Suspension Q
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Professional
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Niles Illinois
Funny thing is is that we barely do anything to keep it going. Oil changes are usually a few hundred over which is not a big deal but the trans fluid is on my list to do because it hasn't been done in anyone's recent memory at least over 60k. The fluid is not burnt but it isnt red either it looks like water with a slight tint of orange.
Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 579
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From: Dallas, Tx
DRO318 the truck has a minor squeak in the front right when bounced. It is not noticeable when driving only when i bounce it. Would you think this as the control arm bushings or maybe just the sway bar bushings which i read a usually faulty and mine are the originals. I think my first repair will be the shocks all around.
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Bilstien is the way to go, trust it is worth the money.
You will never have the fac ride quality if you chose the aftermarket route.
As far as the suspension, I would start with the shocks fist as well.
The squeak can be either of the bushings. Although I lean more tward the C arm bushings, but others have had it been the sway bar.
I bought Energy Suspension sway bar bushings from auto zone for less than 30 bucks. You may want to replace the end links while your down there, they are cheap as well
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I just want to say with shock you pay for what you get with shocks.
Bilstien is the way to go, trust it is worth the money.
You will never have the fac ride quality if you chose the aftermarket route.
As far as the suspension, I would start with the shocks fist as well.
The squeak can be either of the bushings. Although I lean more tward the C arm bushings, but others have had it been the sway bar.
I bought Energy Suspension sway bar bushings from auto zone for less than 30 bucks. You may want to replace the end links while your down there, they are cheap as well
Bilstien is the way to go, trust it is worth the money.
You will never have the fac ride quality if you chose the aftermarket route.
As far as the suspension, I would start with the shocks fist as well.
The squeak can be either of the bushings. Although I lean more tward the C arm bushings, but others have had it been the sway bar.
I bought Energy Suspension sway bar bushings from auto zone for less than 30 bucks. You may want to replace the end links while your down there, they are cheap as well
You can get a set of Bilstein HDs for about $250-$260 total including shipping.
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Niles Illinois
Yep this all sounds good. Ill replace the shocks and sway bar bushings/ links within the next few weeks before it gets too cold. While this truck used to get 30-35k miles per year it now only gets about 6-8k since my dad got a company car. From my experience the monroe's are good on the quality for their price. I believe that the monroe's will last at least 30k. We have them on 4 out of 6 cars. We would be more than satisfied if it gets to 200k without losing the trans or engine or rusting too badly.
Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Dallas, Tx
shocks
How's that red top batt. I left my lights on plenty of times and it's still runnin strong. guess it's the reserve it has. it's over 3 years old.
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Riverton, UT
[andyg;1431192]A few more bits I should add before I forget. The front tires seem to be wearing slightly irregulary, just a little more wear on the outside edges. I would assume that new shocks and getting it aligned would sort that issue out?
monroe reflexes or Bilsteins
Might want to get those controll arm bushings fixed.
Last edited by hydrashocker; Oct 16, 2008 at 01:50 PM.
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Professional
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From: Niles Illinois
[QUOTE=hydrashocker;1431912]
Ya the tire with the most irregular wear loses pressure but the other side is fine and shows a slight amount of irregular wear. I'll look into the control arm bushings. Since I'm doing all the work myself we are keeping the cost down so I might replace them. Would I only need to replace the upper bushings? Those for sure are worn. Is disassembly of the durango's supension as easy as it appears? I don't want to run into any unexpected problems when I go to do it.
Also if im tearing into it this much, should I go ahead and replace the outer tie rods while I'm at it? They are also factory pieces with 170k on them. I shouldnt need to do the ball joints because they were done on the recall and there don't seem to be any issues there.
A few more bits I should add before I forget. The front tires seem to be wearing slightly irregulary, just a little more wear on the outside edges. I would assume that new shocks and getting it aligned would sort that issue out? quote]
Most likely it is the shocks. But considering the sway bar bushings are that old they need replacing because body roll might have something to do with it. Lastly, what about the tire perssure? If the tire pressure is too low then it will ware on both sides. If there is too much pressure then it will ware in the middle. If there is ware on the sides, feathering, or rasping surfaces then this is usually aglinment.
Probably your best choises.
Might want to get those controll arm bushings fixed.
Most likely it is the shocks. But considering the sway bar bushings are that old they need replacing because body roll might have something to do with it. Lastly, what about the tire perssure? If the tire pressure is too low then it will ware on both sides. If there is too much pressure then it will ware in the middle. If there is ware on the sides, feathering, or rasping surfaces then this is usually aglinment.
Probably your best choises.
Might want to get those controll arm bushings fixed.
Ya the tire with the most irregular wear loses pressure but the other side is fine and shows a slight amount of irregular wear. I'll look into the control arm bushings. Since I'm doing all the work myself we are keeping the cost down so I might replace them. Would I only need to replace the upper bushings? Those for sure are worn. Is disassembly of the durango's supension as easy as it appears? I don't want to run into any unexpected problems when I go to do it.
Also if im tearing into it this much, should I go ahead and replace the outer tie rods while I'm at it? They are also factory pieces with 170k on them. I shouldnt need to do the ball joints because they were done on the recall and there don't seem to be any issues there.
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Small but VERY powerful. Has like 1000 cca and much smaller than the 850 cca battery that I took out. They are sealed also so you can mount it in any direction that you want.