remanufactured 4.7
#1
remanufactured 4.7
What is the damage if a remanufactured engine didn’t get the oil changed after it's initial start up and there is 150 miles on it now. I just read about the proper way to do a remanufactured engine and I will get new oil and filter tomorrow and not drive it again until it gets changed.
My only cel codes are below
the codes I got were p0420
I changed both o2 sensors and the code is still there so I fear the cat has failed.
Although i read somewhere about the Ps sensor may be faulty and it is somehow connected to the o2 sensor wiring, other symptoms include fluctuating idle at times and it has died once while just sitting idle.
I also found a small discoloration but not dripping or evan forming of leak on the fuel rail right behind the ac compressor where the line bends to go over the intake manifold, since I got the truck back from them I have had to go over it and tighten and verify things are where they should be. Initially I took it back to them because I found a bolt missing from both motor mounts, they had to pull the engine up to gain access, then they had the nerve to ask me for more money for that days work. Any way I know you may say take it back but I really don’t want to go back to them this was obviously to much for them.
New tps new iac new coolant and oil t gage sw and new map sensor
Looks like the only sensor I havent changed is the ps switch
i have no idea how long they were sitting there cranking on it, same day i realized they hadn’t bled the coolant properly so there are alot of unknowns with this as i wasn’t there with them all the time and now i guess i am starting to find the problems i hope they ddint screw something big up like the engine....
My only cel codes are below
the codes I got were p0420
I changed both o2 sensors and the code is still there so I fear the cat has failed.
Although i read somewhere about the Ps sensor may be faulty and it is somehow connected to the o2 sensor wiring, other symptoms include fluctuating idle at times and it has died once while just sitting idle.
I also found a small discoloration but not dripping or evan forming of leak on the fuel rail right behind the ac compressor where the line bends to go over the intake manifold, since I got the truck back from them I have had to go over it and tighten and verify things are where they should be. Initially I took it back to them because I found a bolt missing from both motor mounts, they had to pull the engine up to gain access, then they had the nerve to ask me for more money for that days work. Any way I know you may say take it back but I really don’t want to go back to them this was obviously to much for them.
New tps new iac new coolant and oil t gage sw and new map sensor
Looks like the only sensor I havent changed is the ps switch
man I have waited almost 3 months for these guys to figure out how to change my engine and now my check engine light is on and back to my original question, I know the oil wasn’t changed after the initial start up because I walked in as they were cranking the hell out of it. The mechanic tried to tell me the pcm was bad so I looked at it and found the 3 plugs weren’t pushed in on them and they clicked he tried to tell me that pcm shouldn’t click like that but it wasn’t electrical it was the clip seating. Also the ground wire next to it on the fender well was just hanging with out a bolt.
i have no idea how long they were sitting there cranking on it, same day i realized they hadn’t bled the coolant properly so there are alot of unknowns with this as i wasn’t there with them all the time and now i guess i am starting to find the problems i hope they ddint screw something big up like the engine....
#3
#4
What is the damage if a remanufactured engine didn’t get the oil changed after it's initial start up and there is 150 miles on it now. I just read about the proper way to do a remanufactured engine and I will get new oil and filter tomorrow and not drive it again until it gets changed.
I did mine at 100 miles. At 160 your fine but get it done tomarrow and use 10W-30 Fully Synthetic. After that change it at 3000 then around 5000-7500 if you use Full Synthetic.I always use Mobil One 10W-30 Fully Synthetic and change out every 5000 but I tow and it leaves me room case I just can't get to it at that point of time.
To answer your question, I would run regular conventional oil for 100 miles. Change to FS and run the 3000. Then move to 5000-7500 depending on your usage but to be safe stay closer to 5000. Don't use blended oils or cheapo oils. Either use conventional (change every 3000) or use FS and change 5000-7500 and save money, time, and ware but it's your choice.
My only cel codes are below
the codes I got were p0420
I changed both o2 sensors and the code is still there so I fear the cat has failed.
Although i read somewhere about the Ps sensor may be faulty and it is somehow connected to the o2 sensor wiring, other symptoms include fluctuating idle at times and it has died once while just sitting idle.
the codes I got were p0420
I changed both o2 sensors and the code is still there so I fear the cat has failed.
Although i read somewhere about the Ps sensor may be faulty and it is somehow connected to the o2 sensor wiring, other symptoms include fluctuating idle at times and it has died once while just sitting idle.
Go to a muffler shop and have tem do a back pressure test to see if you have over 3 lbs back pressure and need it changed out.
I also found a small discoloration but not dripping or evan forming of leak on the fuel rail right behind the ac compressor where the line bends to go over the intake manifold, since I got the truck back from them I have had to go over it and tighten and verify things are where they should be. Initially I took it back to them because I found a bolt missing from both motor mounts, they had to pull the engine up to gain access, then they had the nerve to ask me for more money for that days work. Any way I know you may say take it back but I really don’t want to go back to them this was obviously to much for them.
New tps new iac new coolant and oil t gage sw and new map sensor
Looks like the only sensor I havent changed is the ps switch
i have no idea how long they were sitting there cranking on it, same day i realized they hadn’t bled the coolant properly so there are alot of unknowns with this as i wasn’t there with them all the time and now i guess i am starting to find the problems i hope they ddint screw something big up like the engine....
Looks like the only sensor I havent changed is the ps switch
man I have waited almost 3 months for these guys to figure out how to change my engine and now my check engine light is on and back to my original question, I know the oil wasn’t changed after the initial start up because I walked in as they were cranking the hell out of it. The mechanic tried to tell me the pcm was bad so I looked at it and found the 3 plugs weren’t pushed in on them and they clicked he tried to tell me that pcm shouldn’t click like that but it wasn’t electrical it was the clip seating. Also the ground wire next to it on the fender well was just hanging with out a bolt.
i have no idea how long they were sitting there cranking on it, same day i realized they hadn’t bled the coolant properly so there are alot of unknowns with this as i wasn’t there with them all the time and now i guess i am starting to find the problems i hope they ddint screw something big up like the engine....
#5
back preasure
oh ok I will check out muffler shop so your saying if it's bad if it has 3lbs of back preasure or if it doesnt have at least 3 lbs?
I posted in the other thread but here: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...nufacture.html
I did mine at 100 miles. At 160 your fine but get it done tomarrow and use 10W-30 Fully Synthetic. After that change it at 3000 then around 5000-7500 if you use Full Synthetic.I always use Mobil One 10W-30 Fully Synthetic and change out every 5000 but I tow and it leaves me room case I just can't get to it at that point of time.
To answer your question, I would run regular conventional oil for 100 miles. Change to FS and run the 3000. Then move to 5000-7500 depending on your usage but to be safe stay closer to 5000. Don't use blended oils or cheapo oils. Either use conventional (change every 3000) or use FS and change 5000-7500 and save money, time, and ware but it's your choice.
P0420 1/1 Catalytic Conv Eff
Go to a muffler shop and have tem do a back pressure test to see if you have over 3 lbs back pressure and need it changed out.
I can see why you don't want to take it back as they'll probably screw it up cause they could be mad at you. You need to start a new thread for this issue as it is different than the original thread.
Take it to a credible shop!
I did mine at 100 miles. At 160 your fine but get it done tomarrow and use 10W-30 Fully Synthetic. After that change it at 3000 then around 5000-7500 if you use Full Synthetic.I always use Mobil One 10W-30 Fully Synthetic and change out every 5000 but I tow and it leaves me room case I just can't get to it at that point of time.
To answer your question, I would run regular conventional oil for 100 miles. Change to FS and run the 3000. Then move to 5000-7500 depending on your usage but to be safe stay closer to 5000. Don't use blended oils or cheapo oils. Either use conventional (change every 3000) or use FS and change 5000-7500 and save money, time, and ware but it's your choice.
P0420 1/1 Catalytic Conv Eff
Go to a muffler shop and have tem do a back pressure test to see if you have over 3 lbs back pressure and need it changed out.
I can see why you don't want to take it back as they'll probably screw it up cause they could be mad at you. You need to start a new thread for this issue as it is different than the original thread.
Take it to a credible shop!