1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Do I need a new crankshaft position sensor

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 06-07-2012, 04:12 PM
kvstuts2's Avatar
kvstuts2
kvstuts2 is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Do I need a new crankshaft position sensor

Ok this is my first post so here it goes,

I've searched multiple sites and cant seem to find a definitive answer to my question.

I have been having an issue with my 2003 Durango SXT 4.7L V8 that I have never experienced with any other vehicle that I've owned. It has several symptoms that may or may not be realted to the same thing. The biggest issue I have is the Durango will just shut off driving down the road doing approximately 50 mph. No warning, no check engine light, no sputtering, just all of the sudden there is no power from the engine. Everything electrical still works when this happens (radio, headlights etc.) The second symptom, which I believe is directly realted, is the Durango just shuts off randomly at complete stops. This issue is prevented if the transmission is switched to the neutral postion and the brake is applied and the engine is revved up to 1000 rpm or more. The third symptom is when trying to accelerate heavily (merging onto a highway for example) the engine will rev up but the entire veihicle will jump and shake until the accelerator is released and then pressed slowly to gain speed. The fourth and final symptom is the vehicle will not start in quick situations (i.e. running into the post office or gas station where the engine is only off for a short period of time). The engine cranks and tries to start but just will not turn over. Shifting to neutral and trying to start the engine with the transmission in neutral usually gets it to start on the first try. The oil level and oil pressure checks out ok, there is no vaccuum leak that I can find, fuel pressure is steady at 49psi and delivery seems to be ok, and the most frustrating thing is no check engine light comes on and no trouble codes are displayed (incl. the "no bus" display that some people have when the pcm fails). Without the trouble codes or check engine light I havent able to get any real guidance on what the issue can be. I believe I have narrowed the issue down to four things: crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, neutral safety switch or ignition sensor. A diagnostic test will cost me more than it would to purchase all of these parts and replace them myself. That being said, I dont want to buy all of these parts when only one needs replacing. Any advice on how to narrow down the cause of these issues and select which part to purchase would be greatly appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 06-07-2012, 05:19 PM
that_guy's Avatar
that_guy
that_guy is offline
Champion
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA or Columbia, SC
Posts: 4,098
Received 44 Likes on 43 Posts
Default

for the stalling at complete stops without pressing the gas it could be the IAC or a weak battery/bad battery connection. When you say it shuts off at 50mph are you on the gas still or is your foot off the gas?
 
  #3  
Old 06-07-2012, 05:29 PM
kvstuts2's Avatar
kvstuts2
kvstuts2 is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

That_Guy, I've had the battery and alterantor tested and both checked out also checked the connections and they were fine. As for the stalling, It's happened both ways. More often then not, I've been accelerating. This only just started happening two weeks ago. First time was when my wife was driving on the freeway with the kids on board (yikes) but she was able to get it on the shoulder and get it started again. It's only(lol) done it to me four times twice when I was getting on it, once coasting with cruise control on, once while braking. Its dangerous to drive with the whole shutting off business but I've found throwing it in neutral really fast and starting it back has worked so far.
 
  #4  
Old 06-07-2012, 06:58 PM
that_guy's Avatar
that_guy
that_guy is offline
Champion
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA or Columbia, SC
Posts: 4,098
Received 44 Likes on 43 Posts
Default

normally I'd say that sounds like it could be the ignition coil, but seeing that the 4.7 doesn't have one that wouldn't do you any good. The stalling at idle still could be the IAC, but as for it randomly dieing I'm kinda stumped. I don't really have any experience with the 4.7, but I'm sure someone else will throw some ideas up.
 
  #5  
Old 06-07-2012, 10:07 PM
shrpshtr325's Avatar
shrpshtr325
shrpshtr325 is offline
THE ULTI-MOD
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Union NJ
Posts: 19,793
Received 33 Likes on 31 Posts
Default

heres the thinga bout these trucks even if the battery tests fine it can be bad!!

if your battery is more than 4 years old its probably time for a new one anyway.

as for the shutting off when you let off the gas that sounds like classic IAC problems
 
  #6  
Old 06-07-2012, 10:13 PM
kvstuts2's Avatar
kvstuts2
kvstuts2 is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

So I think the IAC was the problem with the stalling and starting problem because i cleaned it and now its starting overtime i crank it and i left it idling for almost 10 minutes and stayed right over 500 rpm.
 
  #7  
Old 06-10-2012, 03:59 PM
fpt2001's Avatar
fpt2001
fpt2001 is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Had a similar probelm with my 1996 5.9L Ram1500. I went through 3 batteries within a year, assuming they were bad (luckily Advance Auto was nice and replaced free). One day the truck just shut off going about 40mph. After sitting for a day the truck started and ran just fine.

After having full diagnostics ran, my mechanic said it was something he had seen a few times. it was the distributor. When the electronics in the distributor go bad, it starts effecting other systems.

Had to replace the distributor, crank sensor, cam sensor, and plugs. So far no problems.
 
  #8  
Old 06-10-2012, 10:16 PM
shrpshtr325's Avatar
shrpshtr325
shrpshtr325 is offline
THE ULTI-MOD
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Union NJ
Posts: 19,793
Received 33 Likes on 31 Posts
Default

what electronics in the distributor? the distributor is a mechanical system
 
  #9  
Old 06-11-2012, 02:11 PM
fpt2001's Avatar
fpt2001
fpt2001 is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Camshaft sensor part of the Distributor assy

Camshaft sensor is part of the distributor assembly. Checked with the Dodge dealership and 'common' practice is to replace the entire distributor when this issue (engine shutting off) occurs. Cost for the entire assembly (reconditioned distributor ) was not much more than just the sensor.


I would have just replaced the sensor but I had several things done and got a decent price cut.
 
  #10  
Old 06-11-2012, 03:40 PM
tank99Dango's Avatar
tank99Dango
tank99Dango is offline
Professional
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Berne, Indiana
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I had the same issue with my old 95 Jeep Cherokee...ended up being the crankshaft sensor. I would be driving, 55 mph, and without warning, motor would just quit running, and like you said everything else would work just fine. I replaced the crank sensor, and never had another issue with it not starting. Crank sensors seem to be common in a lot of chrysler vehicles..
 


Quick Reply: Do I need a new crankshaft position sensor



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:43 AM.