Hydra,

Your are 100% right here... Torque-to-Yield (TTY) bolts *should* not be reused. Matter of fact, if you look at a lot of other TTY applications very often the bolts will snap on removal, requiring replacement. The 4.7 (again, IMHO) is a bit different. The bolts are stockier and don't seem to have any visible or measurable signs of stretching when compared to new, never installed bolts. I wrestled with this one when I did my heads and actually measured / compared my old bolts to factory new ones. The length & diameter were within a couple thousandths either way, and the threads had no distortion whatsoever. Matter of fact, if you randomly measured new ones and old ones the variations were impossible to detect.

If the motor was undergoing a full rebuild with the intention of keeping it forever then I definately would replace them. However, since it's just having "required" repairs done, as long as the threads / shanks aren't deformed I'd have no problem re-using them.

Regarding torque wrenches, I think 4% error is being generous! I *love* seeing guys try to set torque with the beam style pointer ones. Hanging all over it while trying to read the needle pointer.

I'd have to look it up, but I think the final sequence was bring the bolts to 60 ft/lbs and then 90 degrees from there. My guess would be that it brings them into the 100-110 ft/lb range if not higher. I put mine back in at book specs and have had no issues for 20k miles. What's most important is that they're done CONSISTENTLY across the entire head.

If you havn't done it yet, I'd strongly reccomend you pull out the inner fender liners (plastic) to gain access. The rear lower bolts are tough to get to, and even harder to tighten back up!

Bob

 

The Haynes manual also says reusing the head bolts is acceptable as long as there is no sign of stretch or taper. They all look good and I will be reusing them. I will be renting a torque wrench (1/2" drive) and following the manual for tightening sequence. They recommend a seven step process starting with the interior bolts then doing the smaller end bolts then back and forth til specs are met. The hardest one is going to be the bottom bolt by the brake booster. I could not even remove it from the head when it was loose because the booster was in the way. Had to pull it out half way, then lifted the head off.
I will be dropping off the heads for service today, and continue my prep work for the rebuild. Thanks for the tip on the exhaust manifold Bob!

 

When you put the drivers head back on put the rear bolt in the head first but hold it up by wrapping a small rag around the head of the bolt. It'll allow you to put the head in place without the threads hitting anything, otherwise you'll never be able to get the bolt back in. Learn from my mistakes!!!

Bob

 

I was always curious if anyone had their torque wrenches calibrated periodically? Reason being, in my past career it was a requirement every 90 days if memory serves.

 

Military? We had the same requirement for ours, testing every 90 and sent in for recalibration yearly. Kinda silly if it never left the toolbox for the entire time.
Provided it hasn't been dropped or abused, I've gotta believe they're "close enough" for the backyard mechanic. Pro's, or those who use them constantly might have a different take on it though.

Bob

 

Changed my mind. New set of bolts is only $35. Pretty cheap insurance to make sure my hard work pays off. New bolts it is. Will check back in a few days with some pics of my progress. Thank you all again for your assistance and knowledge....this forum is the BEST!

 

Really? Where did you find them? I was quoted a price of $110 for both sides when I did mine.

Agreed, for $35 go ahead and replace them. It'll take you that long in labor to get the old ones cleaned up!

Bob

 

I want to say I paid about $3o bucks last time I did mine at www.rockauto.com but that was a long time ago. Looked and they still look to be around there.

Anyway, just got up from packing bearings and setting brakes on my travel trailer (where I've been the last couple of days). Been doing a wheel every night among other thing to get ready for next week. Going to be taking the boat out as well and doing some campin/fishin during the week while everyone else is working.....


Anyway, you bring a good subject to the table Bob. I've re-used head bolts many times but I built my last one for life so I used new. But like I said I always re-torque just a tiny bit more. As for the torque wrench calibration, do back yard mechanics actually do that.......LMFAO

 

Well, its back together. Now the fun is beginning. Barely idles. Got code 0352. Changed out coil at #2, ran a little better, but is still stumbling. checked all plugs and #6 was oily. replaced with #2 coil and got code 356. Replaced #6 coil and plug, popped right off and ran for about ten seconds, then started to miss again. now I get code 352 again. I KNOW it is put together right, now I need to figure out what the F is going on with this electrical nightmare. What I have read so far tells me it might be the PCM?? should I keep replacing coils??? HELP.....

 

OK, let's Start from scratch here.
First, what did you end up replacing / reusing / doing to the engine? I'll assume both heads were checked / rebuilt to specs and engine reassembled with new gaskets. Make 100% sure that your timing is correct by setting the timing mark to zero on the balancer and making sure both V8 marks on the camshafts are vertical.

From there, check ALL of your wiring harness connections to both the injectors and coil packs and make sure that they're clean & making a solid connection, and that the wires havn't been melted by laying against various engine parts. Clean the contacts with a spray contact cleaner if they look dirty at all.

Check that your plugs are new (Cheap Champion plugs are what you want, NOTHING else) and gapped properly (.040 but double check that, I'm going strictly from memory here).

Clear the computer codes (remove battery lead & hold key to start for 10 seconds) then put the battery back on & start it up, don't touch the gas pedal at all. Let it run for a minute or so to give the computer a chance to read the throttle sensors and set the idle for itself.

Now to troubleshooting..... buy yourself one or two new coil packs and swap them inplace for those that show an error code. Given the fact that the code you're getting is on the primary side of the coil, I would lean towards a wiring issue and not a bad coil, especially since you've already swapped one that was working from 6 to 2 and the code went back to the 2 plug.

It's going to run a little bit rough until the PCM "learns" the engine a bit (O2 sensors, TB sensors, etc.) but if you're consistently kicking up primary coil codes I would look at your wiring harness / coil pack connectors real close.

Bob