Very true on the CAT probably being destroyed with how rich it has been running, it's rattling pretty badly too so deffinatly time for a new one. I just want this whole nightmare with no power and the exhaust to be over with already. I wouldn't mind installing a new CAT back system to get a nice sound and lots of flow from it.

In the future if you are thinking you have a vacuum leak get a can of carb cleaner, run the engine and spray the vacuum lines and intake manifold gaskets. If the engine revs up you've found your leak.

The carb cleaner trick was always in the back of my mind but I never got around to trying it. I figured if there was a leak it wouldn't idle as low as it normally does. But that's deffinatly a good way of checking for leaks, the vacuum basically pulls in the cleaner and burns it which makes it rev a little more.

I am interested in your E-fan conversion and looking into doing the same, I figure every little bit of load off the engine will help MPGs in the long run.

1. The motor did not come with exhaust gaskets from the factory that I remember. You would be smart to install a set.

2. If you are going to use the old head bolts you should torque them a few lbs over the specifications. I wouldn't personally not do a head gasket without a torque wrench because you are not only stretching the bolts but collapsing the gasket as well. Ensure you tighten them in sequence following the manual. You can get a cheap one at Harbor Freight for like $15 or barrow one.

3. I use gasket scrapers like these: http://www.alltradetools.com/catalog...t-scraper.html or even a dry wall spreader at your local store for like $1. You have to make sure that you DO NOT maul or pit the surfaces of the block or head. You scrape off the large pieces and ensure the mounting surfaces are clean using alcohol or brake cleaner. You can cover the water and oil jackets with old rags pushed in them. Don't forget the cylinders! Put old rags down them as well and before you remove the rags use a vacuum to suck the crap out then suck the cylinders out for anything else and remember that crap can fall between the cylinder wall and the piston to vacuum the real good.

Exactly the kind of answers I was looking for Hydra. I never attempted anything like this before so I just worked with what I had, but deffinatly good advice to hold onto for the future.

If you need specified help, I've been there before just PM me.

Well guys here's the last update. The exhaust shop says blocked exhaust, they cut the pipe before the CAT and it got all it's power back, runs like new. In case any of you are wondering what it sounds like now, here's a video we made of it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mu8UnMtNIeI haha it's great. Tomorrow I'm getting a new cat., O2 sensors and a muffler so that will make it run perfect.

The redneck head gasket replacement was a success! no problems for over 500 miles so far. The shop wants $120 for a coolant flush, I said in your dreams, so I'll look into how to do that sometime, it's running much cooler than it ever was now at about 195 degrees, which is the same temp as the new thermostat I installed too so it's working. Would have gone with a 180 degree but everything I read said a warmer running engine will get better MPGs so that sold me on a 195 right there.

All together I spend under $80 on everything I needed to install the new head gaskets. Mostly going as cheap as I could. I saved at least $600 doing it myself though. Overall it wasn't hard as much as it was time consuming, so if anyone is thinking about doing it too, I say go for it, just remember where everything goes and pray you don't have the dreaded "extra parts" when you get done. If you have an extra header or pushrod laying around when you get done I think you did it wrong.

Well that's about it for this thread, just logged my work and shared my experience for anyone out there who is interested. Best of luck to anyone who wants to give it a try.

Well there goes the neighborhood!!

Sorry, but........when TF did we get to the motor being completed done and ready to go?


Anyway, sounds to me the motor is drowned and in need for a tune up and the trans a sift kit.

Post #11 was the first time having it all together completely and starting/running it with timing issues. Then post #19 I took the water pump and timing cover off to replace the chain and correct the timing, after that it ran perfectly except it still had a badly restricted exhaust. So yesterday I took it into a muffler shop, they cut the pipe before the cat. to open up the exhaust and it gained all it's top end power back and all was good, that's when I made the video that day too. Then today I took it back to the muffler shop and they installed a new exhaust system. If anyone wants pictures of cleaning the intake and heads, it all put back together and being complete just say so.

The motor shifts very diffrently with the open exhaust for some reason, long smooth shifts. I wouldn't mind getting a tune up and a nice transgo shift kit and even a superchips programmer, but I have absolutly no money for anything. I just do what I need to do to make it move from A to B.