And yes, POR15 is awesome stuff. You can brush it on small areas or spray larger places easily. Lasts forever and looks great.

Bob

 

Not *one* of the boneyards around me had an A/C compressor (without read air) for my D.. I asked one, if they did, how much? He said $150.00 - even if that was the case, for $65.00; I'll take the rebuilt one.

And you very well may be right on the clutch rebuild; short of dealing with the Freon - replacing the whole compressor was a piece of cake. In my case, I was 90% sure the compressor itself wasn't seized, since it was working perfectly prior to this. That all being said, it isn't out of the question that you could replace the clutch and a year later - be replacing the compressor. Worst part is on a failed compressor, you might just end up with metal all in your AC lines/condenser/evaporator; if you consider that... yeah, ok I agree with Bob - you might just wanna replace the whole thing..

 

Once you said this I knew what you were talking about. Yea I would agree with Bob, there is no other way to re-route without a pulley from what I can see.

 

Indeed, I'm pretty good at rigging things too, but this one had me stumped as to how to do it - if you could. Kinda glad in the end that I just replaced the compressor anyway, it's running smooth as silk now, except for the little miss it sometimes has in the morning. Not sure what's causing that - already has new plugs and air filter on it.

I'm thinking maybe the TPS or Idle Air Control, it quits the miss once it warms up some. That's kind of a different subject however; and I'll be too broke this coming month to address it, particularly since I still have a power steering leak to track down. Pretty sure it's just a rusty hose going to the gearbox, but I haven't dug into it too much. Usually I'll do a best guess in that case and get all the parts I might need. I suspect if one of those metal tubes has rusted through, the other might not be far behind, so I'm going to replace them both. And on top of that - yet *another* blower motor resistor, I think it might have burnt the harness up again - but this time Dodge isn't getting the $60.00 for the kit - I'm going to head to lowes with one of my three old blower motor resistors, get some high end contacts and solder them on there - to the wires, not the resistor. Kinda tacky from one point of view, but the one I bought from Dodge burnt up, so I figure this can't hurt to try. I can always get another kit for it.

But this time, I'm going to get whatever resistor has the longest warranty and keep the friggin' receipt!

Then, money permitting; I want to just replace the O2, TPS, and Idle Air all at once and be done with them.

 

Autozone sold me the "lifetime" one 23 bucks. They've replaced it once already. Make sure you ask about the warranty before you buy it, they have two different models (but I suspect that they're exactly the same part!)

Don't let the power steering drip go too long without fixing it. If your pump runs out of fluid you'll tear it up in no time flat, plus you'll be in the same boat as you were with the A/C clutch.... you can't put the belt on without it! Check the steel portion of both lines towards the bottom where they curl and go into the rack unit. They corrode from road salt & get pinhole leaks. A quick, easy, & cheap fix, I think the lines were under 20 bucks each if I remember right. Be careful taking off the pressure sending unit on the high pressure line, it breaks easy.

Bob

Bob

 

Yes, I was planning on getting one with a lifetime warranty this time around. That way I can just swap it out every year, lol.

And yeah - I'm being real cautious of my fluid level, but I have a surgery coming up at the end of this week so I need to be careful the rest of the time - I don't need this delayed again. Plus, I don't want to have to replace the power steering unit or the belt again either.

It looks like the leak is just that - a rusted pipe. I'll be sure to hit the ends of the pipe up with some PB Blaster to make sure those bolts move easy - thanks for the heads up