5.9L, Also 46RE, 4x4, w/lockup converter. Little history. Durango was running fine but had a check engine light for lockup converter, think it was 1740. Looking into it, thought the clutches in the converter were shot. Pulled the transmission pan, no pieces of metal at all. Think a little black sludge on a magnet, probably normal. Ordered a Hughes converter from Summit. Had to be back ordered so it took a while. Got it, looked just like the oem. Tried to install it, torque converter kept getting almost impossable to turn. Had to elongate one of the bolt holes in the flex plate to bolt up to the torque converter. Used the holes in the flex plate to turn the engine over. So bent up the sensor holes in the flex plate a little, didn't know the sensor read those holes at the time. So the converter wasn't for a 46RE even though my Summit receipt said it was. Should have gone to the Hughes website and figured this out long before. Has one less or more teeth on the furthest in gear of the converter. So Summit took the converter back and shipped one for a 46RE with lockup.
Converter installed without to much trouble. Turned over but wouldn't start. I had screwed up the holes in the flex plate, after some time and effort, found I had broken the crankshaft position sensor. Got a new one from Auto Zone, Durablast. Installed it and Durango started but just barely ran like it was on 5 cylinders. Checked fuel pressure at the rail, about 42 pounds, think that is at the lower limit, probably enough so it should idle ok. Started a few times but then quit starting. Finally replaced the PCM with a reprogramed one. Sputtered once but that's it.
Bought a new flexplate from Chrysler, p/n 4863841. I think that is the correct pn but there are a few different p/n's of those. I was concerned about getting the little hole, appeared to be an alignment hole in the right spot and the bolt pattern, along with the alignment hole, seemed to match up. A crank position sensor hole appeared to be in the same spot on both but due to trying to make sure I got the correct alignment, I never set one on top of the other to get a match. Then bolting flex plate to converter, couldn't quite get a bolt up align. Tried rotating the converter to each hole on the plate. So started elonging a bolt hole without thinking. It does seem to be the same for the firing and that is the main concern for the moment. I'm not sure if I needed to elongate the bolt hole or if the threads weren't a little frogged up in the converter at this point.
So doesn't start or even try to. Looked at a lot of things for weeks and reading these forums to see what others were doing. So was looking at the spark closer while cranking and its intermittant, sometimes 3 sparks in a row, sometimes not one spark for 10 revolutions. Checked the resistance of the coil, low voltage terminals are about 0.8 or 0.9 ohms and the high voltage to low are around 10 kohms. So, among other things, I look at the pulses of the crankshaft position sensor on the oscilloscope again. I only have a tech drawing showing the trace for a magnetic or a hall effect sensor. This one is supposed to be a hall effect with a magnet so didn't know what to expect for a trace. Trace showed a negative 5 vdc spike, then positive for 2 to 5 vdc, usually around 5, then ramps down to 0 vdc. Finally took the sensor back to Auto Zone, could only get a replacement Durablast. Installed it, still the same, crank and crank, odometer starts flashing, then it comes up, no bus, after about 30 to 45 seconds of cranking. So for the heck of it I hook the scope to look at the crankshaft position sensor output again. Got a surprise, nice clean square wave, expanded the time base and I have a complete set of clean square waves across the screen. So the other new sensor was defective but engine still won't start. Did replace the dist. cap and rotor but the sparkes are rare from the hv coil out. Did look at the cam sensor on a analog voltmeter, goes up and down like a turn signal while engine is cranking so that is probably ok. Have swapped that shutdown relay with the one just like it. Checked all the fuses. Only thing was the O2 fuse inside on the side of the dash is ok but not getting voltage with the ignition on. The fuel pump sounds ok besides I have 42 psi at the rail. Have a vacuum line that appears to go through the firewall to run the heater/ac vents is cut off and plugged. Don't see how that could cause any trouble like I have. Still am getting a small fraction of the sparks I should be getting?????? Someone told me that he would cut this Durango into little pieces now but seems like I almost have it.???? Last week I was looking at 12 volts to the ignition coil, goes to +12 when you turn the key on but then drops to 0 volts.????

 

Break that post down into smaller segments. No one is going to read that as is.

Also, change the title to something other than a 5.0 Ford motor indication.

Use paragraphs and concise Q&A and you will get much better results.

IndyD

 

Guess the next step would be to check the crank and cam sensor pulses at the PCM harness connector. Have been checking them at their connections back by the distributor.

 

Was looking at the intermittant spark plug fire and the pulses the PCM was sending to the negative side of the coil. Decided the computer was seeing something in the secondary ignition and not fireing the coil. Wire diagram shows the negative side of the coil is direct wired to the PCM, also, the plus side is connected directly to 12 vdc at the PCM, same 12 vdc goes to all 8 injectors. So replaced the ignition coil, plug wires, and spark plugs. Have a steady even spark now but the engine still won't fire. Hooked the scope up to the injectors and it looks like both wires are 12 vdc with no pulses. Maybe I have to sync the timing between the #1 plug and the cam sensor? Maybe the before O2 sensor was damaged trying to start or when it was running badly? First should disconnect the battery and discharge the caps to make sure the PCM hasn't stopped the fuel injectors?

 

I would say you really ****ed something up Just my 2 cents

 

Been a while.
The PCM I got from Computer Exchange was bad.
Got another reprogrammed PCM and Durango started.
Still "no bus" message on the odometer.
Posted this "no bus" problem on 'Just Answer' forum.
Dodge mechanic told me to disconnect each module and hook the battery back up, to find the one pulling the bus down. Didn't work in this case.
Took it to "Teeds Automotive" in Endicott, NY. They found an open wire in the computer bus just behind the right front headlight. Computer bus is a two wire bus the 6 modules in the vehicle use to talk to each other. No reason for it, harness was well protected, anchored, and no damage to vehicle in that area or any area, no work had been done in that area either.

Computer bus is working normally now. So if you are tracking a "no bus" error I would do a continuity check between the modules also. Good luck.

 

P1740 TCC or OD Sol Perf A rationality error has been detected in either the TCC
solenoid or overdrive solenoid systems.
P1740 (M) TCC OR O/D Solenoid Performance Problem detected in transmission convertor clutch and/or
overdrive circuits (diesel engine with 4-speed auto. trans.
only
might have been a bad transmission solenoid?the second listing is only for diesels.
either or sounds like ya got your nightmare fixed.