Thanks for the info Fallin.


As for other posters, this subject is for a 318 or 360 Magnum (5.2L and 5.9L) engine. This is not a thread for Vans or others, now the Ram shares the same engine setup so that's different. But if people actually read this thread they will see this thread was designed around the normal parameters in what to expect, meaning the "abnormal", not normal. If you have a generic question please refrain from posting in this thread and instead post up you question in a new thread.

Thanks for your cooperation.

 

Thanks hydrashocker for all the input and trying to keep this thread on course. Point well put, for newcomers should go back and take in all that has been submitted on this thread before posting on the thread. As posted by myself on 1-11-2010 and updated yesterday, my cure was a combination of things brought up by others. I guees I was lucky to use a little old school engineering to easily clean my oil pickup screen without removing the pan and flushing with a good amount of diesel fuel.A important point brought up by you is the subject of changing the PCV. This simple cheap item is generally overlooked. All I can stand by, is my way of attacking this problem worked. (so far) 100,000mi. since fix and still no problem. Thanks

 

yup checked the oil level, thats fine. theres just no oil pressure when it gets temp. and thanks will do.

 

Sorry to bring this back to life but I have a question for you guys.

I just recently traded my Mustang for an 01 Dodge Durango 4.7L with 155,000 miles on it because I needed something more practical.

Well about halfway home on the 65 mile drive home I suddenly lost all oil pressure while going 65 mph on the highway. there were no ticks or rattles in the engine however. I pulled over immediately and shut off the car. I checked the oil and it was completely full. Started it back up and the oil pressure was back up halfway.

Started driving again and about 10 miles later, oil pressure drops to zero and the engine starts ticking and rattling. I again pulled over immediately and shut the car off. The engine oil still read full and there were no leaks under the truck. This time the oil pressure never came back up. So I had to leave the car on the side of the highway.

When I went the next day to tow it, I tried starting it again. She started right up and oil pressure was back up halfway and all the slapping and ticking was gone. But about 10 seconds later the pressure was gone and the ticking came back.

My question is; it has to be the oil pump, right?

Also, besides taking off the front axle what other components have to come out for the pump to be removed? I ask because I'm debating whether or not I should tackle this myself or have a pro do it. I don't have much mechanical experience so I think I might be in over my head. I did read the whole thread btw (very interesting).

Thanks in advance!

 

I'd put a mechanical pressure gauge on and see if the pressure is actually dropping or if it's just the sender.

 

Its sound like you do lose oil pressure with the sounds. I found it was my cam worn out. Oil pump could have a blockage in pick up line wear screen is. With 155,000 miles and not being a mechanic I would suggest motor swap. If you want to learn about your engine give check compression I do not know about the plenum pan in that 4.7 if it burns oil or sucks oil in to engine. Look at spark plugs, if clean then probably not issue. I am disable I rebuilt my own motor took out put back in my self not hard if you think before you move bag and label all screws and wires take pictures and make notes get a good manual it can be done. I do have some experience with mechanics. I found my cam was out .007 out of spec caused oil pressure to drop after engine warm on deceleration. and idle. you lose on while gas is on could be sludge blockage too. flush engine and look at oil pour some clean oil in to help while draining half pint. if next oil change is dirty instantly motor was not taken care of. You are going to be better off rebuilding or changing motor any way.

 

Grizzly01 , Sorry to hear of your misfortune. My fix was posted a page or two back and has solved my problem to date with no problem since. Here is the deal . I don't know if the 4.9l shares the same oil pan properties or not. You should be able to tell by pulling the drain plug and draining the oil and looking inside. If you see a long at least a inch of threads inside I'd say it does have the same problem. The oil in my 5.2 was incapable of completely draining due to the design of the pan. the last pint trapped is where the screen picks up the oil. and because the end of the nut blocks this last bit of oil it isn't capable of draining the heaviest dirt that settles in the pickup area. that dirt blocks the screen and loss of oil pressure occurs .I had the same symptoms driving along fine and a sudden loss of pressure . It happened frequently when I would turn a corner . My fix was to remove the pan and clean the suction screen and sump area. I opted for a high volume pump at that time but a regular would be fine . The nut that I refer to is on the inside and is what the oil plug screws into. I twisted mine off with a 7/8 socket on a swivel with a half inch impact air wrench. I moved the nut to the exterior of the pan and welded it in place . then I chased the threads after it cooled down with the proper tap. then reassembled it all. I am convinced this is the cure to 90% of the previous posts. I am a former ase master truck tech and have repaired/rebuilt more engines than I can remember from international /cat/cummins/ mack/ detroit/ford / chevy/dodge. Good luck on your findings.Submoa

 

That is very useful information submoa. I will be having a shop do the work, I will ask specifically to see the oil pan while its out to see if has the same nut on the inside. Thanks for the help.

 

Grizzly. go back to my original post #33. It was at 88,000. I now have 198,000 on our 98 Durango with no reoccurring problem. I am still using Castrol 10w30 HIGH MILEAGE which is now a synthetic blend. After reading negative comments on Fram filters, I have opted to a MOPAR MO 090 filter. Increased my operating rpm oil pressure one mark on my gauge. (app. 10 lbs) Oil changed at 3,500 - 4,000 mi. intervals.

6/8/2018 update. Durango now has 240,000mi on it. Been 10 years since my initial post No reoccurring oil pressure problems. I am using some oil now and contribute it to probably hard valve stem seals. Some posters mentioned pinging issues. If you are going on 200,00mi your due for a timing chain. You cant change the timing by rotating the distributor like the old days.

 

It wouldn't hurt to try that. I'll change out the oil filter either today or tomorrow night. Thanks ctrygent.