted to start but could not fire/turn over. Got her started after all of that and she's been running fine ever since. Weird stuff. Oh andof course she runs fine now I am grumbling about her.
Just in case any of you missed this and wanted to add to my list, here's a post that I made in the new members section.
Are there other models having this "no bus" issue too?
The more I read the more frustrated I become[:-]. This "no bus" issue could be from what seems like an unlimited number of possibilities. She runsso perfectly when the "no bus" bug leaves her alone.
This is my somewhat short but ugly list of possible problems
Battery (my optima is about a year old)
Plugs, wires, cap&rotor (new plugs and wires, old cap&rotor.On my next to do list.)
Connectors and battery cable (scrubbed and cleaned terminal and connectors, cable still good)
Connectorsin and into the computer (cleaned and put new jelly)
Fuel filter (in the gas tank?WTH!make a simple job hard. on my to do list also)
Dirty injectors (to do list too)
Crank shaft sensor
Battery sensor
this sensor
that sensor
Im pretty sick with these sensors
And this is just off the top of my head. [:-]Probably like 1/16 of the possibilities of what could be wrong
hehe. But no seriously, wanna add to my list?
sunshine, this is just a shot in the dark, trace the wiring harness from your PCM to the other end, whether that other end splits off everywhere to connect to all the sensors. Check to make sure there is nothing crimping againt the harness (possibly causing a short or a break in the wire). Also, you can tell whether moisture or condensation may have dripped on the harness (From your A/C unit), etc. Just basically make sure nothing inside the dash may be interfering with the wiring harness. You may also want to add some jelly to the connectors that go the sensors that commonly can cause a no bus issue such as the crank sensor if there is a wire connector for that? Clean it up real good and put some of that jelly in it to protect it.
If all this checks out and you still get the random no bus failure, I guess it is time for a PCM replacement.
If all this checks out and you still get the random no bus failure, I guess it is time for a PCM replacement.
I'm in the same boat with the fuel filter. Some times you have to wonder what people are thinking. They just don't expect people to do their own work, I guess we all must be made of money. As for all this electrical and computer stuff "I got nothing". I've had my 5.2 4x4 Durango forabout 9 months. I love the design, comfort, and room, butit'sbeen way too expensive. At 106K miles I expected some expenses, just not all in the first year. I thought I got a good deal $6200. I have since put in $2000 for normal high mileage replacement, shocks, ball joints, brakes etc. and now my A/C is out, what do you know on the hottest week of the year when I'm traveling with the family. I haven't done the PCM replacement, still trying toget hold of that one. I'm not really complaining though,everything so far ispretty norm. I'm just hoping that I can get a couple of years trouble free after this because I hate spending money that I don't have, otherwise I'd send you a list of mods.
Thanks Kensai! I will do that, the next time she start to act up again. Im knocking on wood here because she's been good for almost a week
).
Derekmoore, any information will help me to find some common links between our truck besides the fact that they're Durangos.
Seriously tho, I wanted to have a fit when I found out that the fuel filter is in the tank
And I think that the heat getting to the computerhas something to do with the no bus failure. None of our other vehicals have the computer in the engine area, they are all located within the cab.
).Derekmoore, any information will help me to find some common links between our truck besides the fact that they're Durangos.
Seriously tho, I wanted to have a fit when I found out that the fuel filter is in the tank
And I think that the heat getting to the computerhas something to do with the no bus failure. None of our other vehicals have the computer in the engine area, they are all located within the cab.





