New Oxygen Sensor, Rerouted Wires now I get p1032
Post #1
Hi everyone,
I am hoping I can get some other gear heads to help me out here. I have a 2000 4.7 Durango. Recently my Power Steering Pressure Switch went bad and as many of you know it shot Fluid into my harness and eventually it reached my o2 sensor. That caused my mileage to drop and exhaust to stink.
So after much research I decided I would just reroute most of the cables and run new ones to the PCM. I picked up the universal Bosch o2 Sensor for the upstream and a Bosch OEM for the back.
The Upstream sensor consists of 4 wires: (18 gauge)
================================================== ======
1. OR/DG - Fused Auto Shut Down Relay Output - Cut this from original contaminated harness and connected to "white wire" on bosch o2. (Bosch calls it a heated wire)
2. BK - Ground ==> Ran new wire to harness 1 by PCM and connected using crimp style onto BK/TN (Ground). From looking at the diagrams this is the source of the contamination!
3. BK/LB - Sensor Ground (This is the PCM ground) ==> Ran new wire to harness 1 by PCM and connected to BK/LB at PCM (Sensor Ground).
4. LG/RD - Oxygen Sensor 1/1 Signal ==> Ran new wire to harness 1 by PCM connected to LG/RD wire using a butt connector (I didn't solder because I read something about oxygen and the sensor needing it)
I actually was documenting the whole process so everyone out there could fix it themselves. But as opf right now my tutorial is a failure.
After putting everything back and taking a ride I got an engine light on. Code "p0132" aka "O2 Sensor Shorted To Voltage Oxygen sensor input voltage".
I can't for the life of me figure out why this code has popped up. I took a short trip and once I started to get home the truck felt like it was about to stall. I put my foot on the gas and it was just totally about to shut off.
Suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
Hi everyone,
I am hoping I can get some other gear heads to help me out here. I have a 2000 4.7 Durango. Recently my Power Steering Pressure Switch went bad and as many of you know it shot Fluid into my harness and eventually it reached my o2 sensor. That caused my mileage to drop and exhaust to stink.
So after much research I decided I would just reroute most of the cables and run new ones to the PCM. I picked up the universal Bosch o2 Sensor for the upstream and a Bosch OEM for the back.
The Upstream sensor consists of 4 wires: (18 gauge)
================================================== ======
1. OR/DG - Fused Auto Shut Down Relay Output - Cut this from original contaminated harness and connected to "white wire" on bosch o2. (Bosch calls it a heated wire)
2. BK - Ground ==> Ran new wire to harness 1 by PCM and connected using crimp style onto BK/TN (Ground). From looking at the diagrams this is the source of the contamination!
3. BK/LB - Sensor Ground (This is the PCM ground) ==> Ran new wire to harness 1 by PCM and connected to BK/LB at PCM (Sensor Ground).
4. LG/RD - Oxygen Sensor 1/1 Signal ==> Ran new wire to harness 1 by PCM connected to LG/RD wire using a butt connector (I didn't solder because I read something about oxygen and the sensor needing it)
I actually was documenting the whole process so everyone out there could fix it themselves. But as opf right now my tutorial is a failure.
After putting everything back and taking a ride I got an engine light on. Code "p0132" aka "O2 Sensor Shorted To Voltage Oxygen sensor input voltage".
I can't for the life of me figure out why this code has popped up. I took a short trip and once I started to get home the truck felt like it was about to stall. I put my foot on the gas and it was just totally about to shut off.
Suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
part one of the problem is that you used a universal sensor, never use a universal sensor that you need to splice into the wire, you should NEVER have to cut your factory wiring harness to REPLACE a sensor, they should ALWAYS be plug-n-play, so my advice is to go get the correct O2 sensor for the truck and if you got rid of the part of your wiring harness you bypassed you will need to go get one from a junk yard and put the plug back on where it belongs.
Also, after you replace any sensors you should disconnect the battery (neg terminal only) and hold the key on start for 30-60 seconds to drain the charge from the system and "reset" the PCM so that it can relearn the correct parameters for running your truck, hope this helps
-Shrpshtr
Also, after you replace any sensors you should disconnect the battery (neg terminal only) and hold the key on start for 30-60 seconds to drain the charge from the system and "reset" the PCM so that it can relearn the correct parameters for running your truck, hope this helps
-Shrpshtr
Your harness should be sealed, the wires inside should not short out unless they are freyed even if power stearing fluid has breached the harness... I would use the factory sensor and troubleshoot from there.
Guys thanks for the input.
Originally I went with the plug and play harness from Bosch (OEM style connector). I then did a short drive and unplugged the sensor and noticed there was still liquid in the line. So it was at the point I said I'll just run new cables. Looked at the diagrams and matched all my cables up correctly.
I also read a few other threads and people mentioned that they had successfully used the Bosch universal and run the cables upto the PCM.
Soden, you mentioned that the harness should be sealed. The new wires I put in are def not damaged or freyed and there in there own wire loom. I left the wires I ran without heat shrink. I did this because I wanted to make sure the new wires were working correctly before I sealed it up.
Could leaving the signal wire with just the butt connector be causing p1032?
I am starting to suspect that the sensor is just not up to snuff. I also replaced the rear o2 with the Bosch OEM sensor. No error messages coming from that as of yet.
Originally I went with the plug and play harness from Bosch (OEM style connector). I then did a short drive and unplugged the sensor and noticed there was still liquid in the line. So it was at the point I said I'll just run new cables. Looked at the diagrams and matched all my cables up correctly.
I also read a few other threads and people mentioned that they had successfully used the Bosch universal and run the cables upto the PCM.
Soden, you mentioned that the harness should be sealed. The new wires I put in are def not damaged or freyed and there in there own wire loom. I left the wires I ran without heat shrink. I did this because I wanted to make sure the new wires were working correctly before I sealed it up.
Could leaving the signal wire with just the butt connector be causing p1032?
I am starting to suspect that the sensor is just not up to snuff. I also replaced the rear o2 with the Bosch OEM sensor. No error messages coming from that as of yet.
Hi all. I realize this and old discussion but I thought I would share how I fixed this problem in my 2000 Durango so that maybe others won't spend a ton of money trying to fix it...
First, I did A LOT of research and happened upon this forum which is where I got the idea to check my own vehicle. I was getting the p0171 and p0172 codes. Terrible gas mileage and black soot spewing from the tail pipe...
I also read of some people using a bypass wire to go straight from the O2 sensor to the PCM. I personally don't like doing that since the chance is there of blowing the PCM. And this is much easier.
What I did was simple and pretty cheap.
If you are new to this, MAKE SURE YOU GET AN O2 SENSOR REMOVAL TOOL!!! They make the job much easier since apparently Dodge wasn't thinking when they were drawing the design out of where everything will go...
First I replaced the Power Steering Switch of course.
Next I replaced BOTH the up and down stream O2 sensors. The 2nd may not be necessary but I chose to because of how much soot was passing through the system.
While they were apart I cleaned the harness connectors very well with some Brake Cleaner.
I then applied some liquid electric tape, use Starbrite brand if you can, others tend to harden to concrete over time, to the harness side of the connector to reduce wicking into the connector.
I then applied some Dielectric grease to the inside of the connector. Be sure not to use to much and disconnect and connect the connector a few times to make sure there is metal on metal contact or you may get false codes.
Next I cut a small drain hole into the harness jacket to allow any PS fluid to possibly drain before reaching the connector.
After reassembling and letting the old built up soot wear out I have had no more problems. I have put over 1000 miles on it with no Check Engine light. Gas mileage is back up and no more soot...
Total cost was about $250 and a couple hours of my time.
Hope this helps someone out there...
First, I did A LOT of research and happened upon this forum which is where I got the idea to check my own vehicle. I was getting the p0171 and p0172 codes. Terrible gas mileage and black soot spewing from the tail pipe...
I also read of some people using a bypass wire to go straight from the O2 sensor to the PCM. I personally don't like doing that since the chance is there of blowing the PCM. And this is much easier.
What I did was simple and pretty cheap.
If you are new to this, MAKE SURE YOU GET AN O2 SENSOR REMOVAL TOOL!!! They make the job much easier since apparently Dodge wasn't thinking when they were drawing the design out of where everything will go...
First I replaced the Power Steering Switch of course.
Next I replaced BOTH the up and down stream O2 sensors. The 2nd may not be necessary but I chose to because of how much soot was passing through the system.
While they were apart I cleaned the harness connectors very well with some Brake Cleaner.
I then applied some liquid electric tape, use Starbrite brand if you can, others tend to harden to concrete over time, to the harness side of the connector to reduce wicking into the connector.
I then applied some Dielectric grease to the inside of the connector. Be sure not to use to much and disconnect and connect the connector a few times to make sure there is metal on metal contact or you may get false codes.
Next I cut a small drain hole into the harness jacket to allow any PS fluid to possibly drain before reaching the connector.
After reassembling and letting the old built up soot wear out I have had no more problems. I have put over 1000 miles on it with no Check Engine light. Gas mileage is back up and no more soot...
Total cost was about $250 and a couple hours of my time.
Hope this helps someone out there...
PS I guess I forgot to follow up. I changed the sensor to the OEM Denso sensor. Everything was perfect from that point onward.
Running new wires and connecting them at the PCM is what the dealer does when you have this and they fix it. I would recommend running the wires, its very easy, and that fluid will NEVER drain out of the wire. Case in point in 2012 and I took a look at the old wire 5 months ago, still had the fluid in there. Its impossible to remove.
I would highly recommend everyone use the OEM Denso brand to prevent any issues regardless of whether you run and reuse your old wires.
Running new wires and connecting them at the PCM is what the dealer does when you have this and they fix it. I would recommend running the wires, its very easy, and that fluid will NEVER drain out of the wire. Case in point in 2012 and I took a look at the old wire 5 months ago, still had the fluid in there. Its impossible to remove.
I would highly recommend everyone use the OEM Denso brand to prevent any issues regardless of whether you run and reuse your old wires.








