I'm having a problem with the rear brakes on my 99 Durango 4x4. Sometimes while driving around town, the brakes will remain applied even after I release the brake pedal. It's not a complete application however, so the truck can still move around. But its hard enough so the truck will not roll forward or backwards on it's own while on a flat surface and while in gear. I also have to noticeably apply extra gas to move the truck.

When the brakes remain applied while driving, you can really smell the brake dust after driving a few miles from both rear wheels. Also the rear wheels get very very hot.

A couple months ago I replaced the shoes, cylinders, and springs/hardware for both rear brakes because I was having a similar problem. It turned out that both of the old cylinders were leaking and therefore not returning to center when the pedal was released. Being that I now have new cylinders I doubt I'm having the same problem.

When bleeding the brakes after the previous brake job, the fluid seemed to flow normally. So I don't think there is a clog. So any idea what the problem might be? Bad master cylinder or proportioning valve?

I am also noticing that I need to apply the brakes much harder to stop the truck. I mean I really have to step on the pedal to get her to stop moving. If I need to make a quick stop, the front brakes lock up completely almost every time. Can this info help determine the rear brake problem?

Any ideas on where to start looking will be greatly appreciated.

 

There is a T valve that splits the presure to each side from the middle of the axel, or how about the adjusters?

Heat on the shoes is creating the hard stopping.

 

Both sides are equally locking up so I doubt it's the T valve. OR do you mean the T valve is actually NOT allowing fluid to return when pedal is released?

The rear brakes don't always lock up. They will do it at least once or twice during every drive however, there are times during ever drive that the brakes release normally. If they were over adjusted via the brake adjuster, wouldn't they always lock up regardless?

 

If something is hanging up on the adjusters somehow it could hold them open. Check this out on the dowels:

brakes!!!

Also do a search in this section and there is some more info on "rear brakes" using this: Advanced Search

Check the lines going all the way back for a crimp.

 

Thanks for the article. All the brake hardware is only 2-3 months old including the dowels. I investigated that rubber line going into the proportioning valve above the rear diff. and it looks a little corroded. I grabbed the line and started to move it around. When I did so, I heard the shoes inside the brake drums moving as well. So I suspect the inside of the rubber line and/or the valve/splitter itself to be shot. I'm going to pick up a new one from NAPA tomorrow and replace it. Let's hope that fixes it.

 

i Had the exact same issue with my 99! It is the hose going to the rear brakes. it runs over the pumpkin. I would bet my paycheck on it!! I replaced everything under the sun as far as the brakes go untl i figured it out. be very careful replacing, I ended up replacing all the lines due to corrosion, they snapped right off when i tried to disconnect them from the hose. I was able to get the part from an auto parts store as it wasn't just a dealer item. Good LUck!!

 

Replaceing the rubber line with valve seemed to fix the problem. Going on 2 days now since the fix and no locking up as of yet. Bonz was righ... I had to replace the metal brake line traveling underneath the truck as well. When I tried to unscrew the nut going into the rubber line, the whole brake line twisted as well. Oh well.. now I have a nice new painted brake line installed. Thanks for all your help.