+1

You need a stat. Get a 180 degree fails-to-open type.

You want LEFT of center temp readings.

Sounds like you need a new rad too. You used a used rad?



IndyD

 

After reading this thread from begin to end, I would inspect the air flow. Is the A/C condenser coil all plugged up? take it to a car wash and really clean up the A/C coil. Afterwards, try to confirm in bright daylight that you can mostly see thru the A/C coil and radiator where you can see the fan. If this does not work and still overheating, you should have bought a new radiator. It's possible the used radiator may be going bad itself. No way for you to inspect a used radiator to tell if the internal core is in good shape or not without tearing down the radiator and rebuilding it.

Also, as everyone spoken in the threads, you have to keep the temperature to the left of the temperature gauge. My D runs about 200 degrees when outside temps in DFW goes over 100 degrees. Otherwise, I pretty much keep at the 190-195 range using a 180 stat during the summer season.

Also, our D's has a smart PCM that knows when your engine approaches 210 degrees, the PCM will put your engine into limp mode. Meaning lots of power loss and possibly crappy mileage. Limp mode is designed to prevent you from overheating and possibly costing you an engine.

 

Sharps


I have to agree.


Not having enough time in 80+ temps is simply stupid! Now he might have it nailed down in REALLY HIGH temps, but 80-90 is ridiculous.

 

lol you drunk at the time of that post hydra? it was not THAT FUNNY!!!!!! (ok maybe it was)

 

Ya, I was flat!.......

 

Gents,

need help....

I am going to change my fluid this weekend, while it is drained, i would like to change the t-stat to a 180 unit. however, i have looked at autozone and advanced auto parts websites and i do not see a 180 deg t-stat for the 4.7 ltr durango.

can someone point me in the right direction as far as if they make one for the 4.7, who sells it, and maybe a part number i am missing.

 

so has the problem been found???

 

shortyR6, you want to keep a stocker stat in the 4.7l. That is why you don't find the others readily available.

IndyDurango

 

Your Dad is right. One of my first track cars had this problem in the late 80's. I went without a t-stat and it would creep up quickly at idle. T-stat plays other roles too in cooling. Something has got to slow down the coolant flow so it will bypass and the radiator can do it's job. I learned this the hard way... No web to search for answers, luckily my buddy Wes worked for Nascar and Dale Sr. was able to set me straight on my thoughts and doubts.

In other words, put in a new t-stat and then try to solve the problem. Also, don't guess at your temp, use something like Auto-Enginuity's scan tool to read the temp in real time.

 

I think I found the culprit but I haven't had a chance to work on it, I was deployed shortly after starting this thread and haven't made it home yet.

Last time I drove it it heated up and I heard hissing coming from that little water hose that is hidden behind the alternator and a bracket. that is the only hose i haven't changed out.