Follow up #2

Performed load test this afternoon and passed. Tonight I had the same symptoms as original but with a couple of twists.

1. Stereo started flickering and I mean total blank out intermittently

2. Headlights started flickering, I originally thought it was the headlights coming loose, but then noticed the flickering.

3. When I shut down it was dead as a doornail but in the time it tooke me to get the Jumper Cables from my roomate, it was fine and got the connection to start without the jumper cables.

4. When I took it to O'Reillys to get load test again, it passed a second time with full accessory load, both battery voltage and alternator.

5. We did notice one of the neg cables the one that goes from the neg terminal around the front of the battery and bolts to the inner fender well. Being dark and my tools back at home, we got it going enough to get home and I purchased the cable. I will replace tomorrow during daylight.

Here is what we know so far

1. Battery and Alternator both passed load test on two different machines.
2. Corrosion on one of the negative terminals. Identified and remove/replace tomorrow.


One thing my roomate mentioned was the possibility of a starter solenoid, I think this might be extreme, but based on the intermittent action it could be plausible.

Is there a way of testing the starter on the vehicle without removing and bench test?

MAGIC

 

Corrosion is a sign that terminal was not tight. That could be it. However...

...starting to point to CTM pre-failure.

IndyD

 

id look for loose grounds,

(sounds like you found one already, that is likely your problem), starter solenoid going out would mean a starter replacement as they are one unit, and they would NOT cause headlights/radio to flicker in and out (that points to a bad ground)

 

Both of those are good dyno's!

 

I think I got it, R/R both of the negative cables. Lets backtrack a bit, Indy, Fastman you probably remember when I disconnected the battery at Carlisle 09? I had that new quick disconnect ? Anyhoo, that cable was corroded and basically the pressing of them together came loose. That's probably caused the flickering last night, by the cables coming loose and losing the ground. Thats probably why it was intermittent and I guess just over time, it worked loose again. If I had known that they were that easy to replace I would have replaced them last year.

R/R the neg cable from the battery to the chassis ground (The one wrapped around the front of the neg cable!)

R/R the neg cable from the battery to the engine block. FYI, for those of you with 4.7 there is a black cable bolted to the block just aft of the oil filter. That is this cable, so if you ever see this cable loose, or corroded replace right away.

With all the wire insulation and loom wraps it will take a while also there is a small wire, that is taped to the cable from the block. It takes a few minutes but be careful to avoid damaging this wire. I believe it is grey and yellow or grey. It is not electrically attached to the ground cable just taped and share the common wire loom covers.

Good news, works fine and although I got much more cable than I needed you can tuck it up somewhere and make it look neat.

Hope this helps,

STEVE

 

glad that you got it fixed, and thanks for letting us know what it was

 

Thanks for the update!

 

Indeed.

On remote troubleshooting online, one has to assume the standards have already been checked off the list (Problem: "My door won't open"; Assumed Already Tried, Thus Not Mentioned Solution: "Is it unlocked?" for example)

Blinking electrical may be a loose ground of course. Since grounds just don't come loose on their own, generally dismissed as the culprit. Blinking interior electrical, on and off exterior electrical, usually CTM signs. GLAD to hear your case was corrosion on poorly connected grounds.

Good to find, easy to fix, generally assumed already eliminated, SHAME on you for getting into that in the first place.

IndyD

 

wrote:

Yes Rob!! you got me there, no argument. Thankfully it was something simple and no major damage. It also proves the concept of this forum and open communication with each other to help each other out when we can. It cost about $15 to r/r the cables, including cables, and terminal cleaner/protectant. I am figuring about $100 for current dealer rates using most dealers 1 hr minimum and a good tech would find it pretty quickly, and assuming all parts in stock, with lifts, heated garage and air tools, I figure 20-30 minutes labor plus parts. Thanks for the help guys?

Today I got the protective wrap around the cables and I am good!!

MAGIC84