5.9 Timing
#1
#2
Welcome to the Forum!
Timing is set overall by the PCM.
You can Index the distributor manually without a scanner but ethically, you cannot time the engine, although you need to be close to #1 compression TDC cylinder and #1 distributor point. I am including a .pdf file that will tell you how to do it.
Idle is aprox: 600 RPM
Follow the key to the left about half way down.
Timing is set overall by the PCM.
You can Index the distributor manually without a scanner but ethically, you cannot time the engine, although you need to be close to #1 compression TDC cylinder and #1 distributor point. I am including a .pdf file that will tell you how to do it.
Idle is aprox: 600 RPM
Follow the key to the left about half way down.
Last edited by hydrashocker; 07-19-2009 at 05:33 PM.
#3
Code PO720
Thanks for info. Thought I had everything right. Sounded good and drove great. However, I noted that when parked the trip meter would continue to run. I did the instrument check where you hold the trip button and then turn on.
At the very end the mph goes to 105 and hangs. Also when you start the engine it again goes to 105 MPH.
If you put in gear it goes down then back to 105. Checked codes and found a P0720.
I might add, even if eng is off, and key is ON, the trip and mileage meter continues.
What now??
Thanks all!!
At the very end the mph goes to 105 and hangs. Also when you start the engine it again goes to 105 MPH.
If you put in gear it goes down then back to 105. Checked codes and found a P0720.
I might add, even if eng is off, and key is ON, the trip and mileage meter continues.
What now??
Thanks all!!
#4
P0720 Low Output SPEED Sens RPM, Above 15 MPH
This is the transmission output sensor located on the drivers side half way down in the middle. Best place to get em is the dealer ...IMHO... Last one I got was like $35 or so. Removal is 30 seconds and you lose little fluid.
Still though this has me puzzled; I really have never had this happen or seen it. Maybe it's a short. Replace this sensor and the other one it could be is the ABS/Speed sensor located on the top of the rear differential. Both of these really work together. Other than that, Try this:
This is the transmission output sensor located on the drivers side half way down in the middle. Best place to get em is the dealer ...IMHO... Last one I got was like $35 or so. Removal is 30 seconds and you lose little fluid.
Still though this has me puzzled; I really have never had this happen or seen it. Maybe it's a short. Replace this sensor and the other one it could be is the ABS/Speed sensor located on the top of the rear differential. Both of these really work together. Other than that, Try this:
AIRBAG MODULE
WARNING:
WARNING:
THE AIRBAG SYSTEM IS A SENSITIVE, COMPLEX
ELECTROMECHANICAL UNIT. BEFORE
ATTEMPTING TO DIAGNOSE OR SERVICE ANY AIRBAG
SYSTEM OR RELATED STEERING WHEEL,
STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL
COMPONENTS YOU MUST FIRST DISCONNECT
AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND)
CABLE. THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE SYSTEM
CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE FURTHER
SYSTEM SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE
WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM. FAILURE
TO DO THIS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG
DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
Next remove the insterment cluster for a full power down.
SYSTEM OR RELATED STEERING WHEEL,
STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL
COMPONENTS YOU MUST FIRST DISCONNECT
AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND)
CABLE. THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE SYSTEM
CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE FURTHER
SYSTEM SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE
WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM. FAILURE
TO DO THIS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG
DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
Next remove the insterment cluster for a full power down.
Then do a full reset on the PCM:
Remove the negative terminal of your battery (10mm wrench).
Turn your ignition key to START and hold it there for about 15 seconds.
Turn your ignition key to OFF and remove it.
Connect the negative terminal of your battery.
Turn your ignition key to START and hold it there for about 15 seconds.
Turn your ignition key to OFF and remove it.
Connect the negative terminal of your battery.
After this but before starting the engine reset the instrument cluster. Then start the truck. Do not hit the gas. Run for about 15 seconds then turn it off. Then re-start the truck and run as usual.
I hope this helps?
Last edited by hydrashocker; 07-20-2009 at 10:28 PM.
#5
I checked and found the ABS/Speed Sensor bad. I replaced and still had problem. I might add that I tried two from a local parts store only to find them bad. I ended up going to dealer. Next I replaced the Transmission output sensor, still not cured. Will explain again.
After I have cleared the PCM and reset the instrument panel I can start the thing up. At first I get no lights, then if I shift into gear, the MPH gage will go up to about 105. At some point you hear the auto doorlock working. Next I get the ABS and brake light. A short time later I get the check engine light. Also at this point the engine sometimes stalls.
I have noted that when key is on or engine is running it will not show the P when in park. Also when in park the reverse lights are on?? After checking further I found a outstanding recall for the the car. It is the one for the replacement of the Gear shift blocker. I have an appointment this Thursday to take care of that. Not sure if that will cure problem.
The front brake pads are fine and I hope to check the rear ones today.
Thanks for any help.
After I have cleared the PCM and reset the instrument panel I can start the thing up. At first I get no lights, then if I shift into gear, the MPH gage will go up to about 105. At some point you hear the auto doorlock working. Next I get the ABS and brake light. A short time later I get the check engine light. Also at this point the engine sometimes stalls.
I have noted that when key is on or engine is running it will not show the P when in park. Also when in park the reverse lights are on?? After checking further I found a outstanding recall for the the car. It is the one for the replacement of the Gear shift blocker. I have an appointment this Thursday to take care of that. Not sure if that will cure problem.
The front brake pads are fine and I hope to check the rear ones today.
Thanks for any help.
Last edited by badwrench; 07-26-2009 at 08:14 PM. Reason: Additional info.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
2001-2003 dash instrument clusters all match.
It is a 30 minute easy job to swap your own cluster. Get one from eBay for $40 or go to a junk yard. Plug and play.
When you take it out, thats a great time to mod the gauges with a nice overlay.
With that said, it isn't your cluster that is bad. It is a failing CTM.
IndyDurango
It is a 30 minute easy job to swap your own cluster. Get one from eBay for $40 or go to a junk yard. Plug and play.
When you take it out, thats a great time to mod the gauges with a nice overlay.
With that said, it isn't your cluster that is bad. It is a failing CTM.
IndyDurango
Last edited by IndyDurango; 07-30-2009 at 11:56 PM.
#10