Rear diff whine
#1
04-02-2011, 11:40 AM
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Rear diff whine
I have posted this elsewhere, and have not had much in the way of answers. I have seen a few people with similiar problems, but nothing that has helped me solve my problems. i appreciate any help you might be able to give.
Ok, i am going to start from the beginning. Ill start by saying I am fairly average on my knowledge of vehicles, but fairly dont know a lot on rear diffs, except for the general parts used etc.
My 2000 durango was in the shop for rear breaks, mechanical told me the rear diff fluid was really low, so he topped it off, he said that the leak should be fixed, with parts and labor, about $60. So i brought it in a few days later to him to have it fixed, he gets back to us a few days later and says the rear end has some problems needed to be fixed, we told him to go ahead, (he said things about the pinion bearing and something about the wear pattern on the teeth of the gears). I had noticed the whining sound maybe people have described prior to it going in, it whines when you accelerate, but if you are coasting, its almost nonexistent.
I get it back a week later (parts took awhile he said), and charge us $711. He showed me a box of parts he replaced, i saw the pinion bearing for sure, and a bunch of spacers and other small parts? No gears tho. I drive away and already its whining, and whining loud, louder than before. Way louder than before, 2 or 3 times louder, but still goes away when coasting.
I only put about 50 miles on it since i got it back, and it sat in my driveway, and its still leaking from the rear diff, he couldn't even fix that!
Also, when driving it, it starts to smell a burning smell from the rear end(this also started happening the day before it went in, but i had to drive a lot further for it to start making the smell), like i said i only put 50 miles on it so far, and always only 10 or so miles at a time; im trying not to drive it when possible. I dont know if that would help with a diagnosis.
Basically i just dont know what to do. Ive been reading all different forums all day. I dont know if i have a LSD? I read somewhere that they didnt put in the friction modifier in the rear diff and it made it whine, they added it and it dramatically decreased? could this be all it is? any thoughts?
what should i do besides go to a different mechanic????
is it just a spacing issue??
I just dont want to get screwed again
The parts were 362 and labor 325, does that seem right?
Lastly, the only reason i went to this guy is its a friend of my dads and usually gives us a good deal on labor costs. Im starting to think he might be incompetent when it comes to rear diffs?? This $711 seems really high from what ive seen elsewhere online. I kind of go through my dad, my dad tells me what he says, and how much it is, etc. We havent paid the mechanic yet, if he cant fix it, shouldnt he have told us he was over his head?? i mean, he couldnt even get the rear diff to stop leaking??? Im just torn, i dont want to pay him. All he did was replace parts, that if left as is, will just get warn and break like the last ones, except faster? and maybe even ruin other parts of my rear end.
I really appreciate you sticking around to read it all. thank you for any help you might be able to give.
Ok, i am going to start from the beginning. Ill start by saying I am fairly average on my knowledge of vehicles, but fairly dont know a lot on rear diffs, except for the general parts used etc.
My 2000 durango was in the shop for rear breaks, mechanical told me the rear diff fluid was really low, so he topped it off, he said that the leak should be fixed, with parts and labor, about $60. So i brought it in a few days later to him to have it fixed, he gets back to us a few days later and says the rear end has some problems needed to be fixed, we told him to go ahead, (he said things about the pinion bearing and something about the wear pattern on the teeth of the gears). I had noticed the whining sound maybe people have described prior to it going in, it whines when you accelerate, but if you are coasting, its almost nonexistent.
I get it back a week later (parts took awhile he said), and charge us $711. He showed me a box of parts he replaced, i saw the pinion bearing for sure, and a bunch of spacers and other small parts? No gears tho. I drive away and already its whining, and whining loud, louder than before. Way louder than before, 2 or 3 times louder, but still goes away when coasting.
I only put about 50 miles on it since i got it back, and it sat in my driveway, and its still leaking from the rear diff, he couldn't even fix that!
Also, when driving it, it starts to smell a burning smell from the rear end(this also started happening the day before it went in, but i had to drive a lot further for it to start making the smell), like i said i only put 50 miles on it so far, and always only 10 or so miles at a time; im trying not to drive it when possible. I dont know if that would help with a diagnosis.
Basically i just dont know what to do. Ive been reading all different forums all day. I dont know if i have a LSD? I read somewhere that they didnt put in the friction modifier in the rear diff and it made it whine, they added it and it dramatically decreased? could this be all it is? any thoughts?
what should i do besides go to a different mechanic????
is it just a spacing issue??
I just dont want to get screwed again
The parts were 362 and labor 325, does that seem right?
Lastly, the only reason i went to this guy is its a friend of my dads and usually gives us a good deal on labor costs. Im starting to think he might be incompetent when it comes to rear diffs?? This $711 seems really high from what ive seen elsewhere online. I kind of go through my dad, my dad tells me what he says, and how much it is, etc. We havent paid the mechanic yet, if he cant fix it, shouldnt he have told us he was over his head?? i mean, he couldnt even get the rear diff to stop leaking??? Im just torn, i dont want to pay him. All he did was replace parts, that if left as is, will just get warn and break like the last ones, except faster? and maybe even ruin other parts of my rear end.
I really appreciate you sticking around to read it all. thank you for any help you might be able to give.
Last edited by dustinkimball; 04-02-2011 at 11:43 AM.
#2
04-02-2011, 01:12 PM
Record Breaker
I have posted this elsewhere, and have not had much in the way of answers. I have seen a few people with similiar problems, but nothing that has helped me solve my problems. i appreciate any help you might be able to give.
Ok, i am going to start from the beginning. Ill start by saying I am fairly average on my knowledge of vehicles, but fairly dont know a lot on rear diffs, except for the general parts used etc.
My 2000 durango was in the shop for rear breaks, mechanical told me the rear diff fluid was really low, so he topped it off, he said that the leak should be fixed, with parts and labor, about $60. So i brought it in a few days later to him to have it fixed, he gets back to us a few days later and says the rear end has some problems needed to be fixed, we told him to go ahead, (he said things about the pinion bearing and something about the wear pattern on the teeth of the gears). I had noticed the whining sound maybe people have described prior to it going in, it whines when you accelerate, but if you are coasting, its almost nonexistent.
I get it back a week later (parts took awhile he said), and charge us $711. He showed me a box of parts he replaced, i saw the pinion bearing for sure, and a bunch of spacers and other small parts? No gears tho. I drive away and already its whining, and whining loud, louder than before. Way louder than before, 2 or 3 times louder, but still goes away when coasting.
I only put about 50 miles on it since i got it back, and it sat in my driveway, and its still leaking from the rear diff, he couldn't even fix that!
Also, when driving it, it starts to smell a burning smell from the rear end(this also started happening the day before it went in, but i had to drive a lot further for it to start making the smell), like i said i only put 50 miles on it so far, and always only 10 or so miles at a time; im trying not to drive it when possible. I dont know if that would help with a diagnosis.
Basically i just dont know what to do. Ive been reading all different forums all day. I dont know if i have a LSD? I read somewhere that they didnt put in the friction modifier in the rear diff and it made it whine, they added it and it dramatically decreased? could this be all it is? any thoughts?
what should i do besides go to a different mechanic????
is it just a spacing issue??
I just dont want to get screwed again
The parts were 362 and labor 325, does that seem right?
Lastly, the only reason i went to this guy is its a friend of my dads and usually gives us a good deal on labor costs. Im starting to think he might be incompetent when it comes to rear diffs?? This $711 seems really high from what ive seen elsewhere online. I kind of go through my dad, my dad tells me what he says, and how much it is, etc. We havent paid the mechanic yet, if he cant fix it, shouldnt he have told us he was over his head?? i mean, he couldnt even get the rear diff to stop leaking??? Im just torn, i dont want to pay him. All he did was replace parts, that if left as is, will just get warn and break like the last ones, except faster? and maybe even ruin other parts of my rear end.
I really appreciate you sticking around to read it all. thank you for any help you might be able to give.
Ok, i am going to start from the beginning. Ill start by saying I am fairly average on my knowledge of vehicles, but fairly dont know a lot on rear diffs, except for the general parts used etc.
My 2000 durango was in the shop for rear breaks, mechanical told me the rear diff fluid was really low, so he topped it off, he said that the leak should be fixed, with parts and labor, about $60. So i brought it in a few days later to him to have it fixed, he gets back to us a few days later and says the rear end has some problems needed to be fixed, we told him to go ahead, (he said things about the pinion bearing and something about the wear pattern on the teeth of the gears). I had noticed the whining sound maybe people have described prior to it going in, it whines when you accelerate, but if you are coasting, its almost nonexistent.
I get it back a week later (parts took awhile he said), and charge us $711. He showed me a box of parts he replaced, i saw the pinion bearing for sure, and a bunch of spacers and other small parts? No gears tho. I drive away and already its whining, and whining loud, louder than before. Way louder than before, 2 or 3 times louder, but still goes away when coasting.
I only put about 50 miles on it since i got it back, and it sat in my driveway, and its still leaking from the rear diff, he couldn't even fix that!
Also, when driving it, it starts to smell a burning smell from the rear end(this also started happening the day before it went in, but i had to drive a lot further for it to start making the smell), like i said i only put 50 miles on it so far, and always only 10 or so miles at a time; im trying not to drive it when possible. I dont know if that would help with a diagnosis.
Basically i just dont know what to do. Ive been reading all different forums all day. I dont know if i have a LSD? I read somewhere that they didnt put in the friction modifier in the rear diff and it made it whine, they added it and it dramatically decreased? could this be all it is? any thoughts?
what should i do besides go to a different mechanic????
is it just a spacing issue??
I just dont want to get screwed again
The parts were 362 and labor 325, does that seem right?
Lastly, the only reason i went to this guy is its a friend of my dads and usually gives us a good deal on labor costs. Im starting to think he might be incompetent when it comes to rear diffs?? This $711 seems really high from what ive seen elsewhere online. I kind of go through my dad, my dad tells me what he says, and how much it is, etc. We havent paid the mechanic yet, if he cant fix it, shouldnt he have told us he was over his head?? i mean, he couldnt even get the rear diff to stop leaking??? Im just torn, i dont want to pay him. All he did was replace parts, that if left as is, will just get warn and break like the last ones, except faster? and maybe even ruin other parts of my rear end.
I really appreciate you sticking around to read it all. thank you for any help you might be able to give.
I also have the same issue... i was told by about 4 different shops that it would cost anywhere from 800-1200 depending on what they find when they pull the cover off, im still toying around with ideas of what to do.. im thinking about just swapping it out with a used rear temp. since i can get one from a local junkyard for $100...
as for your "repair man" id take it back to him (just to keep the peace with him being your dad's friend) and tell him it still doing it and fix it... if he cant then i would pay him for the parts then use the rest of the money to pay someone that can... I would also document everything date,time, and what was done along with any invoices he gave you just in case it would become a legal issue if he would try to come back at you for the money.. then you would at least have proof that he didnt get the job done... good luck!
BTW you could also add the friction modefier yourself and see if that does it... its about 7 or 8 bucks at advance.....
Last edited by Old_School; 04-02-2011 at 01:16 PM.
#3
04-02-2011, 02:18 PM
Hall Of Fame
Ok I just stopped reading,
Let me be the first one to tell you it is HARD to set up a set of gears! From what you have stated it sounds like he gave you a hell of a deal!!! What is most likely happening is that when he installed the new pinion he doesn't have the depth correct. It sounds like he has the pinion too far into the ring gear and that is causing undue ware (lots of heat because of the friction) and buring up your gears.
You should NOT be hearing any sounds from the diff! Diff temps on new gears should be warm (Mine was 138 F) after 25 miles, 30 minute cool off, 25 miles home and it was only like 30 F outside. My gears never made a sound, in fact they are a lot quiter than the OEM set that was in there!
What you need to do is take it back and tell them you don't think the gears are adjusted correctly because they are wining (and they shouldn't do that) and because they are heating up so bad.
There is a lot of shops out there that simply refuse to work on differentials because they are so finiky. But a GOOD mechanic knows when they screw up and they need to fix it. That set up is really not that hard to do. I would ask to look at the gears when they pull the inspection cover.
You only need Friction Modifier if you have a Limited Slip rear end. You can see this when they lift it. Just turn one of the rear tires and look at the other, if it spins the same direction then you have a LS, if it spins the opisite way then you have a Open gearing. Regardless, it won't do what you are talking aobut if he "forgot" to add it. You would only hear that when turning and it would sound like a chatter/slight wine.
Let me be the first one to tell you it is HARD to set up a set of gears! From what you have stated it sounds like he gave you a hell of a deal!!! What is most likely happening is that when he installed the new pinion he doesn't have the depth correct. It sounds like he has the pinion too far into the ring gear and that is causing undue ware (lots of heat because of the friction) and buring up your gears.
You should NOT be hearing any sounds from the diff! Diff temps on new gears should be warm (Mine was 138 F) after 25 miles, 30 minute cool off, 25 miles home and it was only like 30 F outside. My gears never made a sound, in fact they are a lot quiter than the OEM set that was in there!
What you need to do is take it back and tell them you don't think the gears are adjusted correctly because they are wining (and they shouldn't do that) and because they are heating up so bad.
There is a lot of shops out there that simply refuse to work on differentials because they are so finiky. But a GOOD mechanic knows when they screw up and they need to fix it. That set up is really not that hard to do. I would ask to look at the gears when they pull the inspection cover.
You only need Friction Modifier if you have a Limited Slip rear end. You can see this when they lift it. Just turn one of the rear tires and look at the other, if it spins the same direction then you have a LS, if it spins the opisite way then you have a Open gearing. Regardless, it won't do what you are talking aobut if he "forgot" to add it. You would only hear that when turning and it would sound like a chatter/slight wine.
#4
04-02-2011, 10:57 PM
Record Breaker
Ok I just stopped reading,
Let me be the first one to tell you it is HARD to set up a set of gears! From what you have stated it sounds like he gave you a hell of a deal!!! What is most likely happening is that when he installed the new pinion he doesn't have the depth correct. It sounds like he has the pinion too far into the ring gear and that is causing undue ware (lots of heat because of the friction) and buring up your gears.
You should NOT be hearing any sounds from the diff! Diff temps on new gears should be warm (Mine was 138 F) after 25 miles, 30 minute cool off, 25 miles home and it was only like 30 F outside. My gears never made a sound, in fact they are a lot quiter than the OEM set that was in there!
What you need to do is take it back and tell them you don't think the gears are adjusted correctly because they are wining (and they shouldn't do that) and because they are heating up so bad.
There is a lot of shops out there that simply refuse to work on differentials because they are so finiky. But a GOOD mechanic knows when they screw up and they need to fix it. That set up is really not that hard to do. I would ask to look at the gears when they pull the inspection cover.
You only need Friction Modifier if you have a Limited Slip rear end. You can see this when they lift it. Just turn one of the rear tires and look at the other, if it spins the same direction then you have a LS, if it spins the opisite way then you have a Open gearing. Regardless, it won't do what you are talking aobut if he "forgot" to add it. You would only hear that when turning and it would sound like a chatter/slight wine.
Let me be the first one to tell you it is HARD to set up a set of gears! From what you have stated it sounds like he gave you a hell of a deal!!! What is most likely happening is that when he installed the new pinion he doesn't have the depth correct. It sounds like he has the pinion too far into the ring gear and that is causing undue ware (lots of heat because of the friction) and buring up your gears.
You should NOT be hearing any sounds from the diff! Diff temps on new gears should be warm (Mine was 138 F) after 25 miles, 30 minute cool off, 25 miles home and it was only like 30 F outside. My gears never made a sound, in fact they are a lot quiter than the OEM set that was in there!
What you need to do is take it back and tell them you don't think the gears are adjusted correctly because they are wining (and they shouldn't do that) and because they are heating up so bad.
There is a lot of shops out there that simply refuse to work on differentials because they are so finiky. But a GOOD mechanic knows when they screw up and they need to fix it. That set up is really not that hard to do. I would ask to look at the gears when they pull the inspection cover.
You only need Friction Modifier if you have a Limited Slip rear end. You can see this when they lift it. Just turn one of the rear tires and look at the other, if it spins the same direction then you have a LS, if it spins the opisite way then you have a Open gearing. Regardless, it won't do what you are talking aobut if he "forgot" to add it. You would only hear that when turning and it would sound like a chatter/slight wine.