I wasn't sure if that was the problem and most people i talked to told me to wait for something to break.

Isn't the fuel filter, pressure regulator, drain back valve and all just one big component?

 

yes the pump is one unit w/ the filter, drainback valve ect ect all inside.

now, your case could be the same fluke that the rest of us have experienced, and nothing more, but a new fuel pump never hurt anything (except your wallet)

if i were you i would pull the #2 plug and see what it looks like regardless of how new it is, the look of a plug can tell you alot, and i mean a WHOLE LOT

 

Well no, i spent some time trying to figure out what the problem is and the code has always been the misfire on cylinder 2. i'll still pull out the plug but its not the problem. the only reason i even put new ones in was because my dad had put in Bosch platinum plugs or whatever. So i replaced them with the champion copper cores.

 

IMHO that is just absolutely horrible advice. Why tempt Murphy's Law and take a chance on it breaking down at the worst possible time (far from home, middle of the night, 15 below, etc...)? Especially when you live in a Minnesota climate and have had 2 full years of knowing there's a problem where you could have arranged to have it repaired at a convenient time.

 

the drainback valve being bad does not mean the pump is bad, the reason he has to cycle the key to build pressure is that the drainback valve is not keeping the fuel in the line. now this IS extra work for the pump, which im sure is not good for its life, and considering the amount of time he has been doing it, very well could be the pump, but that method on its own does not mean there is a problem with the pump.

 

True. Hadn't really thought of the drainback valve as the cause for that, I was thinking weak pump. Still, once one part of an assembly has gone bad, I tend to be suspicious of the rest of it.

I still stand by my opinion that "wait 'til you break down" is pretty poor mechanical advice. (ESPECIALLY for people in northern climates where being stranded with no heat can be potentially fatal instead of just inconvenient if it happens on the wrong night.)

 

no doubt knowing there is a problem and not addressing it for that long is poor advice/practice, waiting on something bc you need to get the $$ together i can understand, but i doubt a fuel pump would take 2 years to save up for.

 

Well she has been acting normal now. Another thing i just remembered is when i turned her on and was accelerating she was making this ticking sound. which got faster as the rpm's increased.

It sounded like putting a baseball card on your bike to make the motorcycle sound as a kid.

I forgot this because i was pissed and upset that my d was not turning over.

Any ideas what the clicking might have been? she isn't doing it anymore. and she isn't giving me problems either.

 

No, but I should.....LOL

Music to my ears..........LMFAO


Anyway, this thread has gone from fuel pump to plugs to check valves in the fuel pump. What it should say is all the above issues could be fixed with a new entire fuel pump like I said.

The fuel pump has the entire set up all in one as long as you replace the entire unit. It has the regulator, float, 3 filters, valve, pump, and sending unit all in one unit.

 

But what about that ticking sound i heard hydra? any ideas on that? i will get a new fuel pump soon. its next on my list now.

I'm not sure what that ticking sound was coming from. inside the car it was easier to hear. i opened my hood and i couldn't hear it over the fan and other car sounds. inside the cab it was kind of isolated and was noticeable. it doesn't happen anymore just that once. than she shut off on me.