Sorry for the long story ahead of time...

I bought a 98 Durango 5.2l 4x4 at the begingin of the summer. I have replace the inner/outer tie rods, upper/lower ball joints, pitman and idler arms. I also replace the steering gear box(from a u-pull-it yard) cause it had a leak, and didn't even think about rebuild at that time. The issue I'm having is that my steering is 1/2 turn off, it takes 1 turn to full left and 2 turns full right. I then rebuild the orig gear box, having the same issue afterwards. I was told by a couple of mechanics that it was possible that due to front end damage, gear boxes may have a twisted shaft.

Got a second box from yard, which I tested 2-3 times to make sure steering worked and was 1.5 turn both ways. After putting "good" box in, I still have the same issue.

I then checked the new pitman arm I installed. It looks like the 4 keyed splines that go on the gear box shaft is off by about 5 degrees. I compared both the orig pitman arms to the new one. Both the orig arms have the keys off center from what the new arm has, which when rotating the steering wheel will throw everything off.

Has anyone seen this before? What part# should I look for? I stopped at Advance Auto last night, only place open at the time, and their's was differnt than my orig arms too. I don't have any pics to post yet.

 

I have been trying to diagnose the same concern. I changed out a leaky gear box and changed out the pit arm as well. Now, my 1998 5.2l Durango turns shaper to the passenger-side. I had not considered a problem with the pit arm.

Anyone have suggestions or fixes?

 

I do have an update on it, just haven't had time to post. I went to Arnold Motor Supply and got a Moog part, don't have the part # with me now. I believe they only have one part. The splines match my prof pitman arm, rotated maybe 5 degrees when compared to the 1st replacement part. Everything is now back 2 center and lined up.

 

Thanks. I did use a Moog pit arm. I am planning to change out the tie rods in a couple of weeks. I will probably just adjust the turn radius through the tie rods.

Here is the upcoming work plan -

Upper & lower ball joints
Inner and outer tie rods
Idler arm
Inspect CV joints (replace in needed)


1998 Durango
5.2L
4x4
71,239 miles

 

I have a 99 Durango 5.2 and I need to buy an idler arm...how do I know which one to buy?
The 12 or 14 mm.

Thanks

 

Perhaps this will help you.
NOTE: that I am not 100% positive as I have not replaced mine just yet.


There was one thread here https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-durango/199377-idler-arm-assy.html that post but didn't pan out for the OP.

From my google-foo across the interwebs I found a "way to tell" on another forum.. http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=156536
Last post states that "A 19mm box end fits the head of the 12mm stud" (the stud is where the Idler arm mounts to the chassis)

I measured mine with the "rule"
Rule 1: 19mm fits the 12mm stud.
-Tested..19mm didn't fit my application.

I then create a hypothesis/potential rule 2

Potential new Rule 2: if Rule #1 is true, then a 21mm box end should fit the 14mm stud.
-Tested..a 21mm socket fits the head of my mount/bolt

I am making the assumption that mine is a 14mm.
(Note:I didn't have a 21mm box end...going to buy some larger box end wrenches today)

While I know this is not proof, I feel confident enough to take a shot.
(Perhaps a few owners who are positive on their mount size will respond with their test results to make this a tried and true method for future identification)

I am ordering the 14mm version, I will post back with my result within a few weeks once I've installed it.

Darius

 

The above has now been confirmed, I had a 14mm stud (sorry for the long delay in confirmation) I hope this helps someone else down the road (no pun intended).

-Darius