Should I remove the mounting braket with the caliper when changing brakes?
At least one of my rotors is warped so I'm going to be changing them and the pads and I remember hearing a while back last time I did my brakes that the slide pin threads have a tendency to strip, would it make more sense to remove the entire caliper by unbolting the mounting bracket when doing the brakes rather than risk unscrewing the slide pins? I haven't looked at the brakes since the last time I did them so I apologize if the question seems stupid, I'd just rather avoid having to put in an insert and re-drill and tap. If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it.
also do most people do the rear drum brakes at the same time? I'm sure those are coming due as well. Any issues to watch out for there?
Thanks a lot
also do most people do the rear drum brakes at the same time? I'm sure those are coming due as well. Any issues to watch out for there?
Thanks a lot
The slide pins are the main bolts. You have to remove them to replace the pads. I would just start and hope you don't have an issue. Remember that I think the heads are Allen's and metric large ones at that.
As for the rear drum brakes, Normally those do not need replaced as 70% of braking goes to the front. I have never seen a car or truck go through a set of rear shoes in 100k miles without some kind of brake issue that caused it. Simply put, I wouldn't replace them until you are getting close and your yearly inspection should pick that up. However if you want to look they are a PITA to get the rear drums off unless you take them off at intervals. You take the tire off and smack between the lugs with a good mallet hard. Protect the lugs by placing the lug nuts on them so you don't scar them up. You might even need to back off the shoes to get the drums off. If you do decide to replace them, have the drums turned.
As for my opinion, I like Duralast Gold series pads and a good set of rotors. You can get the pads at Auto Zone. If you do replace your rotors, I suggest you have them turned or at least checked for true before you walk away with them. They have been known to warp on the store shelves.
As for the rear drum brakes, Normally those do not need replaced as 70% of braking goes to the front. I have never seen a car or truck go through a set of rear shoes in 100k miles without some kind of brake issue that caused it. Simply put, I wouldn't replace them until you are getting close and your yearly inspection should pick that up. However if you want to look they are a PITA to get the rear drums off unless you take them off at intervals. You take the tire off and smack between the lugs with a good mallet hard. Protect the lugs by placing the lug nuts on them so you don't scar them up. You might even need to back off the shoes to get the drums off. If you do decide to replace them, have the drums turned.
As for my opinion, I like Duralast Gold series pads and a good set of rotors. You can get the pads at Auto Zone. If you do replace your rotors, I suggest you have them turned or at least checked for true before you walk away with them. They have been known to warp on the store shelves.
Last edited by hydrashocker; Jul 30, 2011 at 04:23 PM.
Thanks for the reply. I thought I remembered the pins needing to be removed, but I wasn't sure. The last car I did brakes on that wasn't the case. I'm at 156K and don't have a yearly inspection so I'm just guessing the shoes need to be done, but I'll confirm before starting and just do the front for now. I've got some lifetime replacement pads from autozone, so hopefully those are the gold series.









