Any Difference between '00 & '03 5.9 R/T Durango?
The '00 5.9L R/T I bought recently came w/ a 2003 manual for some reason. Given they are both 1st gen, I'm sure they are 99% the same, but is there anything I should know about that's different so I know not to trust the manual???
Thanks for any insight...
The difference between the 2000 and 2003 is primarily the interior. 1998-2000 have the 1st gen interior and 2001-2003 has the 2nd gen interior. Also, the 2nd gen interior may have the newer electronic 4WD selector on the dash as opposed to the old fashion 4WD shift lever usually located on the floor that is on the 1st gen interior.
The only caution you will need to check is to see if your 2000 R/T requires premium fuel. Easiest way to find out providing it did not come off is at the gas door panel. You should clearly see a OEM sticker in red/yellow that should clearly state "PREMIUM FUEL ONLY".
I tried to cheat only once by fueling up with regular grade unlead to save some extra money vs fueling Premium fuel and my D ran like crap with pinging and knocking. Never do that again.
I would have to confidently say that all 2000 R/T's uses Premium fuel as 2000 model is the first year of the R/T and they have the recalibrated PCM that gives you the extra 5 hp.
The only caution you will need to check is to see if your 2000 R/T requires premium fuel. Easiest way to find out providing it did not come off is at the gas door panel. You should clearly see a OEM sticker in red/yellow that should clearly state "PREMIUM FUEL ONLY".
I tried to cheat only once by fueling up with regular grade unlead to save some extra money vs fueling Premium fuel and my D ran like crap with pinging and knocking. Never do that again.
I would have to confidently say that all 2000 R/T's uses Premium fuel as 2000 model is the first year of the R/T and they have the recalibrated PCM that gives you the extra 5 hp.
Actually, I already was into the purchase when I noticed the Premium only restriction (which mine does have)and kind of freaked out. But the owner I bought it from said he had never used it and had no problems. I have put only 87 octane in it since then and never had an issue. I don't even hear knocking...
I do wonder how much more umph it would have w/ premium or if the mileage would improve, but when I stomp on the gas the 5.9L really throws me back, so I have enough get-up-and-go already. (Though I hardly everstep down on the gas too much given the gas costs right now)
As far as mileage- I'm already getting about 14 and from what I've seen that's as good as it gets unfortunately...
I do wonder how much more umph it would have w/ premium or if the mileage would improve, but when I stomp on the gas the 5.9L really throws me back, so I have enough get-up-and-go already. (Though I hardly everstep down on the gas too much given the gas costs right now)
As far as mileage- I'm already getting about 14 and from what I've seen that's as good as it gets unfortunately...
Problaby the damage has been done or the PCM may have been reflashed with that death flash which unfortunately have reverted you to be able to use unleaded fuel now??
Only way to tell is try one tank with premium fuel to see if you feel or notice any difference? I would say problaby not much. I just know my 00 R/T hated regular unleaded and nearly croked!
After flashing my PCM with the hypertech programmer set to use regular unleaded fuel, the power improvement is still pretty good. Much better than the OEM premium fuel setting.
Only way to tell is try one tank with premium fuel to see if you feel or notice any difference? I would say problaby not much. I just know my 00 R/T hated regular unleaded and nearly croked!
After flashing my PCM with the hypertech programmer set to use regular unleaded fuel, the power improvement is still pretty good. Much better than the OEM premium fuel setting.
The death flash could be right but:
Dodge did do some crappy R/T models. There are some out there that didn't get the R/T heads/cam and only the program tune. Tommy yours came with the R/T heads and it shows when you throw the lower octane fuel in.
The heads for the original R/T were bored and a different cam was installed. Also included was the program tune. This was a true R/T model. Dodge used the regular parts in some of the R/T's and just through in the program. Now the cam introduces longer intake strokes and the heads allow that intake with larger intake ports. This is where you get your ping and your engine runs like **** without the extra octane that is needed because of the added compression.
Extra octane retards the timing allowing the detonation to occur at a later time thus stopping the PING. PING is the sound of combustion happening at the wrong time. This occurs when the piston is still at the slightest upward compression stroke and detonation happens. As the piston is forced down, the connecting rod is still moving upward so all that pressure goes no ware but into the rod bearings. There is some small clearance between the rod bearings and the crank. The PING sound that you hear is the rod bearings smashing into the crank.
You will notice this much more on a newer engine's than an older one's because the clearance is smaller and hasn't worn out from everyday wear. The older more warn out motors have more play in them because of wear and the piston will actually be in the right spot (or close to it) when detonation occurs, thus the SLOP in the motor will even things out. It depends on the drivers that owned the trucks and how they took care of them.
Now a true R/T motor cannot run on regular octane. If it can then the motor is worn or the parts were not ever put into the motor in the first place.
Dodge did do some crappy R/T models. There are some out there that didn't get the R/T heads/cam and only the program tune. Tommy yours came with the R/T heads and it shows when you throw the lower octane fuel in.
The heads for the original R/T were bored and a different cam was installed. Also included was the program tune. This was a true R/T model. Dodge used the regular parts in some of the R/T's and just through in the program. Now the cam introduces longer intake strokes and the heads allow that intake with larger intake ports. This is where you get your ping and your engine runs like **** without the extra octane that is needed because of the added compression.
Extra octane retards the timing allowing the detonation to occur at a later time thus stopping the PING. PING is the sound of combustion happening at the wrong time. This occurs when the piston is still at the slightest upward compression stroke and detonation happens. As the piston is forced down, the connecting rod is still moving upward so all that pressure goes no ware but into the rod bearings. There is some small clearance between the rod bearings and the crank. The PING sound that you hear is the rod bearings smashing into the crank.
You will notice this much more on a newer engine's than an older one's because the clearance is smaller and hasn't worn out from everyday wear. The older more warn out motors have more play in them because of wear and the piston will actually be in the right spot (or close to it) when detonation occurs, thus the SLOP in the motor will even things out. It depends on the drivers that owned the trucks and how they took care of them.
Now a true R/T motor cannot run on regular octane. If it can then the motor is worn or the parts were not ever put into the motor in the first place.
No Durango EVER came with performance R/T heads or a special cam. While there ARE R/T heads available, and you CAN use them on the Magnum motors, they are Mopar Performance parts, not included with the stock R/T Durango.
The 2000 simply had a different PCM tune and muffler. That's it, and why the specs only reflect an additional 5 HP.
As for what causes pinging, as I mentioned in the other post, not quite accurate. Hshock, did you write that or cut and paste it from elsewhere? It is wrong. Sorry
IndyDurango
The 2000 simply had a different PCM tune and muffler. That's it, and why the specs only reflect an additional 5 HP.
As for what causes pinging, as I mentioned in the other post, not quite accurate. Hshock, did you write that or cut and paste it from elsewhere? It is wrong. Sorry

IndyDurango
Dodge did do some crappy R/T models.
The heads for the original R/T were bored and a different cam was installed.
This is where you get your ping and your engine runs like **** without the extra octane that is needed because of the added compression.
On a performance build-up or an original Dodge muscle car, True
Extra octane retards the timing allowing the detonation to occur at a later time thus stopping the PING. PING is the sound of combustion happening at the wrong time.
This occurs when the piston is still at the slightest upward compression stroke and detonation happens. As the piston is forced down, the connecting rod is still moving upward so all that pressure goes no ware but into the rod bearings. There is some small clearance between the rod bearings and the crank. The PING sound that you hear is the rod bearings smashing into the crank.
You will notice this much more on a newer engine's than an older one's because the clearance is smaller and hasn't worn out from everyday wear. The older more warn out motors have more play in them because of wear and the piston will actually be in the right spot (or close to it) when detonation occurs, thus the SLOP in the motor will even things out. It depends on the drivers that owned the trucks and how they took care of them.
Now a true R/T motor cannot run on regular octane.
Sorry if that ruffles any feathers!
IndyD







