Where do you live? And how long have you had the Durango? In many states, the dealer is still responsible for repairs for 30 days, sometimes longer. He may be telling you he can't help, but could be legally obligated to repair it, especially if the problems started right after you bought it.

Car dealers (new and used) are notoriously dishonest, and I wouldn't believe they even bothered to change oil unless I saw video of it, much less some 90 point inspection.

 

Yeah,No way let them off the hook!!! My state Calls it the "Lemon Law"
He's right,almost every state has some form of it to protect buyers from crappy dealers...Gotta lawyer in family or as a friend,have em give a call for you...or call your state Attorney General, they'll guide you to the exact people to help...90 point inspection my ***...

@ Magnum,...I now with the 4.7 you can't drive the pump,I was wondering more if cranking with a jump pack is worse for these engines than others,(should have mentioned I use a remote start also) or if there's a preferred method for turning them over,agreed on manual clean out though,hard build up gotta be scraped out

 

Laz<----Yes, removing the distributor and using a drill to enact the pump is a great idea, however you don't get heat involved and you don't get the splashing around and pressure shooting throughout the motor, so for instance the wrist bearings and oil rings don't get cleaned out. Personally at just idle it should not hurt as long as you don't go too long or without enough lubricant. Now step on the gas or load the engine then you might see it blow.

You are going to get a lot better result if you run the motor on clean out period. The reason your shop doesn't is because they don't want to warranty if they blow the engine. Remember, there will always be that dumb *** that is employed that will push it to the max and there you have it, a $3000 job on the shop. If it was my shop I would do the same, however just me well that's different ya know?

 

Yup,exatly....It's mostly one step in the process and mostly for dealing with engines that've sunk. ( I know I'm off topic)All based on engine type and what's correct for each one,I use a dozen other tricks too...Then it's the same,.... solvent flush and a few oil changes.....they all still get to running it to be thorough.
You're right on with warranty,and yeah,I've seen an over zealous nitwit tap the throttle and throw a rod or spin the cam etc etc....I bum for the customer but I stll laugh for a minute(heehe)
You guys have all dealt with clogged motors and such,I'm just pickin your brains,seeing what you prefer and what you guys know works best...(not to pump up any ego's but so far you guys here have saved me a lot of time and $$ getting used to my Durango,it's new to me)
Any way I'm off topic and this is to help get Durango Mama through a disaster.I didn't mean to vear it off with my questions so I'm gonna go flog myself and get back tryin to help her through this.....

 

I really don't think cranking it.....even with the plugs out.... would spin the pump fast enough to get results..except an overheated starter. You can try with some flush at idle watching the oil pressure.....But if chunks make it past the screen they can end up in a bearing or oil pump pressure relief valve. All the pickups that I have seen clogged you have to pick at the crap, bang 'em a bit to loosen up more..flush in a parts washer etc. I work at an Auto repair shop (I'm certified and have been building performance engines sense the late '70's...and no I haven't seen a real live dinosaur in person ) When I get a vehicle with an oil pressure problem like that, and a pan that is a real pain to pull.. I always wanted to try like a 4" hole saw under the pickup and weld in a patch piece after. Boss says no...But maybe one day.....:-)

 

Yeah magnum,That's what I was gettin at,the starter wear,power dist and relays etc,and no,you don't get it spinning fast enough to do a LOT of the work,just enough so after you get fresh oil in your running on less contaminants. JFTR,if we have a low/no oil pressure,and it's been diagnosed to the pump or pickup, none of this applies.Shop s.o.p is to remove the pan and pump and manually clean or replace..but for us that means swing the crane over,pull the engine.Remember,I mentioned that I was curious if there's a comparable procedure you guys here prefer,for us the engine has to come out or we can't work under it(marine shop) In many,MANY instances it winds up the same though,clogged pick up,we see a lot cuz people try to get away with fewer oil changes and our engines are under heavy load at all times(take a beating pushing a boat)

I like the idea of the hole,like installing an inspection plate so you don't have to pull the pan...(I cut one of my van's floor plate to install a new pump/sender with out dropping the tank,same kind of idea,love shortcuts like that) you could service the oil pickup in 3-4 less hours. Patent the idea before anyone steals it from you,you're on to something there. You're boss will always say no,good idea but it wasn't HIS idea....