window regulators, electric
Hi folks,
My wife has a 2000 Durango, and this is the 2nd time I've had the rear doors apart to take out the window regulators. Both windows quit going down (about 3 months apart from each other), and after I had the first regulator out, I hooked the electrical connection back up to the door, and VOIL'A, it worked again. So, I re-installed it, and did the same to the other door, with the same result. Now, after about a year, both window's have quit working again. I have removed the regulator from the drivers side door, and again, it works when the electrical plug is re-attached to the door harness. Anybody have any idea, as too why they won't work when they are still in the door????[>:] How are they grounded? Could I have a bad ground where the regulator/door are bolted together?
Thanks!
Dewey
My wife has a 2000 Durango, and this is the 2nd time I've had the rear doors apart to take out the window regulators. Both windows quit going down (about 3 months apart from each other), and after I had the first regulator out, I hooked the electrical connection back up to the door, and VOIL'A, it worked again. So, I re-installed it, and did the same to the other door, with the same result. Now, after about a year, both window's have quit working again. I have removed the regulator from the drivers side door, and again, it works when the electrical plug is re-attached to the door harness. Anybody have any idea, as too why they won't work when they are still in the door????[>:] How are they grounded? Could I have a bad ground where the regulator/door are bolted together?
Thanks!

Dewey
Wow. I'm having a similar problem.
I just bought my Durango used. It's a 1999. At the dealership all the windows worked fine. The next day both windows on the driver's side wouldn't go down. Yesterday, the front driver's side window started working again... but the back driver's side window still won't go down.
I just bought my Durango used. It's a 1999. At the dealership all the windows worked fine. The next day both windows on the driver's side wouldn't go down. Yesterday, the front driver's side window started working again... but the back driver's side window still won't go down.
This is a regular D problem. Apparently, the original cable mechanism can get jammed up on itself, and the motor dosn't produce enough torque to break itself free. Replacement regulators supposedly were redesigned.
My left passenger window wasn't working a few months ago. I went as far as ordering a new regulator, taking off the door panel and I started to remove the old unit. As soon as I loosened the screws the window made a "sticky" noise as it unstuck from the window rubber. My original regulator did work, my window was simply "glued" to the rubber! I have kept the glass clean and the rubber conditioned and no stuck windows since then.
My left passenger window wasn't working a few months ago. I went as far as ordering a new regulator, taking off the door panel and I started to remove the old unit. As soon as I loosened the screws the window made a "sticky" noise as it unstuck from the window rubber. My original regulator did work, my window was simply "glued" to the rubber! I have kept the glass clean and the rubber conditioned and no stuck windows since then.
Update:
After determining that I had power going to the window on the passenger side (rear), I loosened one bottom bolt holding the regulator slide. I activated the switch, and the motor started to work again. I suppose it could be binding up, but I put an "outside lock" washer (looks like a "star" pattern) between the door frame and the track assembly. I figure if it is/was a grounding problem, the star washer will (by it's design) poke through the paint into the metal of both the door and track, thereby ensuring a good ground.
I guess if it still fails down the road, I will have to break down and replace the assembly with the newer replacement.
I'm hoping for the $ 0.08 washer, that I fixed the problem.
Dewey
After determining that I had power going to the window on the passenger side (rear), I loosened one bottom bolt holding the regulator slide. I activated the switch, and the motor started to work again. I suppose it could be binding up, but I put an "outside lock" washer (looks like a "star" pattern) between the door frame and the track assembly. I figure if it is/was a grounding problem, the star washer will (by it's design) poke through the paint into the metal of both the door and track, thereby ensuring a good ground.
I guess if it still fails down the road, I will have to break down and replace the assembly with the newer replacement.
I'm hoping for the $ 0.08 washer, that I fixed the problem.
Dewey



