1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Torque converter issue

Old Dec 31, 2009 | 04:52 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by IndyDurango


Never Flush

:/

IndyD

thats been covered


but nice pic btw
 
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Old Dec 31, 2009 | 07:18 PM
  #12  
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Default Torque Converter Issue

Grrrrreat . Not the first time I acted on bad advice about repairing a dodge (I have Two). The Flush was almost a year ago and obviouslly did not solve the issue. Is the issue that the transmission sludge is being fluidized and ending up in other parts of the transmission? If the TPS was bad why was it not coding on the computer? Could you see ithe code pop up if you were not watching the scope as the error occured? I'll get it replaced anyway it is a cheap part. I'll post if it resolves the issue.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 01:20 AM
  #13  
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codes are not reliable their just like a bonus most of the time i know their/what the problem is bfore the computer
 
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 01:38 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by HiglandMack
Grrrrreat . Is the issue that the transmission sludge is being fluidized and ending up in other parts of the transmission?
Pretty much.

If there's any loose/clutch materials, yes flush but not on a closed loop. Dump anything coming out by pumping it straight out into a can.

Typical flushes use detergents that break down slight amounts of stuff on the surface of the lines that could/should have just stayed there. They use a closed system that flushes back to the pan and dropped from there. Problem is, the materials keep breaking free after the flush over the next few months. That material clogs the lines and bam! New transmission time again. Left alone, the buildup was nothing to have worried about in the first place.

IndyD
 
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 01:58 AM
  #15  
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curious-does it surge at idle?
 
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 02:03 PM
  #16  
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Well they also use a multi-vehicle transmission fluid that don't work with our transmissions and pump the torque converter, lines cooler, and everything else with detergents. They then flush but again use the wrong fluid. The correct fluid is about $4 a quart whereas mutli-vehicle fluid is about $2 a quart. Now this is retail but I'm just saying that nobody is going to use the fluid that's twice the cost period! Also, the multi-vehicle fluid is "suppose" to work in everything but think about it, if it did then why would they make such specialized lubricant........LOL

Also most techs don't set the psi in those things correctly and they tend to blow out seals in the valve body and other that are documented as having issues contributed to use of flimsy gaskets. This is one of the reasons for a shift kit.

What you want to do is just pull the pan, replace the filters, adjust if adjustable then bolt it back up and use ATF+4 fluid only.
 
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