1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

P0505 & P0443 On 2000 RT Durango

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Old 07-12-2008, 11:46 PM
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Default P0505 & P0443 On 2000 RT Durango

I'm having some issues with my 2000 Durango R/T. I started getting a intermittent check engine light, which is now solid on all the time. And last week my wife drove it and it died twice on her, but started right back up. I used my OBD II and came up with P0505 (IAC valve circuit) and P0443(EVAP system). I cleared them, but once I turn the key on(not turning engine over) again the P0505 comes right back, then after some driving the P0443 comes back. I have pulled the IAC and cleaned it and the hole, checked and cleaned my gas cap, inspected all the Vac lines from the gas fill tube to the engine. I've checked the PCV valve and other side clean air fitting for vac pressure, then just replaced the PCV since its $3. I've even sprayed carb cleaner around the intake manifold with engine on to check for leaks, nothing. I'm going to have my battery tested in the morning cause someone said that if its at the edge it could cause me some issues, so I'll try that. Anyone have any ideas? I allways feel like I'm getting messed around when I go to my dealership, but I have 30 days to fix this before I have to get smog tested for registration, so the dealership will see it if I can't get it going in a week or so.
 
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Old 07-13-2008, 12:13 PM
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Default RE: P0505 & P0443 On 2000 RT Durango

myhaynes manual says p0505 is an IAC system malfuction,not a circuit malfuction. If you hade a lot of carbon build up on it I would pull the entire throttle body off and clean it. Not difficult to do. Do a search in this form for IAC and you will find info on how to do this. If the problem persist replace the IAC solenoid.

Your p0443 is a canister purge valve circuit malfunction. the purge valveis located on the left side of the engine compartmenton the outside of the battery. itis round and about 3or 4 inches long, with 2 vacume lines and an electrical connector. since the code says circuit malfunction check theconnector for being loose or corroded. Ifeverything looks good replace the valve.

 
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Old 09-19-2008, 05:15 PM
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Ok, to catch this post up i'll let you guys know where I am today. I have now replaced the IAC valce, EVAP purge Solenoid, PCV, Gas cap, and Inspected all the lines for leaks. I got rid of the 443 code, but the 0505 would not go away. Yesterday I finally broke down and brought it to the dealership. They said its a faulty driver in my PCM and I need to replace it. They quoted me $590 for the PCM and $90 for replacing and programming it. I found reibies can get it to me for $299. Now I just have to find out if they program it for me to, or how i'm going to do that.
 
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Old 09-22-2008, 09:13 AM
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You can also get a performance one for that price. (well maybe a litttle more cash) But I have heared they can flash them as well with your info but that is not confirmed.
 
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:59 PM
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Well, the following worked for me for about $40 and about 2 hours of my time. I have a 2000 Durango R/T 5.9L, check engine light came on and discovered I had a P0505 error code by turning the ignition on and off 3 times and the code was displayed on the digital trip/mileage display.

From Autozone I bought a new IAC sensor $30, Throttle Body Gasket $2, Air Intake Gasket $2 and a new Air Filter $7.
First, disconnected both battery terminals to allow time for the PCM to clear, removed air intake from the Throttle Body and then from the Throttle Body removed all 3 electrical connectors and 1 vacuum tube (inspected for leaks, had none) and unbolted (3 bolts) the assembly holding the throttle cables as well as the cables (simply slide back on the cable mount) Removed the throttle body (it was very dirty externally and internally) and then removed the old IAC sensor and thoroughly cleaned the Throttle Body with Choke & Carb cleaner paying special attention to cleaning the IAC housing port.
After setting the tip of the IAC sensor to 1 and 1/8 inch from it’s mounting plate I reinstalled the components with the new gaskets and air filter, connected the battery terminals and BINGO…no check engine light. The truck seems to run REALLY smooth and a very smooth idle at about 600rpm’s. I’ve been driving it for a couple of weeks now and all is well.
Hope this helps…
 



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