I'm pretty sure the clutch fan is still good, I try to turn it fairly hard (not much room) and it normally doesn't go past the next blade. Not positive if I'm doing it right though. If I have to replace the water pump I was planning on replacing that too regardless if it is still good. Is that a good Idea? How do I check to see if it is the water pump or the T-stat (w/o pulling it out and boiling it)? Since my radiator doesn't seem to be pulling 50/50 from the overflow should I fill it at the top hose in the cap until it is full, see if the t-stat opens and pulls it in and keep filling till it is full hot? (should I do this w/ 50/50 and try to reuse after or just use a hose and put new 50/50 in at the end? Probably has 1 gallon fresh 50/50 but don't know about the old stuff if there is even any in there )

Oh yeah the E-fan definitely is not coming on, but I still haven't looked at that to figure out why yet. Just looked to see if it was coming on with the a/c and it isn't.

Some more new info . When it started to overheat the other day while going I put the heat on and it came out cold.

 

One pretty sure way to check the radiator is to get a infrared digital thermometer, should be available at Harbor Freight or most major tool/auto parts stores. Basically check the radiator in different areas and look for hot/cold spots. Thats how the dealer diagnosed mine in 2009.

Wherever you get it repaired, Might I strongly....make that VERY STRONGLY suggest that you Dont use PEP BOYS!! Especially with cooling system....Not to get too far off topic but I just wanted to put it out there to avoid future problems.

 

So an update on what I have done so far. I have not gone out to get a thermometer to check the radiator or tried to figure out what is exactly wrong with the electric fan.

I drained the system out today and got almost nothing (woops)! The overflow was full and has been for some time and pretty nasty inside (still need to clean that out so I'm leaving it empy). I turned on the car and started filling it with water from the top hose. When the car heated up the t-stat opened and sucked the water in and I kept filling and doing that for 30 + minutes (almost positive the fan/clutch are fine). Car never came close to overheating stayed a little below half and air was ice cold. At the end though I had someone rev the engine and water shot out of the still open top hose ( I heard this could mean head gasket??). So we put the cap back on and let it idle 15+ more minutes and still no overheating and good a/c. Now I come home 4+ hours later and it doesn't look like there was any leaking (cant tell for sure I made a mess draining and filling it ), but when I opened the radiator cap there was no water visible in the top hose (overflow still empty and I heard no boiling after I turned it off).

Before someone said they thought it might be the head gasket I was going to just replace the radiator cap and possibly the piece that it screws on to. Is there something else that I check first? I was thinking about doing an oil change to see if I saw any 50/50 (but used water for this check could I see that?). If everyone thinks its the cap/connector I planned on doing that, buying a chemical flush and then adding 50/50.

oh yeah should the top hose be empty again?

 

that hose on the radiator cap, the smaller hose is what allows the fluid to expand into the overflow (when it heats up or in your case rev the engine), when the engine cools the fluid contracts again, which is why your cooling system seems low.


the overflow NEEDS TO BE HOOKED UP and NEEDS TO HAVE COOLANT IN IT, please re-read my post, and do this, replace the hose and hook up the overflow again.



btw, im willing to bet this hose being clogged and the bad e-fan are your whole problem, your headgasket is probably fine.

 

When I drained the overflow I pulled the small hose off the cap plugged it into another hose and it poured out great. I swear I got a new cap a while back so I'm not convinced it is the only problem either. So I also think I want to replace the part it screws on to, unless I can get the cap tested at the auto store for free (if I have to pay to test it the cap is only $5). If I was going to replace the coolant filler neck (where the cap screws) I thought I would just do one that comes with the hoses too so I don't have to worry about that later. As for the electric fan I still haven't checked the fuses or relay yet(electrical scares me more than mechanical ). Any tips on checking the relay or just replace it and hope it isn't the fan?

I'm not sure what oem parts you recommend or not or where to get them so please give some input on that. Someone posted a link to rockauto so I have been looking there, but I don't know anything about them. I can't figure out how to directly link rockauto so that the item comes up so I'm just going to copy and paste the info if you want to look up the part #'s. And I am not above replacing a minor part like the coolant hose if there is a chance its cracked or something and that is the issue even though I said it drained and isn't clogged.

GOODYEAR Part # 62427 Radiator Coolant Hose

STANT Part # 10235 {#11235} (Open or Closed System) - 20 psi (SAE Range 18-22 psi) Regular Radiator Cap 20 psi Pressure Rating

ACDELCO Part # 18340L {#89033654} 5/8" x 40 1/8" HOSE,MOLDED HTR TO CONN

ORIGINAL ENGINE MANAGEMENT Part # ER3 {#0018350906, 063906061, 116006513524, 1214764, 126709, 1618951, 1620879, 1622657, 165937503, 2098912, 4263589, 4320629, 5516038407, 61609490201, 8760399, 94409461501, E7HZ14677A} (Only 2 Remaining)

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # RU380 {#4885635AA, 4885635AB, 4885635AC, 5061575AA, 5174618AA}
Front

 

I have a 2001 4.7 that overheats, new motor,waterpump, t-stat,fan clutch,coolent,rad. cap and can hear e-fan running all the time.Also a/c stopped working about the same time. help?

 

You need to burp burp burp that 4.7L motor!!!!!!

 

what is the proper procudure for burping when already filled? Do I take out the screw and add more coolant in the rad. cap untill it comes out of the burp screw hole then recap and I'm good to go?

 

With the cap off the radiator and the engine warm it should burp itself. Mine took 1 time and it was done. I haven't heard anyone mention coolant temp sensor. If it is not working properly it will not turn the fan on. Unplug the fan and put a jumper to the positive and negative terminals of the battery for a quick second to see if the fan turns on. If it turns on then it is possible the temp switch is bad. If you can get a scanner from advance auto parts or autozone, plug it in and see what the actuall reading on the coolant temperature. It might be showing cooler than what it is supposed to be so it won't turn the fan on. Also if you cleaned out your radiator fins please check between the condenser(the a/c radiator) and the actual radiator. You might have to take the top of the radiator to check it. I can probably bet there is a bunch of crap in there not allowing air to reach the engine. If it can't flow all the way though it will get hot.