True with the flash light.

On with the oil pressure it seems that it is inline with spec's. The main bearings on the motor might have some ware. There might be some ware on the pump or ect.

It also could be a worn tappet, lifter, or rocker.

 

I have the same noises as well, although I do seem to think the issue does get better when I have been driving for a while. It only ever starts popping/snapping when accelerating. I have put new plugs / wires in with no resolve.


2000 Dakota 4x4 4.7L

 

You have no wires with the 4.7L

You have over head coils??????

Also what plugs did you install??????

 

We put in new coils, sorry. And went with NGK V-Power series.

 

9.9 chances out of 10 its a blowing exhaust manifold - ticking is exactely the sound it made when mine went...Chris

 

It very well could be a exhaust manifold.

I don't know about the NGK plugs in the motor tho.

 

Update!.. I changed plug wires/plugs, distributor cap and rotor...the was still the same. I decided to take off the drive side exhaust manifold and in doing so, cut too more studs/bolts. I tried removing the broken studs... drilling/extracting ..the space there is very very limited to work. In the process I drilled into the head damaged the head. I took off the intake manifold to remove the head. I took the head to a shop to see if it can be repaired. The guys told me the head was trashed. They sold me a rebuild for $250. I drop that in purchased some new studs/bolts and hooked everything up and now the noise is gone. I am now concluding it was the exhaust manifold..also to correct that problem one might have to remove the head to remove any broken bolts. It is a lot of work but it will certainly prevent possible damaging of the head and will also make the job much easier. (very little room to work there)
New problem though ..don't know if I should start a new thread. The engine light is now on. The temperature gauage is at cold all the time. The engine do warm up and the top radiator hose do get hot ... I brought I new sending unit that is on top of the engine ..and put that in. When I switch off and switch on..without starting the engine the guage goes up abit...but once I start up and after a while the temp guage goes down to cold rather than to the normal operating temperature...
Is there schematic diagrams that I can look at/download?
There is a ground wire on the fire wall on the driver side that I broke loose in the process. I don't know where it gets connected to...any suggestions guys...??
I got the ticking problem licked...cost about $400.,,due in part to the new head, tuneup kit, gaskets...had I not damaged the head..it would have been way cheaper doing it myself..
Thanks ..Jay

 

Update, I got 2 codes from Autozone P0118 and P1281. I drained radiator and refilled, I changed thermostat, change the temperature sending unit. I am at a lost...the engine light is still on. I tried clearing the computer code by removing the negative lead, turning keys for a atleast 15 seconds. Then engine light will initially be off for 2 seconds and then come on again. The truck gauge is showing 130 degrees, while running, which I know is incorrect. If I turn off engine when hot and then restart ..it shows a higher temperature reading on startup and then gradually goes back down to 130. I am thinking that the sending unit is working otherwise I would not be reading a temperature at all. Any suggestions???? help!!!!
thanks, Jay

 

Well first of you need to do this for a reset.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/showthr...Reset+computer

Second, you need to show us a pic of the neg wire you broke to find where it goes. This is probly why you are getting the P0118 code. As for the P1281 code I am at a loss. But I'm sure this will fix with the engine grounding.

As for the head replacement:

I hate using heads from other engines because even tho the heads will bolt up the water jackets, and oil jackets sometimes do not. The same motor (5.9L) has been around sence the 60's but inside they have changed with the times. I would rather have mine rebuilt but you have to do what you need to do. The problem is that if the jackets are wider then that creates a ledge where deposits can form between the block and the head. Also some other styles have bigger jackets in the head which allows more water to enter the head so it doesn't heat up as well as the block was designed to do.

At least it is running colder so it seems right now and that leads to less engine ware and better power.

 

Up date!!...I got the temperature gauage thing fixed and the engine light to go off. The sending unit/plug on top of the engine...was the problem. One of the metal contact inside the plug connnector to the temperature sending unit was pushup a bit so it was not making electrical contact with the temperature sensor(2 pins). I disconnected and push up the wires and reconnect, cleared engine codes and fired up the engine and all seem fine now....
I did not considered the differences in head or improvement in the heads over the years...now that you mentioned it ... I should have done what you mentioned. I was too stressed at the time, I love the truck, only 65k miles on it. This is the very first time the engine is opened/worked on ... so at the time I just jumped on the rebuild head offered by the shop-guys...visually it look compatible and ok...and I trusted their judgement at the time.
Anyways guys ..thanks for all the help/suggestions....It is a pleasure to get help from a forum ...thanks
Jay