First, Im all girl so I apologise if my wording isnt correct or my description sounds feminine, Im doing the best I can lol

I have a 1999 Durango SLT 4x4 - 5.2 engine. I bought it used a year ago and have had nothing but good luck with it.

Yesterday I drove to the store and had no trouble. I came home for about 15 minutes and when I went to leave again the truck started but ran very weak then died. When I tried to start it again it would try to turn over but wouldnt catch unless I kept my foot on the gas. As soon as I would let up off the gas it would die. I know its not my fuel pump or fuel pump fuse because when I turn the key to the on possition I can hear the hum of the pump from the rear of the truck for the appropriate time.

My husband had a friend look at it and he put a code reader on it but no codes came up. He started the truck, held his foot on the gas to idle it for about a minute and the truck stayed running. As soon as he turned the truck off it did the same thing where it wouldnt catch when he tried to start it. Again, it didnt give a code on the reader. He started it again and this time he stomped on the gas to get the RPM's up to 5000 and turned the truck off. Now, the truck starts and runs like it did before the issue yesterday. To me, it seems to smell "gas fumey" under the hood.

Here is what the guy said he thinks it is. 1) Something was stuck and it was blown out when he ran the RPM's up and the truck is now fine OR 2) Its the throttle sensor motor/valve sensor possibly both. Both are located on the throttle body. Now, am I getting the name right? Is there a 'valve sensor' or have I gotten the name wrong? Do both of the possibilities he gave me sound like they could be the problem? He also told me that if it is the throttle sensor or valve sensor that the truck will run fine for awhile then begin to do as I described again.

Any help/advise here would be appreciated

 

What I would do first is a good tune up. OEM plugs,and wires. Cap and rotor.

 

it sounds to me like the idle air controller (IAC) valve, its mounted on the back of the throttle body, and controls the engine rpms at idle by controlling the airflow, i would start by cleaning it and the entire inside of the throttle body, the tps (throttle position sensor) can cause fluctuating idle, but USUALLY doesnt cause it to stall/start hard

 

I printed out a picture of the entire throttle body so I could see exactly what sensors are on mine. I then spoke with a guy at Kragen Auto who said that the IAC wouldnt cause it to do that. He suggested replacing the MAP sensor and possibly the Throttle Position sensor.

Do you think I should replace the IAC, MAP and TPS sensors just to cover all bases?

On a side note, the truck has run fine for the last 2 days. Is it normal for any of the 3 sensors to mess up like that and suddenly stop messing up for a period of time?

 

im telling you its the IAC, the guy at kragen doesnt know what he is talking about, while the other two sensors are possiblilities, i have been in your situation were the IAC fixed it on my old dakota. clean or replace the IAC, id be more than willing to bet that it takes care of the problem, replacing the other two at the same time is not necessary, unless the problem is still there.

btw, whenever you go to a chain auto parts store you have to keep in mind that they will hire just about anybody regardless of how much they know about cars

 

i would put my money on the alternator going out. The IAC is a possibility but when the alternator begins to go out it runs but requires more spin going through the pulley system to keep the electricity flow going to the engine. keep an eye on the battery gauge on the dash. If its not getting up a little higher then 14 volts then the alternator isn't doing its job. (it should say check gauges) If it does read 14 volts it still doesn't rule out the alternator. It could be 14 volts and only llike 2 amps instead of the 100+ required for the charging system.. good luck

 

Well, I'm a dirty boy...............

Anyway,

Replace the IAC and clean the Throttle Body really good especially where the IAC plunger goes into the Throttle Body.


Next is to look at your battery, alternator, and battery terminals. Have your battery load tested and alternator tested at your local Auto Zone or Checker for free. They can do this at the truck with a machine without disassembling ANYTHING! They just hook up and it's free!

 

shrpshtr325 - for the IAC do you mean just the IAC valve or IAC motor or both? When pricing an IAC both the valve and motor came up.

Alternator and battery are fine but I do need to replace battery cable connectors. They are the thin copper type and I have already had an issue with the truck not starting once because of them. My plan is to replace them with something more heavy duty when I know if its the IAC motor or valve.

Thanks a bunch for the help.

 

afaik there is only one unit(the two names are synonymous)

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50022+2022007

they sell a cheaper one too, but this is the one i put into my old dakota(it was cheaper at the time)

 

Thank you for suggesting NAPA. When I called Kragen and asked about the IAC they asked if wanted the valve or motor. I said they are the same thing. I swear, the guy said 'but my computer has them listed as two different parts and two different prices'....I just hung up.