im going to be doing my inner and outer tie rod ends this week and i need to know if theres a special tool i need to remove the inner tie rod. or if i just clasp on it with a pipe wrench and whack it with a bfh. also any advise on lower ball joints would be appreciated.

 

They just turn out with a wrench. In fact you just take the tie rod nut off and smack it lightly with a hammer. Then unscrew the inner from the bar and take both pieces off at the same time without disconnecting them. Then get your new pieces and match them up in total length with your old set, tighten the adjuster, screw the inner back and pop you joint back into the spindle.

This way you stay very close to your alignment. Don't forget an alignment for that matter and remember to grease your new componants, as well as the rest of your front end and drive shafts.

 

thanks man for all the help you have been great. a knowledgable kin. im starting to realize that this vehicle is somewhat easy to work on. and hopefully ill be able to enjoy it for years to come. my next project is the headers. ugh. im dreading doing em cuz i know all the bolts are going to break.

 

also i went and got a pit man arm puller in case that outer tie rod end gives me any trouble. but i guess thats what a bfh (5lb sledge) is for.

 

You will NEVER need a BFH to pop a tie rod end out of a spindle, they are tapered and lubed for hell sakes. Just take out the cater pin, remove the nut, then gently smack with a hammer, it's literally that easy!

If you smack it with a BFH you will bend the spindle end!

If you find yourself in a jam and can't get them separator for whatever reason then you use a tie rod separator, which looks like a big tuning fork that is wedged and you hit the end of it and it separates them.

Here: http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch...ator-1759.html


A pitman arm puller is built for removing pitman arms (with aid of an impact wrench).

 

Also... the TREs are Left Right specific. Look for the little scallop that allows the wheel to turn/pass at full chock. Otherwise they will rub (like when backing out while turning out of a parking space) and you will know you have them on the wrong side(s.)

HTH,

IndyDurango

 

+1

Yep, I was going to add that but forgot. The tie rod ends have a left and right sides for install, or the tire will rub on them. Make sure you place them in their right sides.

 

i will put them on the right sides. the guy at autozone marked the boxes for me. and i was told by a few ppl that the pitman arm puller could be used for both the pitman arm, and for your tie rod ends in case you dont want to ruin your boots using a pickle fork. which my outer rod ends arent bad its just my inner. so i wanted to save my outer tie rod ends for down the road in case one of the new ones gets ruined.

but i got another question. do i need a crowfoot wrench for my inner tie rod ends. or will i have enough room for an adjustible wrench if i just turn my steering all the way out to the side im working on?

 

so today i did what i was dreding and it actually went very well. i did both lower ball joints and both sides tre. both inner and outer. and it only took me 4 hours. i was so shocked. it took me almost 3 to do the drivers side. but when i went to the passenger side. it flew by. i was also surprised that i was able to figure out the ball joint press so easily. lol. hell if garages get paid like $300 to do lower ball joints. i should get into that business. hell i could do 2 cars or trucks a day and make 600 dollars a day. wow. it actuially bothers me to see that i can do it with minimal tools and no lift. and get it done that quickly and torq everything down. in such a short period of time and they get paid twice there normal rate to do something thats just as easy as doing shocks or struts. but whatever.

 

Lowers here are $75 per side for labor. Just had it done on Tuesday on one of my Durango's.

IndyD