Had some time to check mine...02 4.7. Rear wiper relay and fuse are in the engine compartment fuse box. The other one i do not have an engine light so wouldnt be able to tell ya

 

Ok! This site has been very helpful to me, a DIYer, over the past several years. This post may help someone else.

My D is:
2000, 4.7 SLT, part time 4WD, Auto, Hunter Green with >290,000 miles!!!!!!! I LOVE MY DURANGO!!!! Best SUV ever built!!! Chrysler got this one right.

Anyway, here is my 2 cents.

Current (nuisance) problems I am working on…

1. Battery dies overnight if I don’t use it. Got an F150 and 4 cylinder toy to save on gas. Durango is what, 10mile/gal.
2. The wobbling transfer case lever. Not engaging. Happened last winter. I ignored it. Fortunately we had a good winter in the Philly area. Stuck in 2WD
3. Busted AC system – crapped out about 125,000miles. Don’t need it during the Winter, Fall and Spring. 2-3 months of hot weather. . .eeeehhh!!
4. Just ordered an OEM muffler.

Things I have serviced:

1. Up to 5 Batteries because if the constant drain probelm. New ones will last about 4 days before draining. Then get progressively worst. Till I return to the store for another( under warranty).
2. Radiator, about 250,000miles- $425
3. Left wheel hub about 200,000 miles - $515
4. Crank shaft sensor - $25 – DIY. Used my scanner.
5. Front Rotors about 270,000 miles. Front pads 3 times - $175 DIY
6. Oil change – every 4-5000 miles, RELIGIOUSLY!!!! Semi-synthetic. Fast Lube. Not worth my time
7. Transmission - never changed oil. Oil remains really clean. Fast Lube always check and confirm it is good.
8. Diffs – Change oil once.
9. Never gave it a tune up . Idles and run like brand new.
10. Checking the electrical problem with battery drain - $1200. Changed CTM which was not the problem. Dealer would not gave me back my money. Chrysler ignored me.
11. Muffler 220,000miles – $225. Got an after- market cheapo. Now regretting it. Fell apart and it did not have that Durango growl! Instead it had a “hissing” sound.
12. AC compressor. $250. Worked for about one season and gas leaked out again. Did a DIY refill several seasons, now, burnt compressor. Can’t find the leak.
13. Set of Tires 3 times. About to change back to OEM type.

Working on. ..

1. Wobbly 4WD shifter – well guess what. Went underneath yesterday(after reading about the problem on this board) and the linkage is still there but one grommet is gone. Will install two brand new grommets. Looks easy but tight to replace from undermeath.
2. Recently changed my Instrument cluster PRDNL(electronic) was giving problems for some time(years). I ignored it. Got a used one from scrape yard. . And guess what!!!!??? Battery problem went away!!!! That was about 5 days ago. Durango started right up after 5 days GTFOH!. Back then the D. Dealer said to change the cluster to solve the problem with the draining battery. I said no, @ $1100. Since I wasted about $800 on the CTM(that ticking sound from the dash- it was not the problem).

Before I also tried dis-connecting the rear wiper motor . After 2 days the battery went dead as usual. Now, this is the longest the D sat without running and started right up.

More on the instrument Cluster. I made about three attempts to change it.

1. From the scrape yard. It was mechanical (PRNDL) and mine was electronic , scrape guy would not take it back. So it sat in my garage for about 1 year.
2. Got an electronic one from ebay. Installed it and got the “no buss” display. I thought they were incompatible. Or needed flashing or something. Returned it to the ebay guy.
3. 2nd ebay guy. Sent me a mechanical. This time I decided to install it (although the PRNDL) was missing/not connect). And Badda Bing!!! It worked. No flashing needed. Miles on this one was 66,000. Now I realize that the mechanical I have in my garage could work!!! Returned this ebay mechanical one which was missing the PRNDL part anyway. Installed the one Cluster that sat for about 1 year in my garage. Mileage was about 166,000. No flashing needed. PRNDL now shifting but I am ordering the bracket/adjuster for the PRNDL cable from the dealer(convert from electronic to mechanical).


Hope my experiences help someone.

 

Thanks for the good info but how did fix your #10:

"10. Checking the electrical problem with battery drain - $1200. Changed CTM which was not the problem."

I've traced my drain (~500mA) to my CTM (pulling fuses). I'm hoping that there is just a short in one of the accessories it feeds and not the CTM itself. The only electrical issues I have other than the drain are flickering dome lights, and that might just be from the low battery. I have an '02 Dakota 4.7L 4x4 Sport Ed. so no power anything, no aftermarket electrical accessories, and not much to go wrong... Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a damien-chrysler CTM? (model and serial # attached in picture)

I'm pretty sure my issue is in the "upper" (largest) of the the three wiring bundles which seems to control the "front of vehicle" accessories, because when I unplug it the drain stops (unfortunately I also loose my headlights & such). The drain also stops when I pull the "bottom" (white) bundle but I think that's just because it contains the power to the CTM.

My short term solution has been to unplug the battery after each trip and I have noticed that there is a slightly audible "clicking sound" near the battery tray, which does go away when I pull the fuses to the CTM & kill the drain. Battery tests fine at autozone, and is new but has also been drained pretty low (twice now). Oddly this clicking (and corresponding drain) is periodic and never happens in the morning when the vehicle is cold, but always happens in the afternoon when it is warmer out. I'm pretty sure it's the sound of electrical discharge but I don't see any sparking in the dark and I can't tell exactly where it's coming from.

Any advise would be appreciated,

Thanks,
Keith

 

the clicking could be a sticky relay attempting to engage, i would see if there are any relays int he PDC that are clicking (its right next to the batter)

 

It does kinda sound like a relay going spastic, but when I pulled my fuses I pulled each relay in the PDC individually and it didn't stop the drain...

 

Hi: I'm having somewhat the same prob. I have replaced the CTM because my interior lights and key surround light were staying on. Now that is OK but the batt still goes down if left for two weeks. Recharges back up OK but at auto parts they saw a short 2.4Amp draw after shutdown for only a short period and then it went to .32 Amps. The batt and Alt are OK.
Have you checked glove compartment light?
Hook up meter between batt and cable and start pulling one fuse at a time.
Good luck, DP

 

you have to disconnect the rear wiper from the motor 2 screws take the back panel off , the fuse is connected with the fronts and rear so dont pull it. im having same issue , brand new battery keeps draining , the altenator is good , no loose or aftermarket features , Ive bin over every little thing until I unhooked the rear wiper motor.

 

I had a parasitic drain situation that turned out to be a maladjusted glove box light switch keeping the glove box light on when closed.

 

Obviously there are several things that causes the battery drian. Glove box light, wiper motor, cluster etc. The clicking from the CTM is only a symptom and NOT the cause. So don't go changing the CTM. Waste of money.

The two common cause is wiper motor and glove box light.

Update - The AC leak was from the evaporator. Added "134" gas with dye and saw the dye dripping on the bottom under the car. Used a electronic leak detector probing into the vent and wammo leak at the evaporator. $1500 repair at dealer for a truck worth...$1500. Forget it!!

remember the clicking sound from the CTM is NOT an indication that the CTM is bad. It is just that a relay is spazing out because of lack of power...ie dead battery.

For the wobbling 4WD shifter - Street machanic changed it for $50. He needed to unbolt the cross-shaft to gain access. The part/grommets(2) cost about $50 at the dealer. Shifter worked fine afterwards.

Hope this help someone

Oh! the D is gone. WEBUYANYCAR.COM. Great vehicle. loved it!