HELP 98 engine misfire, cut out.
 

Ok, I have a 98 durango with a 5.2L 318. I had a code that was for a cyl.5 misfire. I changed the plugs (gap to .040) wires (routed properly) cap, rotor, and had the fuell lines and injector service done. The truck still is acting up. It will act like it is starving for gas, and sometimes backfire spit and sputter. kind of acts like an EGR but the vehicle dosent have one. I also looked down the intake and it is dry, so i don't suspect that there is an intake leak.
PLEASE tell me that there is someone out there that can help me. I have read others with the same, or close to the same problem but don't post what fixed it.
ps, the truck has only stalled out twice, and seemp to do it more often after the vehicle has been warmed up although it will do it on a cold engine also. when it starts to cut out (like it is loseing fuel) I will tromp on the gas and it will take off, most of the time.

1. Your battery may be going bad (yes believe it or not this cold be the problem, try a known good battery and see if that helps)
2. TPS
3. PCM

basically there are a lot of things that can make that cylider miss. Leaky injector, clogged injector, bad injector coil, low compression, preignition in that cylinder, valve burnt, bad valve seat, coil, grounding or power signal from ecm to fire the cynder, bad wire from fuse to injector, pinched harness, rubbed through harness, leaking intake, blown headgasket, cracked head, and so on

schusterjo is right
I want to say that it very well could be the wires since you have the miss fire in cylinder 5. I say that because I had the same issue with mine except I had cylinders 1, 5, 8 miss firing are any of your wires touching the engine? if so that will cause this very issue you are having. :cool:

Well, 2 yrs ago I did a tune up, I just put the spark wires on not knowing that it mattered on the routing. I did all mentioned above and installed the wires acording to the routing specifics. I'll have the alternator checked and the battery.
ps keep the ideas coming guys.

what is a TPS? I had a mechanic in town do a fuel system cleaning. I'm going to have the injector flow tested, I don't notice any pinging sound at idle, under a load or just cruising. it dosent use any oil, no water in the oil, and nothing out the tail pipes. I don't think that it is the intake because when I looked inside I didn't see anything that would lead me to suspect that.
thanks for the input, and I'll try some of the other ideas you have.

You can purchase single spark plug wires at autozone. they are cheap maybe you could try one out for your miss fire in cylinder 5.

I only had the light come on 1 time. I went out on it's own. then I did the tune up. New wires and all. The chk. engine light has not come on yet (don't know why) but the vehicle is running the same way. I just wish the light would come back on so I can get some info.

If the light came on the information still would be stored in the computer, even if the light went out on its own... You need to head on up to Autozone and have them pull the codes for you, free..

By the way TPS is for "Throttle position sensor", it is on the side of the throttle body...

Again there is many things that it could be. Need to try to pull any codes you can and start eliminating 1 by 1.

The code is not there anymore. I did not have it removed, and don't know where it went. the mechanic who I know ant trust cant find it. I did read that they can wipe them selves out after 25 start cycles. not real sure about that though.

If you installed any other plug besides Champion Copper (OEM) Champion Truck, or Champion Iridium plugs that could do it for sure.

well,I just talked to my mechanic. He said that he did a flow test and OHM on the injector, and got a misfire code on cyl 5&7 he then hooked up his scan tool and took it for a drive and almost right away got a flash for cyl. 5/7. the all of the cyl. misfired. he went back to the shop hooked up another machine to do a compression test and all cyl. are 98-100%. But, did notice that the timing was 2deg off so he adjusted that. He said that wasn't what was giving me my perticular problems but adjusted it anyway. He cleaned off the battery terminals. He knows that the cam sensor goes bad in them, but thinks that this may be the coil. I am going to replace it tonight and will let you know what I find out soon.

ps- I have autolight plat. for spark plugs. I had Champion in there they only had about 15,000mi. on them at the very most. the engine is running the exact same way with the two different brand of plugs.
plugs are cheap enough to fix. why do you feel that the plugs may still be an issue? the champs. that I pulled out looked good yet and the gap was still ok.
thanks-

Just make sure you update us... This way it helps everybody out..

Well, it's not the flipn' coil.:mad: So, does any body think that maybe I should try to replace my pick up coil? or the crank senser? I will replace the plugs to champion's. with all the trouble people are having with this type of problem someone must have figured it out.
The problem mainly happens after the vehicle has been warmed up shut off then restarted. then it will "miss" taking off easy and when i am holding it at a low speed 15-40mph. it will stutter till i either let out of the throttle or stab it. if I am going down the street 55 or better it runs good. The vehicle has only stalled 1 time, and that was when I was letting it warm up in the driveway. it started to stutter then stalled. I thought that if it was the crank senser that it would be stalling more often then have problems starting.
thanks for the replies. I will take every suggestion into consideration and I WILL LET PEOPLE KNOW WHAT I FIND OUT. This thing is making me gray before my time.

Depends if it was a soft code or a hard code.

A soft code can go out right away and is not REALLY logged into the PCM. Now on the other hand, hard codes are logged in but can reset after 12 starts and 48 miles. Depends on the problem and whats going on.

Why do you recomend only champion plugs?? I have used autolights before (in other vehicles) and had great luck with them. I believe you, will I be ok with these plugs for a couple of days. I wont be able to change them out till plobably monday. I have autolight plats. in it now. before these I had champ's in it that I put in on the last tune up.

Sorry I didn't see that this went onto a page 2.........LOL

Ok,

Do this:

Lets start form scratch..... Stop trying to figure this out and lesson to me.
1. GET THOSE PLUGS OUT OF THERE! Yes you can change them in a day or two. Just remember that if it's running crapy then it's leaving deposits. Pull those POS and go to the store and get Champion Copper Plugs (OEM) or CHampion Truck Plugs. You could use the Champion Iridium Plugs but I would wait for now. Gap to .044
2. This motor dose not run Platinum. This motor is very picky.
3. Go to the dealer and get some spark plug wires. ONLY USE THESE FOR NOW! We can make it perform later.
4. Go to Auto Zone or where ever you like and get a cap and rotor that have brass contacts. They are a few bucks more.
5. Fuel Pressure Test. Make sure you have at least 50+ psi or replace the pump (in tank) which includes the regulator, and filter all in one unit. (just a suggestion)

Try that first. Get what I said only........

If that doesn't work,

5. Pull the Throttle Body off and clean that thing out! Pull all the sensors. Drivers side is TPS (Throttle Body Sensor) Front is the MAP sensor, and rear is the IAS sensor. You can clean the IAS carefully and all ports on the TB. Get a new gasket and reinstall the TB.

6. Buy new TPS and tune it in by the following Modification. Also a bit of other info.
Throttle Position Sensor Replacement for RPM surging and/or engine idle issues.
https://dodgeforum.com/m_53303/tm.htm
https://dodgeforum.com/m_1059612/...tm.htm#1059612


Throttle Position Sensor Modification for increased Performance.
http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm#TPS_Mod

7. If we get there........

I am thinking since this only happens after the engine has warmed up that the coolant temp sensor could be the culprit. It sounds like it may be leaning out the fuel if it is reading the temp as too hot when it is right on.

I forgot to mention that I had my mechanic run a check on the temp sensor the entire time the engine was running while doing the fuel system cleaning. It checked out fine. on occasion is will sputter while cold (warming up in the morning). Some of the may be the TPS. I looked at the links that the other guy gave me. my D would have a throttle surge whith the cruise on. That was nice to find out.:) But thanks for the suggestion.
I welcome any suggestion that yall have and will take every one of them into consideration, and WILL post my findings.
I wont get to the vehicle till prolly Monday or tues as we just had about 5" of snow and the wind today is blowing like a mo fo.
I CANT WAIT TILL SPRING!!!!!!!!!!!!

I had this last summer on my 98, found that one of my wires was touching the manifold and it caused it to spit sputter miss and just act all crazy.

Hope it helps.

If I were you I would try to swap #5 and #7 injectors to a different spot and see if the problem follows them, if it does then replace them.

Na,

It seems like everytime a missfire is around I always see # 5 or #7 when it is a bad plug, wires, or routing problem.

It is a good idea to rule it out tho.

That's why I stick to the wires because a couple wires touching any metal parts under the hood can give the same symptoms :cool:
I know he just did a tune up but if the wires are or have at anytime have touched metal they can go bad quick. or maybe he bought a couple bad wires. I have always noticed the wires will throw a code before the plugs ??? why I don't know

Dro when wires go bad it is from the insulation wearing away. When that happens it gives the electrical pulse an easier way out (grounding on the block) rather than continuing its path to the spark plug and causing it to fire. You just have to remember that electricity always takes the path of least resistance. When plugs go bad they are usually still able to fire but not good enough to get the fuel to burn well.

My thoughts exactly... so then when the wires sit on the block or manifold it burns the insulation thus creating that very problem

Eh those wires are made for those kind of temps. It is more vibration than anything that causes the premature wear when they are riding on the block/valves covers.

swaping the injectors wont help me. I am not getting a code. so it will keep doing it and I wont know.
My mechanic had it hooked up to a hand held. Took it for a drive showed misfire on cyl. 5&7 then all misfire.

sorry all, I have been sick and just now was able to try a few things to the D.
hydrashocker, I took your advice and switched the plugs back to the champion copper. they are gaped proper, plug wires good, and roted properally...
I looked at the links that you had set up in an earlier post and found that my symptoms with my cruise controll to be the same as the others. changed out the TPS and the D is running fine on cruise (no surging). But, the origional problem still exists. I cleaned the intake so that is good. The mechanic said that the fuel pump is ok.
So, as of today the D has 98-100% compression, new TPS, clean intake and componets that have to do with that, plugs (champion and gaped) wires (routed properally), cap, rotor, Battery checked out good, had a check run on the temp. sensor while running the fuel system cleaning that was ok, checked the injectors and flow tested, I changed out the ignition coil, and today I changed out the distributor pick up coil(cam sensor). The only thing that I believe I have left to check/change is the crank position sensor.
ANY OTHER IDEAS OUT THERE??????
thanks

I almost forgot I also had a check done on the cat. and it is ok.

do any of the wires have burn marks on them?
Also are any of the wires touching the engine?

No, and No. They still look new (as they are only a couple of weeks old) and have the shields on them for added protection.

sounds good

What wires do you have on it and how old??????


Also a intake leak or stuck valve could be the culprite. Lets not go there tho.....

dodge wires 2weeks old. if it were a stuck valve wouldn't I have the problem across the rpm range?? From what I can tell I don't believe that it is an intake leak. Wouldn't that cause the fuel to lean out and get engine ping? it doesnt ping. Yesterday I went to go drive it drove 50mi. or so and no problems. shut off the engine for an hour or so went to leave and on an easy accelleration at about 30mph it started to chug backfire and cut out. I tried to let it keep going to see if it wold throw a code but the thing just took off running fine. it doesnt do it at cruising speed 55-75mph at all. or if taking off fast. only if being easy on it and between 15-35mph or so. it it does start to act up all I have to do is gun it and it's fine.

Try this, I learned this trick from the guys @ firestone.
1. In an open space put it in park
2. Then put it in drive.
3. Floor it for about 50 feet.
4 then slam on the break.
5. Just when you come to a complete stop turn it off, then turn it back on.

This is what they do here in Tx to throw codes for emissions testing :cool:

-K-

This is what I'm thinking.

It could be a fuel pump or regulator. Do a presure test on the outlet on the drivers side port on the fuel rail. It should be a least 50psi. New is 54psi.

The crankshaft sensor is the pickup sensor located under the distributor.

The weird thing is the first post you did. It just throws everything off? Almost sounds like a PCM.

When it acts like this is there any drop in voltage?

The crank sensor is located behind the engine by the tranny. I found that people call the pickup sensor and the cam sensor the same. also when I called Auto Zone they priced me for a pickup coil and a cam sensor.
I was hoping that it wouldn't be the PCM but it is a possibility.
I don't have anything to test the fuel presure so I'll need the mechanic to do that.
If it were the fuel pump or regulator, wouldn't I have problems all the time?? I mean, that if it were a low fuell presure problem and it starts to act up and I mash on the throttle wouldn't it get worse?? In this case it makes it run better.

I havent even looked. I will the next time.

I want this problem fixed. I miss my truck. and the wife misses her D.:D

I am working second shift (6pm-6am) the next 3 days. so, it will be a few before I get a chance to try anything.

sounds interesting. I'll give it a go!