got in my durango yesterday it started drove 20ft and it died and wont start. it has done it before but it always started back up

i there are no codes on the comp. so im guessing its not a crank sensor

the fuel pump cycles and makes noise how would i test it??/

 

Not sure how to test your fuel pump except for hearing it, BUT, First thing I would do is check your battery connections and the connection to the alternator.

 

it cranks just fine it doesnt seem sluggish and the alternator seemed to be working fine

 

What engine?

 

4.7l it has died 2 times in the past but it started right back up and ran fine for the past 2 months

 

Plugs weak, wires shot, Battery/Battery Connection

It can turn over fine, but not have 100% enough juice to start the truck or keep it running!! I had an issue exactly like this in an old 89 ford. Replaced the alternator because it went bad, then for about 3 months it ran fine, then one time it wouldn't start, wiggled the connections and it started up, got out of the parking lot, it died, wouldn't jump start either. Replaced the terminals and the battery, never had the problem again, it did it about 3 times before I changed all that (the first time it happened it was in the middle of Hurricane Irene leaving work!)

 

A failed crank or cam sensor may not show a fault right away, especially if it's a chafed wire or intermittent connection. The cam sensor is on the passenger side head towards the front. Crank sensor is on the block near the transmission. Try unplugging either one and see if it throws a code, then plug it back in and clear it.

Fuel pump pressure can be tested (sort of) by looking at the fuel rail on (I believe) the passenger side and you should see a black cap that screws off. It has a schrader valve (tire valve) connection on it that you can press with a screwdriver and see if fuel is under pressure after cranking it a few times. Be careful as it'll be pressurized pretty good - cover it with a rag and DON'T press the valve with just your bare finger!

Spark is tougher to check as this has individual coil packs on it. you can pull one of them and insert a spark tester (or a spare plug while grounding it) but if you get no spark at any of the cylinders the problem is somewhere else because they're competely controlled by the computer. Your back to crank & cam positioners at that point....

Hope this helps some.
Bob

 

i have seen alot of post abot the crank sensor can i test it? is there a spec?

 

no spec that i know of(or can find, i did look) for the crank sensor, no plug wires on the 4.7l engine so whoever said that should be ignored.

i would check the connection at the crank sensor for sure, and at the cam sensor (although it should run w/o a cam signal, just not well)

if you put a multi-meter on the crank sensor while turning it over and set the mutlimeter to A/C volts it should move, wont tell you if its sending the correct signal, but should give you an idea of if its sending a signal at all.

 

thanks for all the help the crank sensor is onl 40$ i think il just try it and see what happens