1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

2003 Durango rear heat/ac mode door

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Old May 9, 2012 | 09:24 PM
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Default 2003 Durango rear heat/ac mode door

Just finished tearing apart my 03' durango to diagnose and fix the cold air/no heat issues in the rear heat/ac system. Found that both actuator stop tabs are broken off and the flapper doors are both broken internally. Ordered the new complete, re-designed heat/ac box with upgraded actuator couplers and flapper doors. Thanks dodge for a crappy design! Heres my last issue. The blend door actuator works when I switch the ceiling contol **** from heat to cool. Seems like the actuator is rotating very far and could potentially snap the stops again. The mode door is the biggest mystery. What controls it? This door would deflect air either to the ceiling vents or to the passenger wheel well vent next to the center passenger seat. Switched actuator with the blend door and it works fine. There is no floor/ceiling selector **** for the rear heat/ac system. What am I mising? Do I have to recalibrate the actuators or do they stop themselves? Pulling my hair out!!!
 
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Old May 9, 2012 | 09:43 PM
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the floor/cieling selector is the same as what controls floor/ceiling (face) for the front, there is one knowb which switches it for both front and rear at the same time.
 
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Old May 11, 2012 | 09:29 AM
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Ok... both actuators are now operartational using the front and rear controls. Any tricks to removing rear heat/ac box? Can I do the removal and install without losing freon or antifreeze? Lastly...Do both actuators re-learn how far to open the dampers or do I have to re calibrate them?
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 09:50 PM
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Here's a thread where I posted on similar work, with photos:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...orks-fine.html

Yes, I think the actuators do self-calibrate. That's what mine appeared to do, and control has been accurate for the year since the repair.

I doubt it's possible to remove the box without breaching the heater core and ac evaporator plumbing. That was part of the reason why I did the repair the way I did it. The failure appears to happen when the lug breaks off the actuator coupling. Once that breaks, the actuator over-stresses the door within the housing. If you go buy new actuator couplings from the dealer, you see that the lug has been redesigned to be much stronger.

Good luck.
 
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