Ummmmm


I don't think this guy has a shop and if he does then I feel sorry for the owner cause you know he's gunna stick it to him. I think he's on his last stand trying to prove the work on the timing chain replacement was warranted when it wasn't. Hell a compression test would have told him that!


IMHO<------Give the truck back to the owner free of charge cause you are wasting his time.


If you don't know whats wrong with it then let him find a shop that might be able to help the poor guy instead of trying to fix something you can't.....My 2 cents.

 

Ok update.

Wed and thurs i got into some extensive testing on this thing. Believe me its not a battery i don't wtf you guys are talking about. We have a high amp jumper on the trucks batt and it spins it over extremely well.... And to the person who had doubts about the timing chain. You must have not had much contact with timing chains in your life. Timing chains "stretch" and can jump a tooth upon start up or turning off. A vehcile with a "jump timing" can crank up and run just fine until you shut it off and as the engine is winding down that chain can jump out of time and vise-versa. I've seen it too many timing chains with such slack you can jump it with your hands. It acted just like it had jumping time cause it had fuel and spark and would sometimes start and acctaully run but then for a long time not start. So timing chain. The chain was about due anyway it had alot of slack but never looked like it could be jumped.

 

Also.

I had an extra coil from a dodge a while back that was brand new in the box. The spark from the old coil was good but threw the new one on there to see if it had any affect. No affect same issue. Final decided to test the CPS hooked it up to a computer to see the digital read out of the analog signal. The CPS checked out good. Took a spark plug out too see if it would start... no good. Took both O2 sensors out to see if cat was clogged... no good. Map sensor and coolant temp sesnors good. Rotor button turning and dist cap fine. As you can see its not as simple as it sounds. For the person about the scan tool. We hooked up the scan tool to it before all of this testing and it had no codes. Which i thought was very odd but thought nothing of it and kept trouble shooting.

 

At this point i'm scratching my head.... It had oil in it so it was not that. It had compression all round fine. But i got to thinking. The fact that it had spark but it would not start off of carb cleaner. Which if it had good spark it sould right or at least try too. It almost seemed like it was getting spark to 2 or 3 cyls and quiting. So i hooked it up to another machine to check the rpm signal and it had signal but it was getting randomly interupted... It was very odd.... then it all started pointing to one thing.... "ECU" So i got back out some off the good scan tools and checked it out. Looked for codes and checked some of the data stream and it was not communicating properly at all. I did not remember this from the first time i hooked the scanner too it. I looked up and saw where the milage read out was and it said "no bus".... After looking some more turns out the VIN number was not in the computer anymore... how this happened i don't know... So i tried to see if i could update the computer with the vehicles VIN and it would not take it... This was a high concern... At this point i know it needs a new computer and flash... atleast that was my gut feeling.... So i got a block of wood and told one of my guys to go in there and try and crank it up and i beat on the comp with the block of wood... at first it almost seemed to sputter and crank up but then nothing....

 

I haven't told the customer yet and this is as far as i've gotten until i go back and do some more monday.... any comments?

 

based on these two things you are not getting a warm response from anyone, you came to US asking for help, we pointed you in the MOST COMMON CAUSE of this kind of problem on these trucks, obviously we are the 'experts'(used loosely here) on these trucks NOT YOU. You will not help your case by telling us we have bad ideas or are flat out wrong, most of the time we are NOT WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

btw it doesnt matter how big of an 'high amp juicer' you have on it, it WILL NOT REPLACE A GOOD BATTERY!!!!!!!!!!!!


this points to a bad PCM (ECU is a FORD TERM!!!!!!!, also proving your lack of knowledge about these trucks and saying that you should listen to us instead of insulting us) but it was probably damaged by some surge in the electrical system quite possibly caused by some of your shady 'diagnostic techniques' including the possibility that having the charger and battery hooked up at the same time could have caused.



if you would like our help in the future i suggest that you be more diplomatic about the way you respond to our posts

and also learn where the EDIT button is so that you are not posting a bunch of messages in a row

 

Well it sounds like you know more than the people here and we can't help you no further. Good luck in finding your customers problem.


I am locking this thread because no good is coming out of it. Kiroshu you seem to either be antagonizing the situation or failing to see any of the information that we are trying to offer. Asking peoples opinions then shooting them down and telling people there incorrect isn't the best way to start out making friends.


It sounds like you completely know what you think your doing and even though you came to us, you are more intelligent it seems.........Have a great night.