I hope everything works out for you, hydra.

HS,

Great photo documentation.

Think it was a piece of metal that swung up and took out the sensor? I doubt the sensor did the damage so I am guessing it was the sensor going second and the chucks going first.

How long since the last diff serviced? I do mine every 24 months with the trans service. This spring it is all due again. Also, I suggest Mobil1 75W90 in the diff WITH the $9 bottle of limited slip additive form the dealer.

Good luck. Keep us posted with repair pics.

IndyDurango

There is about 30K on the gear lube with friction modifier added. The lube was dark and worn.


95<---- What tools are needed for the repack? Feeler gauge and torque wench anything else? Also please send me your telephone number case I need it via PM?

I went out to look armed with a mirror and a light. Well I found the issue:

A broken clutch pack!

Attachment 97667

Attachment 97668

Attachment 97669

Attachment 97670


I want to thank everyone that clicked this link and specially thank the members who contributed.

Because of the contaminants and because of where the truck is located I think it's going to the shop. I always wanted to do a DIY on the gearing but considering this is a Limited Slip Rear Differential it's most likely not going to be found in a junk yard a rebuild is in order. Now I get to figure how to pay for it and getting it to the shop not to mention finding a ride home so I can come back to grab the family that is stuck with me here as well.

Well as an update to my original thread:


I completed an entire rear end rebuild including Pinion bearings and seal, Wheel bearings and seals, and Differential, Differential bearings and Clutch Packs, and ABS Tone Ring. The problem was actually a broken Belleville Spring from fatigue and not from a maintenance issue.

The clutch packs showed ware but there were no observed maintenance issues. In my post to Indy above ^ #13 ^ it stated that I had about 30K on the lubrication. This is incorrect! The correct mileage was found on the diff cover and verified on my receipt at being 121k and the truck had 174,500k thus leaving 53,500 miles on the lubrication. I had forgotten to change the lubricant at the 30k mark as I like to do. OEM states that the gear lubricant needs to be changed every 60k but we as forum members like to change it at 30k and recommend that people change at 30k intervals. However, the manufacture states that it should be done every 60k.

Here are 2 pictures of a used clutch pack (that does not show much ware but you can see one Belleville Spring cracked from fatigue and not lack of maintenance. The other side was broke in half so I didn't picture it:

Attachment 96638


Attachment 96639



Well let me tell you, I changed my front end lubricant yesterday and it was sheared and discolored. I did this at 175k and I had originally done this at the same time as the rear diff. I am doing a flush on the front right now and I plan on changing both over in about a week to Fully Synthetic. IMHO...it is better to do both at the same time thus you can remember that both need to be done. The front axle on my 1998 Durango and should be the front axle on the 1999 Durango is a 194 FIA (Dana 35) and it is an Open Geared Differential thus NOT needing Friction Modifier.


Anyway, here is the DIY link to rebuild your rear end and let me tell you this; if you don't have the equipment and know how to do gearing and gear boxes as well as seals and good overall knowledge of engineering THEN DON"T TRY THIS AT HOME!

Track Lock Differential Rebuild
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...c-lok-lsd.html

+1.

From that thread, I have a HUGE new appreciation for what it takes both knowledge and parts to repair/replace the stuff. Someday when I need a new one, it will certainly be something I send out to have done.

IndyD

I found parts almost identical to this in the rear of my 2000 Durango with a 3.55 Trak Lock diff in it. Looks like time to rebuild. How long did it take to rebuild?

I was told that if the clutch packs are gone in your diff - it will act like an open diff even if it's a lsd. So if spinning the tire wont tell you - what will? I had the diff open to change the fluid this summer, also changed pinion seal - nothing found on the magnet etc but afterwards I noticed a slight shudder from a dead stop. Now i can feel/hear a vibration in the rear from about 40mph and up when accelerating, quiets down when let off the gas. The truck doesnt shake - you can just hear the rear get louder.
Thoughts?

Well yes that is slightly correct as if there isn't enough grip on the clutch disks and they are worn they will not transfer power as they are designed to do. But it still would not act like an open gearing, but close to it.

I hope you installed the 7oz (I install 8oz) of Friction Modifier in it after you opened it up? If not drain and install and pray. Your issue could also be a bad U-joint.

As for the rebuild. It took me 2 days but I had to do a full clean out job and it was my first rebuild. Knowing what I know now and I have most all the tools it would be 1 day unless there was issues.

if the clutch packs are shot the only way to tell is to open up the diff and take a look, otherwise you are just guessing