Here is what I am thinking of doing. Tell me your thoughts on this.

I am going to install a 2003 master cylinder, and delete my proportioning valve. I will jump the 'Brake' light sensor to kill the warning light, and I will run my lines directly from the master to their next stop in essence removing the proportioning valve, which seems to be what is the source of my problems.

Thoughts?

 

Good luck!

 

Eliminating your prop valve wont give you the effect you are looking its there to control how much psi goes to the front and rear. If you take it out it becomes 50/50 and you will definetly have more problems with the rear.

 

I cant find a good pic of the abs set up on an 03. Could you post a pic?

 

Today I removed the proportioning valve and installed a 2003 master cylinder.

Much improved, but there is still an issue.

Before, even in gear, the rears were locked tight, and it took a lot of throttle to get moving.

Now, it will actually creep in gear with no throttle, and while I do feel a tad more resistance than I did before the swap, I think that has a lot to do with having 4 sets of pads holding on instead of just 2 sets, and a some VERY worn out and useless drums.

So, I test drove again, and like I said much improved.

But, when I returned I again checked the rotors. The fronts were cool enough that I could touch them. The rears were hot enough to burn me, but NOT as hot as they were on that last test drive.

I do believe there is still a problem and while I don't know yet how to locate it at least I have a drivable vehicle for now.