Replace Push Rods Help
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Replace Push Rods Help
Hey folks,
I am getting ready to pick up a 2000 D with a 5.9L Magnum in it. I haven't seen the motor yet to make sure that a bent push rod is the issue. The owner said it was checked by a mechanic and you could hear the bent pushrod. Obviously, I am not real familiar with this motor so I thought that I would ask the gurus before I jum right in and end up regretting the investment.
I am trying to see how hard the pushrod will be to get to on this to swap out or if there is anything else that may need to be done or checked on while I am in there. (IF that is the only issue)
They did say that it will start and roll under power, so that is at least a plus. It has 117K miles on it right now.
Other than the engine issue, the rest of the vehicle is in great shape. 4x4 works, interior and exterior are good as well. They just replaced the rear end a few months ago too.
I am going to tow it tomorrow and will have about $1000 invested fo rthe whole thing included the tow bill for the 60 mile treck.
Any input on that pushrod will be most appreciated.
Thanks
I am getting ready to pick up a 2000 D with a 5.9L Magnum in it. I haven't seen the motor yet to make sure that a bent push rod is the issue. The owner said it was checked by a mechanic and you could hear the bent pushrod. Obviously, I am not real familiar with this motor so I thought that I would ask the gurus before I jum right in and end up regretting the investment.
I am trying to see how hard the pushrod will be to get to on this to swap out or if there is anything else that may need to be done or checked on while I am in there. (IF that is the only issue)
They did say that it will start and roll under power, so that is at least a plus. It has 117K miles on it right now.
Other than the engine issue, the rest of the vehicle is in great shape. 4x4 works, interior and exterior are good as well. They just replaced the rear end a few months ago too.
I am going to tow it tomorrow and will have about $1000 invested fo rthe whole thing included the tow bill for the 60 mile treck.
Any input on that pushrod will be most appreciated.
Thanks
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,222
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
AC:
If indeed the only issue is a bent pushrod, then sounds like your getting a good deal.
The question to be answered though, is how did that push rod get bent??? This type of damage would seem to indicate possibly more serious valvetrain problems.
To replace the rod is not a hard task. You simply remove the valve cover on the offending side, unbolt the rocker arm, and lift the rod out. For reinstallation, you will want to make sure there is no other visible damage to the valve, valvespring, or rocker arm.
If not, I would dip the new rod into some fresh oil, then insert it into the head. You will need to make sure the bottom end of it is seated properly in its lifter.
Once this is done, reinstall the rocker arm and torque the nut to the proper foot pounds spec.
If I were you, I would remove them all on that side one at a time, and roll them across a known flat surface to see if you hear any clicking.
If there is clicking, that one is bent as well.
Hopefully this motor will not turn out to be one that has had the crap run out of it, and is on its last legs.
Don
If indeed the only issue is a bent pushrod, then sounds like your getting a good deal.
The question to be answered though, is how did that push rod get bent??? This type of damage would seem to indicate possibly more serious valvetrain problems.
To replace the rod is not a hard task. You simply remove the valve cover on the offending side, unbolt the rocker arm, and lift the rod out. For reinstallation, you will want to make sure there is no other visible damage to the valve, valvespring, or rocker arm.
If not, I would dip the new rod into some fresh oil, then insert it into the head. You will need to make sure the bottom end of it is seated properly in its lifter.
Once this is done, reinstall the rocker arm and torque the nut to the proper foot pounds spec.
If I were you, I would remove them all on that side one at a time, and roll them across a known flat surface to see if you hear any clicking.
If there is clicking, that one is bent as well.
Hopefully this motor will not turn out to be one that has had the crap run out of it, and is on its last legs.
Don
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Thankfully, I am going to have a good "helper" once we get it to town. A good "friend" has a shop in town and they build racing engines. Now I wonder how many favors he owes me now? (HA) I am probably the one that owes many a favor to them now. I may call him tonight and see if I can just go ahead have it towed there in case we have more issues than just a pushrod.
I do appreciate the input there. I was worried about all the OHV stuff on the newer models and wasn't sure if this was one or if I had lucked up and had regular everyday valve covers that can actually be worked on.
Thanks again
Chris
I do appreciate the input there. I was worried about all the OHV stuff on the newer models and wasn't sure if this was one or if I had lucked up and had regular everyday valve covers that can actually be worked on.
Thanks again
Chris
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,222
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
Chris:
The 5.2/5.9 are old school cam in block/overhead valve technology.
Kind of a bittersweet deal IMO. With the older tech, there are many more upgrade parts out there. OTOH, my 4.7 has no plug wires, no distributor, and coil on plug ignition aas well as an overhead cam on each head.
The difference between the two is a whopping 10hp, and ~40 foot pounds of torque.
Pretty good for 4.7 liters.
Don
The 5.2/5.9 are old school cam in block/overhead valve technology.
Kind of a bittersweet deal IMO. With the older tech, there are many more upgrade parts out there. OTOH, my 4.7 has no plug wires, no distributor, and coil on plug ignition aas well as an overhead cam on each head.
The difference between the two is a whopping 10hp, and ~40 foot pounds of torque.
Pretty good for 4.7 liters.
Don
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
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From: Riverton, UT
True but, it's still hp and torque....He He He
Besides that, it is so easy to work on the 5.2L and 5.9L. They are all old school. I can have the heads off my truck in 2 hours. It's not hard at all to get that push rod replaced. This brings up a great point. Why the hell is it bent anyway???? I have not seen any for a long time bent???? This could have happened with a head gasket issue????
I am wondering about a tappet or a valve problem. The other issue it could be is lack of lubricant. There are oil jackets that run through the head that the oil falls back to the pan. Build up can get into these jackets if the motor wasn't properly taken care of. But even then it would get lubricant on the head???? I guess all I have is questions right now????
Regardless of the fact; $1000 bucks for a D is great. Even if you have to rebuild the motor you are still looking at cheap $. For instance, if a OEM builder/remanufacture like NAPA or something rebuilds your bottom end you are looking at about $700 and absolutely no more than $700 for new heads. So gasket set (do good ones) $200 you are into this power house for $2600 and you know what you got. If the motor needs rebuilt you can do OEM or the best thing is; put some major ***** in it like I did.........
